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Old 03-12-2010, 05:51 PM
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Steering knuckle hits header!!

I put a new floor in my 37 Ford. I had to put in a new hole in the floor for the column. Now I have great clearance between the dash and the tilt of the column. Wheel turned fine also. So now I look under the hood, and the knuckle that is on the column hits the header tube. There is already a small dent in this tube from someone before. Hey.. Free headers in good shape are still free.. My big question is those set screws.. Can I use Loktite on the thread of the small one with the nut, and not use the nut??, and with the long screw that goes in and threw the shaft.. Can I do the same with that one as well?? Then I could ad 1/8" extra to the ding and nothing would hit.. Thanks.. Al

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Old 03-12-2010, 06:01 PM
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Pictures..
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Old 03-12-2010, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by APalusky
I put a new floor in my 37 Ford. I had to put in a new hole in the floor for the column. Now I have great clearance between the dash and the tilt of the column. Wheel turned fine also. So now I look under the hood, and the knuckle that is on the column hits the header tube. There is already a small dent in this tube from someone before. Hey.. Free headers in good shape are still free.. My big question is those set screws.. Can I use Loktite on the thread of the small one with the nut, and not use the nut??, and with the long screw that goes in and threw the shaft.. Can I do the same with that one as well?? Then I could ad 1/8" extra to the ding and nothing would hit.. Thanks.. Al
No those nut need to stay loctite will not hold them You need to keep the bolt nut combo to hold this JMO, How much of the bolt is sticking out past the nut? you got to have it safe i shouldn't say this but you could make the dent alittle bigger but just enough that's all so it will clear . According to your pic it won't take much more But honestly i don't really like to push (SMASH / DENT) the tubes in but i have before but i mean just a little bit


Cole

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Old 03-12-2010, 06:05 PM
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I guess I could put them in and take another picture..
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Old 03-12-2010, 06:08 PM
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Please do


Cole
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Old 03-12-2010, 06:19 PM
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I put in one of the set screws and the nut. The one picture is kind of fuzzy. I had the camera almost on top of it..
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Old 03-12-2010, 06:28 PM
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Guess you could always countersink it. JMO


Cole
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Old 03-12-2010, 06:34 PM
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I thought you wrote up tht that I shouldn't counter sink the set screw and forgo the nuts??

One other thing I could do is to change the mount I have under the dash.. I could drill a hole about 1" under the one that my cross bolt goes threw.. That would push the knuckle down about 1" as well. Maybe even missing the header enough.. Not sure wht it would do for my clearance from the dash to the tilt though..
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Old 03-12-2010, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by APalusky
I thought you wrote up tht that I shouldn't counter sink the set screw and forgo the nuts??

One other thing I could do is to change the mount I have under the dash.. I could drill a hole about 1" under the one that my cross bolt goes threw.. That would push the knuckle down about 1" as well. Maybe even missing the header enough.. Not sure wht it would do for my clearance from the dash to the tilt though..
No i didn't say don't countersink i said you need to keep the nut, Loctite on just the screw is a But you could countersink it on both sides and buy the countersunk screw and a countersunk nut for the other side, But you could do a test fit change the mount like you said and if it don't work put it back where it was. JMO


Cole
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Old 03-12-2010, 07:27 PM
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It looks like it might be a good idea to extend the column shaft straight down a couple of inches to get the joint past the header altogether.

Andy
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Old 03-12-2010, 07:41 PM
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Here's how us Millwrights do shafts and couplings to insure they don't slip. This will work for you too.

Remove the bolts, get a drill bit that will go in the bolt hole without touching the threads. Use a drill and carefully drill (dimple) the shafts about 1/8" deep in all bolt holes. Buy some good quality (not China made) cup point setscrews the size and length you need. Notice I said cup point. Setscrews are cheap so buy different lengths and use the ones that will be flush when tightened. Buy high strength (RED) loctite. If you can find the kit, it comes with the cleaner and primer also. If not, use a good brake cleaner that leaves no residue. Clean the threads on both the knuckles and the setscrews and let dry. Apply loctite to the setscrews and install them. When using a cup point setscrew, it's a common practice to tighten them once, break them back loose and tighten them a final time. This helps the high ridge of the cup "eat" into the shafts even more. Let the loctite cure as directed. For even more security, you could "stake" the setscrews too but it won't be necessary. I guarantee that if used as directed, you cannot get those setscrews out with using heat from a torch to break the Loctite bond.
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Old 03-12-2010, 07:45 PM
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That is why I am going to drill a new hole in the mount under the dash. I will then have to lift the column up about 1". That should lower the front by 1" as well. If 1" doesn't do it.. I will go down another inch. I have about 3" before I hit the dash when the tilt is on. Al
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Old 03-12-2010, 07:50 PM
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S10 Racer.. I shake.. I would have to incert a marker to make a mark on the shaft first.
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Old 03-12-2010, 08:45 PM
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There need be nothing extending past the lock nut- you could shorten the set screw/bolt on its bottom to allow it to be flush w/the jam nut.

The additional clearance comes by a deeper dimple on the header, if needed.
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Old 03-13-2010, 06:10 AM
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See from the pictures.. The NUT hits the header.. Getting new this and that won't help if I have to keep the nut on.. That is what is hitting.. The set screws that are in there now are "cup" ends. I could also cut deeper into the toe board and lower the column down just enough. Then put in a patch panel behind the column??
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