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Steering shafts done, 34 ford

2K views 8 replies 3 participants last post by  sedanbob 
#1 · (Edited)
Just finished installing (mocking-up) the shafts in my Outlaw '34 Ford coupe.

I worked with 3/4" wood dowels first. When I took the dowels out, they measured 21 3/4". Flaming River sent a shaft in their basic kit that was 22” long. When the kit came, I thought for sure 22" wouldn't make it. Nope, they nailed it.

I went through the engine mount. The shafts took a lot less time than I thought, about 4 hours.
 

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#2 ·
I would say that congratulations are in order as that's a major building step for a home built street rod. I know that when I got to that point, big sense of relief - and that it fit the first time. I too used the 3/4" dowel method.

As a note, there is generally enough spline or DD on those shafts that +/- 1/4, 1/2" will work out just fine. If you had a need, of course you could trim it by that quarter inch or something within the limits of the spline.
 
#3 ·
Nicely done! I too used the wooden dowel method. Ran mine through the engine mount too. My steering column was closer to the engine head - no problem for steering, but when I hooked up the shifter (mine is in the column), the lever hit the head in park. I had to slide the column back about 3/8" so the shift lever would clear both the head and the firewall, which left one of my steering shafts 3/8" short! I had to buy another section of stainless DD shaft to re-gain that 3/8". They don't give those away. Congrats on completing this step!
 
#4 ·
Forgot to ask - did you recess-drill the shafts for the set screws on the u-joints? It's an important step, to improve the connection from a friction-fit to an interference-fit. Also, when you put it together for the last time, make sure you use some locktite too.
 
#5 ·
Oh, yes. The set screws need that recess. I'm pretty sure Outlaw runs the engine a bit forward, almost too far. I've got lots of space at the rear for the column shifter, I'd like a bit more at the front... I've got about 3/4" between the fan shroud and the A/C comp.

Fitting the hood (Rootleib) now. Using the Hagan dual hinge system. This will take a while no matter who's you use.
 
#7 ·
Test patience..... I had to go do something else after a while... Back at it and now I need to wait for 2 solid lines for the condenser to see where I can put some brackets.

Funny, steel stays where you put it with a little bending. Fiberglass bounces back and is more of an exercise in sculpting.

I get a kick out people when they hear what I'm building and say "kit car". Yea..... kit car. Right. I tell them I'm going to have over 40 suppliers and spend $50K+, power windows, P/S, P/B, A/C, remote door poppers and they start to get it. These ain't no bathtub on a VW chassis anymore.
 
#9 ·
My response to the 'kit car' question is "No, it didn't come in a big crate with an instruction book." If I explain that I bought a frame from one place, body from another, steering column from another, and so on, and then tell them about having to customize practically every part on the car, they start to understand.
 
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