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Old 09-29-2008, 06:17 PM
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still having running issues

I have a 79 T-Bird with a 351M and Gremlins
I can't keep spark, I can be driving it and it will cut out, or I go to leave and it won't start no spark, but then it will work suddenly.
Replaced the coil, helped for a bit. Replaced my old distributor helped for a bit. ignition module yep worked for a bit, ignition switch is about 10 years old and I have put about 10,000 miles on the car in that time.

That was a copy of an old post I had on this problem. After looking into this further. Here is what I have found. I have spark in every cylinder on the driver side and none on the pass side...... checked it with another plug one wire at a time. FIGURE THAT OUT, swapped distributors again also.

I have no emissions on this hot rod, It will not even idle now for obvious reasons no can I put her in gear for the same reasons. Why would I lose one side and what can I check next? Keep in mind that this is also on a cold engine now while I have tested for spark this past time.

Thanks in advance,
Chris

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Last edited by cdiedrick; 09-29-2008 at 10:16 PM.
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Old 09-29-2008, 08:38 PM
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Although it didn't lose JUST ONE BANK, I did have similar occurence with a mid-70's Lincoln TownCar that I owned previously. Would drive along fine for 15-20 min's then die and have no spark to refire, let it sit 20-30 min's and would fire right up like nothing ever happened. Turned out to be that underhood temps would cause a "thermal break" or "thermal open" on the circuit board in the DuraSpark control box. I later found out that this was a VERY COMMON PROBLEM on some years of the DuraSpark control boxes. I replaced with aftermarket part, (Carquest maybe?), and it cured it. Your situation sounds a bit odd to lose only 1 bank, but without knowing how they route/path that printed circuitry on the board it's still one POSSIBLE scenario. Hope you find the resolution soon. -Jim.
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Old 09-29-2008, 09:13 PM
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I don`t know if this applies to fords, but GM`s are known to do this with HEI`s when it`s not getting a full 12 volt signal. instead of dropping one bank, it drops cylinders. I remember checking cylinder number 1, it would fire every 4th revolution of the spark cycle, when I discovered it was only getting 9 volts I rewired it to a 12 volt source and the problem was over.
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Old 09-30-2008, 10:28 PM
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I did put a new ground strap on, did not solve the problem. Should I get a new voltage regulator or alternator???? i get that from these responses. Any other ideas as I am totally stumped here????

HELP SOS
Chris
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Old 09-30-2008, 10:41 PM
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That era of Ford products used DuraSpark (or was it DuraSpark II, I don't recall now) ignition systems that had a "control box". Unless your system has been redone to the point where you are not utilizing it any longer, your's should have it. Can you verify if yes or no? If yes-still using it, then I'd have real suspicion of that control box, for the reasons stated in my prior reply. That was a very common component to fail and would cause strange symptoms. If I recall correctly it mounted on the fenderwell, was "cast/potmetal looking" in appearance (with epoxy bottom that was only seen when removed), and was "in-line" in the primary wiring going to the distributor. Don't know if this is your problem or not, but it certainly was on many of them. -Jim
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Old 10-01-2008, 09:42 PM
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Jim,
You are right my system does have duraspark II in it. However, I did replace it in June when this problem really started. I have also thought that I may have bought a faulty box so I saved the old one. I swapped them in the other night, and same problem. I am stumped, thanks for the input though
Chris
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Old 10-01-2008, 10:15 PM
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With as many components in the primary ignition system already swapped-out, I would be inclined to start looking into the wiring harnesses that link them together. Can't think of anything else to suggest to you at this point, as that's certainly a strange behavior, (losing only 1 bank). I would suggest to pay special attention to the wiring in/out of that DuraSpark control unit. Beyond that we can only hope that others who see this thread might have some additional input to offer/suggestions of what to check. I'd say if you can get it started to try wiggling those harnesses and see if you can MAKE it die. And check connectors, especially multi-blade type, for perhaps one that might be corroding badly. -That's all I can offer as the last one of those era Fords I'd worked on was at least 15 years ago or more. You might try finding a schematic diagram for your system in an older MOTORS or CHILTONS manual and see what it may hold for you. Good luck and when you find the cause, please post it. -Jim
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