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Old 02-08-2009, 06:22 PM
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Steel cylinder liner

I have a Kohler 14 HP single cylinder engine (all cast iron) that, although is low time, has the piston seized horribly because the fellow I got it from left the spark plug out and and left the engine in the rain. The bottom is sound but the bore is ruined, so bad in fact I doubt that the 60 over piston I found would be enough to clean it up so I am considering trying to sleeve it. I can set this thing up on my lathe to bore it out and cut a retaining notch in the top of the cylinder and then make a liner to fit. The question I have is that I have a piece of heavy 4130 seamless pipe of the right size with a 1/2" wall thickness that I could cut to make the liner but how would a 4130 steel cylinder work with cast iron rings? This thing is of course air cooled and will run much hotter than a water cooled engine but I am thinking that should not matter, any thoughts on this?

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Old 02-08-2009, 11:17 PM
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There may be some theory on this but this sounds like something I would do..I see no reason not to since you have the tools and time...may turn out to be better than what you started with as far as durability..

Crosley motors were built from welded/brazed sheet metal and worked fine..Only achilles heel those had was corrosion in the welds and since you are not welding yours That will not be an issue..

Good luck

I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
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Old 02-09-2009, 12:21 AM
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standard cast iron sleves are available from Perfect Circle and others. Probably check NAPA or any of the local motor rebuilders. It won't be for your motor but search by size. You may have to cut the length down a bit.

Typically you bore the block to a step in the bottom of the bore. I used to leave 1/8 step if possible sxometimes as little as 1/16. My guess on size would be about .001 to .002 under the sleeve size. We used to use CO2 or (heaven forbid) Freon 12 to freeze the sleeve. A block of wood and a big hammer would set the sleeve in maybe 2 whacks. Face off the sleeve flush with the block and bore to .003 undersize. Finish hone to final size.
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Old 02-09-2009, 07:18 AM
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I will check around today and see if a cast iron sleeve is available that I can use but if not then maybe the 4130 would be ok? Actually I was hopping to hear that the steel liner would be better but I was not at all sure how compatible it would be with the cast iron rings.

Leave a step at the bottom? That makes a heck of a lot more sense and I will definitly do it that way no matter which sleeve I use, I should have known that and why was I even thinking of trying to fit a lip at the top?
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Old 02-09-2009, 07:25 AM
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I agree that the cast iron sleeve is what you want. Many years ago when I was working at the local Chevrolet dealership during the infamous Vega engine problem years I had a Vega to work on. This Vega was super clean and well cared for, but the engine succumbed to the typical Vega dropped cylinder syndrome. As everyone knows the Vega engine had integral silicone impregnated aluminum cylinders. This guy was not intent on just replacing his block with a new fitted block of the same ilk. He made a deal with GM to give him the price of a new fitted block and apply it toward having his original block fitted with cast iron sleeves. It was all done by a local well respected automotive machinist, and was all documented by GM factory reps. I had the pleasure of installing this engine and it ran perfectly and the gentleman kept in touch for several years with updates on his Vega. As far as I am aware the Vega ran well for some time until as most Vega's do the body rusted away.

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Old 02-15-2009, 02:00 AM
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I'm pretty sure L.A. Sleeve can provide any sleeve for any motor ever produced....
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