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Old 08-25-2007, 02:11 PM
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still fighting with street avenger carb

Its me again, back for more carb help. 327 ci. .030 over in my nova.Put on 670 street avenger and rejetted to 68 primaries 76 secondaries just to be able to drive car.hooked up vacuum gauge on full vacuum port of carb and adjusted air fuel screws and got about 12 max on gauge.fuel level seems to be fine,looked down in carb and worked throttle by hand and there nice stream of fuel. Basic timing is 15 deg.Problem is still,it will idle about 1000 rpm but if you lower it much below 1000 it wants to idle rough or stall,and I have to give it a lot of gas when letting out on clutch from dead stop to get it rolling,once rolling it is fine and has real good pull when you get on it.Should I go with larger primary jets again or does someone have more tuning tips.My old carb was a holley 1850 with 62 jets,would idle at 700 rpm all day, and barly had to give it gas to get rolling. HELP!!!

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Old 08-25-2007, 02:15 PM
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Make sure you're not pulling air through the secondary side... cover the secondaries with a rag and see if the idle improves.
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Old 08-25-2007, 02:22 PM
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When you look in the top of carb is it black inside? you should be able to get the RPM around 800 or a little less.You can pull the plugs out after you have run it to see if the plugs or wet .You may be a little big on the carb.If the plugs or wet you are dumping to much gas.Hope this helps. make sure there is no vacuum leak .
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Old 08-25-2007, 02:25 PM
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How many turns out are the front and back idle screws?
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Old 08-25-2007, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEW INTERIORS
When you look in the top of carb is it black inside? you should be able to get the RPM around 800 or a little less.You can pull the plugs out after you have run it to see if the plugs or wet .You may be a little big on the carb.If the plugs or wet you are dumping to much gas.Hope this helps. make sure there is no vacuum leak .

If you look in top of carb it is still clean as new,I pulled the plugs the last time I drove it and they looked fine not wet.Holley said this carb is rated for 300 to 400 horse ,my motor is a mild build 327 .030 over, 501-294 cam.steel crank ,flat top pistons, mallory hei, roller rockers ,stud girdles,RPM performer intake and this carb has some great pulling power when driving,the only hoses hooked up to carb is pcv valve,and vacuum advance hooked to full vacuum port and are new hoses.
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Old 08-25-2007, 03:39 PM
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What about your brake booster,Do you have one ,If so take in pinch the hose with a pair of needle nose,wile running ,Sometimes a bad booster will lose a vacuum.It sounds like the carb should work .
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Old 08-25-2007, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NEW INTERIORS
What about your brake booster,Do you have one ,If so take in pinch the hose with a pair of needle nose,wile running ,Sometimes a bad booster will lose a vacuum.It sounds like the carb should work .


No I dont have a brake booster, some one said it may be sucking air through secondaries.when you look down inside carb should the secondaries be completly closed do you know?
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Old 08-25-2007, 09:17 PM
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I don't know right off hand,But they are open very little.
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Old 08-26-2007, 06:24 AM
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Street Avenger

I don't think the secondaries should be opened at all.
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Old 08-26-2007, 06:36 AM
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did this happen after the jet change?
if so you got the wrong gaskets on the metering block.
reason i say this is I troubleshot the same problem for a friend of mine and found the idle circuit passages partially blocked by the gasket.
heres holley tech service site:
http://www.holley.com/TechService/
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Old 08-26-2007, 08:46 AM
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You should be able to get the same idle with the 770 as you had with the 600. Where are your air/fuel mixture screws set at now? With that combination I'd think you'd end up at about 3/4-1 turn out on the screws with about 14-16 degrees of initial timing+vacume advance for a 294 cam. Your throttle blades should be almost closed on the secondary side-the stop is usually set right at the factory so they are just supported enough not to stick in the bore. The primary throttle blades should be about 1-1.25 turns from fully closed on most holleys. It sounds like you've got too much throttle opening at idle, a rich a/fuel mixture, or not enough timing-or a combination of all three. The first thing to tune is the idle circuit cause there's no sense in going any further if you're killing spark plugs. With a 770 on a 327 you're going to be cruizing on the idle circuit most of the time so it's really important to get it right-expect better mileage than the 600 if you get the tune right and keep your foot out of the pedal. Also make sure the idle air bleeds are open-with the engine running cover them with your finger and see if the idle changes-if not they are plugged with machining chips or something else. Or you've got the wrong gaskets in like previously mentioned- the avenger comes with reusable gaskets though so I'm betting they haven't been changed. Don't change main jetting or powervalve size untill you have the idle sorted out because these have no effect on idle quality. What size pump shooter is on there-28? I've found my Son's 327 likes a smaller shooter-25.
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Old 08-27-2007, 05:56 PM
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Try this. I had the same issue om my 327, with rpm performer. Factory secondary setting is very close. You need to have less than .020 exposure of the transfer slot on the primary side. You need to balance the pri. and sec. so they are open an equal amount. Turn idle screw until transfer slot looks square. That will get you real close to roughly .015. Then hold carb up over your head at a light source and examine the light gap you'll see around the throttle blades. You want equal light around the pri. and sec. throttle blades, keeping the pri. side against idle screw, and sec. in the "closed" position. If you have electric choke, make sure it stays off the high idle cam. If the secondaries are open to much at idle, the idle screw will be basically useless. I had to back out my sec. screw half turn from factory setting. I also have same jetting, 68, 76, although I'm still lean on sec. side. Upon various removal and reinstall sessions with your carb, you'll get it. If you can set your idle speed with a 1/4 turn or less, you are good to go. Make sure to readjust idle mixture.
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Old 08-27-2007, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vetteman
Try this. I had the same issue om my 327, with rpm performer. Factory secondary setting is very close. You need to have less than .020 exposure of the transfer slot on the primary side. You need to balance the pri. and sec. so they are open an equal amount. Turn idle screw until transfer slot looks square. That will get you real close to roughly .015. Then hold carb up over your head at a light source and examine the light gap you'll see around the throttle blades. You want equal light around the pri. and sec. throttle blades, keeping the pri. side against idle screw, and sec. in the "closed" position. If you have electric choke, make sure it stays off the high idle cam. If the secondaries are open to much at idle, the idle screw will be basically useless. I had to back out my sec. screw half turn from factory setting. I also have same jetting, 68, 76, although I'm still lean on sec. side. Upon various removal and reinstall sessions with your carb, you'll get it. If you can set your idle speed with a 1/4 turn or less, you are good to go. Make sure to readjust idle mixture.

Hi, would it be easiest to take off carb and hold up by light just to see if blades are about the same primary to secondary, before any adjustments are done?
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Old 08-27-2007, 07:01 PM
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Yes, you have to pull carb. I guess I should have clarified that. The first thing you have to do is verify no more than .020 of the transfer slot on the primary side is exposed. Get that set first. Then do the light test, and adjust the sec. if needed to match the light visible on the pri. side. When you hold the carb up to the light, you'll be looking at the bottom of the carb. Take your time, and you'll see by the light around the throttle blade, you can set it pretty accurately balanced.
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Old 08-27-2007, 07:38 PM
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?

Shouldn't the distributor be hooked up to timed spark advance? I had allot of trouble with my 670 spent $500 at a dyno place and eventually spent $300 at a carb shop (SMI) in California. I had about the same cam you have and used 70/81 a pink pump cam with a .45 squirter. I now use a 750vac works fine. Good luck
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