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Old 05-16-2002, 12:12 AM
dinger's Avatar
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I've been checking out mustang ll suspension setup for my 36 ford coupe, heidts and fatman so far, aaiieee, way expensive. $1629 for the package i'd like to have, are these the prices i'm going to have to expect to pay for something like this? alternatives? this is the last car i'm going to build, it will be a keeper so i want it right, but i'll kick myself in the boootocks (so will my wife) if i find something a lot less expensive out there. any ideas? the 1629 includes crossmember, drum to drum, rack and pinion.

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Old 05-16-2002, 05:01 AM
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Dinger...if its the last car you build the money will be well spent.The front suspension and brakes are the diff in a car you can take on a 2 month vacation and drive it anywere in the country(that means the wife can also drive it with out a dive bomber)than some 500-1000 buck bargin basement deal that will sit in the garage or only be drivable to the local cruze nite .Even at 1629 your still a little on the cheap side. The cars/trucks i have built(yep done a lot of good handling clips,but it kills resale and time= money to get one correct)its gets closer to 2000 sometimes a bit more.But after driving one the person will never do the salvage yard deal again.I know this is supposed to be a low buck build it yourself site,but money on that end of the car will never be wasted. Just ask how many guys here have had to change brakes ..change racks...fix crooked clips..suffer with ill handling cars..not go to a rod run cause it would flat kill em to drive that far.Its just money well spent.Hey a junk yard motor can always be changed in a motel parkin lot(not something i want to do anymore LOL) and all the fancy billet in the world wont make it drivable. Go for the steel wheels and not so fancy interior.Or dont buy those NOS rear fenders.LOL I think Bob at progressive has one of your cars on line being built www.progressiveautomotive.com maybe get some ideas. I will also preach to you about my pet peaves on these 11 inch brakes...non metric calipers(unless there the vette ones)...slow rack or manual(3 1/2 turns or more)....no strut rods on the lower a-frames and a good welder to install it. no bird sh**t welds or flux wire welds on your frontend stuff. good idea to tack and pay to have it Tigged if its in the budget(mig is fine also,leave the arc welder un plugged for this job unless you are one good welder) Hope this helps a little. There is alot more to it after the purchase as i have never seen a kit bolt or weld right in ..it takes some adjustment on all of them to get em correct..as in alinment before totally welding. Oh and stay away from the fat stuff..in my opinion it nothing but problems as of this post. D:
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Old 05-16-2002, 06:44 AM
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Phat is right, don't cheap out on steering and brakes. Those are the most important part of any car. If it doses not steer, handle, and stop good, what have you got? Cut corners on other stuff and do this part right.
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Old 05-16-2002, 07:15 AM
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thanks, guys, you just confirmed what i figured would happen. my wife and i were discussing this before she left for work this morning, our vette is going on the market, can't have everything, i guess. i'm not going to take any shortcuts, i just don't have the knowledge of what's on the market, i'm not afraid to ask. there's a frame and suspension guy here in town that will do the install work for $450, he's built a lot of rods, my welding skills are rusty at best, plus i don't have the equipment or the experience to tackle this job. this is a car i want to be able to jump into and go anywhere, it'll be a driver. and i know we're supposed to promote do-it-yourself stuff, but i'm not going to invest 15,000 into a car and have it go sideways down the road. i can do the bodywork, windows, motor and trans, the rest is beyond my capabilities. there is a price for peace of mind and assurance that your ride will be a safe one. thanks.
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