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Old 05-11-2004, 06:39 AM
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Steering clearance problem.

my steering column cant go into place because it hits one of the primary tubes on my headers, my engine has an almost solid type motor mount, should i re-rought the steering with u- joints, or should i just ding in the header? i have to ding it in about a 1/4", will i lose any performance this way? its amazing, this fix could cost me a minimum of around $300 cnd or it could be free.


thanks

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Old 05-11-2004, 04:54 PM
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Try to move the steering column as much as you can....then, if that doesn't work...........Ding in the header...............
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Old 05-11-2004, 05:03 PM
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I'm with poncho. Anything that restricts flow, will decrease your power, and a kink will do so. How much it will effect, I don't really know, but I would try and stay away from that option as much as possible. With you just needing 1/4" of clearance, I would think you would be able to move it enough to get by with just a u-joint and some moving around.
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Old 05-11-2004, 05:16 PM
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the steering column is fixed in one spot and cannot move, my only other option is to get 3 universal joints to have steering go around the header, universal joints are around $90 each, plus i need the shaft and a hiem end, so its going to be really expensive.
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Old 05-11-2004, 06:08 PM
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Save up the coins and reroute, dents in headers are not good
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Old 05-11-2004, 06:51 PM
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ok, thanks, i guess another option is to cut the motor mounts out and move the engine over.
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Old 05-11-2004, 11:27 PM
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Would it be possible to cut the mounting plate off the header and reweld it back on tilting the whole header assembly inward the distance you need?

If your a fair hand at welding and can do it yourself it'll cost nothing and when done correctly no one will be able to tell. No dents in the header either.
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Old 05-12-2004, 12:33 AM
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If you do re-route the steering, I've got some Race outfits you could call to get the over-sized Heim, the shaft for about $30 CDN. As for the U-Joints, yes they're expensive, but you can get them out of older cars. I used 2 U-joints out of a Econoline van, $5 at the wrecker.

I just did this again on my circle track car last week, not for header clearance, but to get rid of the steering column.


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Old 05-12-2004, 06:04 AM
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thanks for the tips, im not a good enough welder to try and modify the header, im just gonna have to get the universal joints and re-rought it. i have some connections as to where i can get parts, my dad builds custom car for a living, he can get me all the stuff, but it still isnt cheap, but oh well.

thanks everyone for ur help
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Old 05-12-2004, 07:58 AM
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If I had $0.50 for every header tube that has had to be dinged over the past century, I would be able to buy Bill Gates! IMHO, unless you are trying to get into the 5s in the 1/4 mile, go ahead and carefully radius the header with a large socket and hammer. The 0.000,000,000,000,001second you lose on your time slip won't bother you at all. Much preferable to cobbling together a complicated (read more maintenance) steering system.

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Old 05-12-2004, 10:05 AM
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You'd need to ding a primary, you say? It may create a little bit of a restriction, but what happens with a restriction isn't purely that you lose horsepower... More precisely, it changes the shape of your power curve. Restrictions hurt the high end, where you find peak HP, but help the low end.. generally speaking..

But being a ding in the primary.. Well, just how tuned is this set of headers anyway? Engines run with unequal length primaries, and this wouldn't be so different..

Then again.. fluid dynamics is one class I passed by virtue of a grading curve~
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Old 05-12-2004, 10:57 AM
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Where are you getting $90?

Cheaper
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Old 05-12-2004, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by johnsongrass1
Where are you getting $90?

Cheaper
I think he said $90 Canadian.
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Old 05-12-2004, 01:49 PM
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Going off of what willy's said, we had to do the same thing to my bro's headers to get them into his truck. They were for a 64 Chevelle, and just needed about the same amount of clearance, so we dinged em to fit. The only thing is now we are running a rack and pinion so there's a dent for no reason. I couldn't tell you if it hurt the performance or not, since we never had them on without the dent. I have as well seen MANY headers that had to be "worked" to get in the tight clearances. If it's going to be this much of a hassle for you, sounds like a little dent is going to be the way to go.
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Old 05-12-2004, 02:23 PM
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And, to be honest, if you have a radical set of 4 tube, bottom exit headers, those usually are at least as low as the engine pan to clear x-members. After about a month of road wars, the bottom tubes will be flattened nearly in half from bouncing on road hazards! The little 1/4" dent won't even compare.

As far as 'header etiquette' goes, clearance dents are 100% acceptable.
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