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Old 09-13-2010, 07:24 AM
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still no spark

double checked the points and condenser like I said before brand new still took the conections off filed them a little, gap is good, still no spark. it has to be something small Im overlooking. but other than starting over don't know what else to do.

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Old 09-13-2010, 07:48 AM
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What is the primary coil resistance across the "+" and "-" terminals of your coil, w/the wires removed?

What side of the coil is going to the distributor?

Have you tested the resistance of the secondary coil wire that runs from the center coil 'tower' terminal to the distributor cap center terminal? Does the rotor physically match up to the cap to allow current to jump across the terminals? Have you verified the rotor phasing is close enough to allow spark?

Is one side of the points (that is screwed to the points plate) grounded to the "+" side of the battery?

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well by following the tests given on the "troubleshooting ignition" post someone suggested earlier, my points are not closing. the light dims but does not flash on and off. it dims and gets bright with the turning rythm of the starter.
Did the new points change the above?
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Old 09-13-2010, 07:49 AM
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have u ck'd for power ???

the points are the grounding end.. with ign on u should have around 12v on coil.. depending on the ballast resisitor size. could be a bad ign sw, ballast resistor.. but u need to start at the points and go backward.. the older GM coils have built in resistance so not ballast is needed... so what u work'n on..??
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Old 09-13-2010, 08:08 AM
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Working On 47 Nash 6 V 6 Cyl, Pos Ground Old Coil Has Internal Resistence New Coil Say's No External Resister Needed So Assuming It Has Internal Resistance As Well. All That Stuff Is New Put On New Ignition, Coil, Points, Condenser, Redid All The Wiring, Plugs And Wires Are Like New. New Points Open Just Wasn't Able To See Them And Crank Car Over Alone. Horn, Lights, Defro, All Work, Took A M Turn Signals Off Broke The O.d. Kickdown Switch, Still Not Able To Find An Exact Match To Mine But Shouldn't Have Anything To Do With No Spark. I'm Not A Pro, But Think It's Something Small That I Am Just Overlooking Or To Frustrated Looking To Hard To See It. At All Points Of The New Coil It Reads On The Multi Reader. Old Coil Was Not Reading Resistance, New Coil Is A Little Different Than The Old One It Has A Post On Each Side Of Distributor Cap Wire, Old One Only Had One On Top And On On Bottom That Was Connected To The Ignition Switch. Positive I Have It Hooked Up Right, Had Dad Over Yesterday He Said Looks Right So Don't Know What Else It Could Be.
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Old 09-13-2010, 09:02 AM
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Old 09-13-2010, 10:55 AM
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I wonder why you do not state values- like resistance in ohms- for the primary coil resistance, and say what the connections are from the coil to the distributor, instead of saying "Positive I Have It Hooked Up Right".

I would have you checking the secondary coil to distributor cap wire for conductivity. It will have resistance (varies w/type and application), but shouldn't be infinite.

If you run a jumper from the battery "-" to the coil "-" terminal and then spin the engine over, you should get spark. The "+" side of the coil connects to the distributor points/condenser.

The primary resistance of the coil (measuring across the "+" and "-" terminals) will be around 3Ω if it is made to work w/o a resistor.

Measuring from the center high tension coil tower (be sure that the probe is touching the metal) to either the "+" or "-" terminal should be a high resistance- somewhere around 50KΩ- but this will be different depending on the application. But it WILL be high.
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Old 09-13-2010, 11:59 AM
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spepin.. with all this said....

do u have voltage at the coil when ign is turned on??????? if u do then power it up, remove the cap and hold the coil wire that goes from the coil to cap close to ground... with finger tip open and close point by had while watching for spark off the coil wire.. if u get it then the problem is in the dist cap or rotor... bill
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Old 09-13-2010, 12:45 PM
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from your description of the coil it is a 12 volt , 6volt coils do not use resistors.As stated above see if you have voltage to the battery side of the coil , if yes I would guess you installed the stud that goes through the side of the distributer and the insulating washers incorrectly. To prove this put a peace of paper [match pack ]between point contacts and remove the wire from the coil ,then take a meter one end connected to ground and the other end to the wire that you disconnected from the coil , it should read open if not something between the match pack and the end of the wire is shorted to ground . hope I've helped some.
Just reread your post you said you did something with the OD kick down switch . An OD kick down switch grounds out the ignition momentarily so the engine stumbles and unloads the transmission so it can down shift . So if incorrectly wired it could ground out the ignition .

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Old 09-13-2010, 07:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by justold
from your description of the coil it is a 12 volt , 6volt coils do not use resistors.
I agree. Where did you get the coil you are using? What is the part number - Maybe we could help confirm whether it's right or not. Are you sure it's getting power?

What you want is a 6 volt universal coil (and it needs to have power). Most of the ones I buy are made by Standard Ignition (part number UC-14 or UC-14X). Any decent auto parts store should be able to work with that number and cross it to whatever line of ignition products they carry. Of course the coil needs to have power, did you check that?

Hope this helps....

BTW, Do you have power to the coil?
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Old 09-13-2010, 07:22 PM
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O the points themselves.

Just a thought, where the wires connect to the points, is the spring still insulated from the bracket screws?
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Old 09-14-2010, 07:53 AM
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thanks

Thanks for all the suggestions, I will try them all,
First I do not type acctual numbers (readings) because I'm not on the computer when I'm working on the car and I try everything people suggest can't remember all the numbers. The coil says on the side in white writing 6 volt ignition coil no external resistor needed. it came in a green box, don't have the box in the house right now so can't tell you who made it(brand) The ignition switch came in a red box brand standard just says us11 a7g, not sure if it matters that it does not look anything like the origanal niether does the coil.
The od kick down switch is just hanging, first I lost one of the tiny screws, then trying to get one of the other screws off I broke the whole front plate off. so I didn't want to mess with it anymore untill I could find a replacement. and of course I can not find one that looks exactly the same.
I was always told never to hold a plug wire while trying to start the car, besides 95% of the time I do not have help it's just me. I also did not change the two wires that are in or under the gas tank, I do not have the space to drop it at this point in time.
While I looked and looked no one has what my coil should read, I have three different web pages that give ranges, but also say may vary with car check manufacture guidlines. Useally when I test the pos and neg side of coil they read 6.4 v when I test the middle( where plug hooks to distrib.) it reads about 3.2 v. last time I had help I was the one pressing the start button ( guess thats the girls place) so could not see for my self if the points move enough, I was just told they were. when I toughed the screw to take condenser off I did get a spark. in a hurry didn't want to take the minute to unhook battery. lesson learned!
Thanks for all the help anyway.
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Old 09-14-2010, 12:00 PM
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Ok try this. Disconnect the distributor from the coil. Pull the coil wire on the distributor end and position it 1/8" from the engine block. Take a jumper lead from the side of the coil you removed the distributor wire from. Touch it to the block for a second then pull it. See if the coil wire sparks'
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Old 09-14-2010, 02:46 PM
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spepin, it is mandatory that the spark plug be grounded, for it to spark outside of the engine- just so we're clear on that point.

You can accomplish this by running a ground strap/clamp from the plug to the battery "+" terminal, or by securing the plug against the iron of the engine- but the connection to ground must be a GOOD one.

G'luck.
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Old 09-14-2010, 11:32 PM
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Umm, probably silly, but I've done it myself a few times. You do have the rotor installed in the dis?
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