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Old 12-14-2003, 11:33 AM
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Exclamation Steering install help

I am going to install a GM tilt column from Flamiong River with no ignition swith. I have not purchased that yet.

The fromt end is a Mustang II and all the linkage I have is the steering box on the front end with the splined shaft.

My question is, do you install the steering column first and build up the u joints and shaft to the steering box.....or build up from the steering box to the steering column? Also, how do you determine which length steering column to order?

Any help would be appreciated.

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Old 12-14-2003, 11:48 AM
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Hummmmmm, First of all get a measuring tape...........lol,j/k
sorry I couldn't help it you left yourself wide open.

Have some one help you, take a piece of tailpipe tubing or something like that long enough to simulate the column,,
hold it in place, and measure from the end to the steering sector, allowing for the correct angles for the u-joints. Mark the other end where you want the steering wheel.

Zipop you have the length.

Troy

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Old 12-14-2003, 11:55 AM
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thanks

Thanks for the tip, but do the shafts that you can order come in a form that can be cut to length....or do you have to order specific lengths?
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Old 12-14-2003, 12:11 PM
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You'll have to ask your supplier that, as I make my own.

Troy

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Old 12-14-2003, 03:57 PM
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The shafts come in either a specific length like 18", or 36". You can also have them cut to a length you specify. I used a broomstick and a piece of cardboard cut in the shape of my steering wheel to figure out how long a column to order. You also need to decide how much you want to stick out the other side of the firewall. The normal amount is usually 2" to 3". Once you have that nailed then you can figure the U-joints and shafts. I first had my column and drop in hand before I ordered the u-joints and shafts. If you look at my gallery you can see that I used wood dowels with the U-joint initially to figure the proper length before I cut my 36" SS double D shaft.

Vince
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Old 12-14-2003, 04:36 PM
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Good photo storyboard

Vince,

Thanks for the answer to my question. Your photos look almost like my setup. it appears that you used 1 spline to dd, 1 dd to ddand a dd to dd at the column?? Did you not have to use any support bearings? I do not see any in your photos.
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Old 12-15-2003, 05:20 AM
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Yes, I used a 26-9/16" spline U-joint on the Flaming River rack, then double D's the rest of the way. I did use a support bearing, look closely, it is temporarily held in place with a C clamp.

Watcha building?

Vince
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Old 12-15-2003, 06:03 AM
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1933 Plymouth street rod

I am building a 1933 Plymouth 5 window coupe street rod. Rescued it from rusting away beside a garage in the Texas Panhandle. I have some pictures in my gallery. It is a 350 bored .060 over.....I went a little overboard on it though...will be barely streetable engine -wise...has a big Crane Cam with rollers and an 800 Edelbrock. Trans is a Bowtie Overdrive Stage 3 2004R....B&M Quicksilver shifter....GM 12 bolt rear 4:11 gears...TRW flat top forged pistons with 6" rods and a Lunati billet performance crank

Hadn't built a rod in over 35 years, so I thought... WHY NOT!!! Lotsa cool stuff available now
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Old 12-15-2003, 07:31 AM
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This is my first rod in over 20 years. I built a 69 Camaro while the kids were small. Sold it to buy a new truck and raised the kids. Now it's time to play. My daughter lives in Dallas and we come through Palestine all the time on our way to visit her. Like to drop in on you some time and see the rod.

Vince
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Old 12-16-2003, 12:03 PM
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A thought

Hmmm. I just did one with a friend in his 41 P.U. Just a thought about it. Set the new unit in place and leave it loose until you have a seat. We put his in and then had to adjust it several times to get the right angle and distance for his fit. Used an extra link rod because of this. Flamming River units are very easy to do. Suspect that they all are.

hr41pearl
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Old 12-16-2003, 01:37 PM
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I made the mistake of not paying attention to were the horn button feed is located. I accidentally positioned it at 2 oclock. this is causing problems with the cancellation feature on the turn signals.

I think they say the horn button feed should be located a 10 oclock with the front wheels pointing forward.

Hope my mistake is not repeated. Now I have to remove my ujoint from the rack and rotate the steering wheel to the proper location and reconnect. Just a hassle.

Flaming River and Borgerson both have good catalogs and web sites packed with information.


Good luck.
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Old 12-17-2003, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by evltwin
I made the mistake of not paying attention to were the horn button feed is located. I accidentally positioned it at 2 oclock. this is causing problems with the cancellation feature on the turn signals.

First I heard of this, what brand column did you install. Do I have a problem I do not know about?

Vince
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Old 12-18-2003, 05:21 AM
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I have a rebuilt gm column.

A magazine article on installing columns pointed that out. Thats when I went to the garage and noticed my column. I sometimes have a problem with my signals.

Maybe someone on this board can confirm the location of the horn button with the wheels pointing straight ahead. Anyone?
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Old 12-18-2003, 05:52 AM
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Instructions that came with the Ididit Column I put in the 57 said to position it at 10 o'clock with the wheels pointed straight ahead.
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Old 12-18-2003, 07:47 PM
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I'm not sure if you checked out other steering shaft companies, but there's one in Torrington, CT called Borgeson Universal (www.borgeson.com). They make collapsable shafts so that you can adjust it to the right length between your steering box and column. Flaming River may do the same thing, but I used Borgeson for my jeep steering because they're about 40 minutes away. I'm pretty sure they do custom work as well if you need anything strange in there.
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