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Old 03-29-2012, 05:14 PM
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sbchevfreak sbchevfreak is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EagleMark
I'd have to agree that TBI in tank pumps last a long time! Mine has 150K on it and no issues, but I also never run below 1/4 tank to keep pump in fluid.

The one's I have seen that do fail without humans doing something to make them fail have been from the 'Sock" filter mounted on bottom of pump. The sock starts to disenagrate letting not only dirt and debree through but also the fibers from the sock!

Although the sock is enough to keep debree from hurting the pump I don't ever recall a vehicle without a fuel filter? The injectors need a much finer cleaning and EFI filters are metal because of pressure but also a lower micron filter spec then a carb filter.

This is more previlent on newer cars with plastic tanks that flex a little when full to empty. You'll slao notice on these non steel tanks that fuel pump assembly is spring loaded to push fuel pump to bottom of tank. It is a great design but the movment helps desinagrate the sock. Newer socks of any quality are better material for flex then older ones I have seen.

These newer pumps are also great for conversions as they have a built in baffle tank. Return fuel is dumped in bucket which is part of the assembly to avoid tank slush when low and the need for baffles in tank.

There's a great writup on how to install these newer bucket type in tank fuel pumps I'm sure the HotRodders will like at:
http://www.gearhead-efi.com/gm-ecm-p...onversion.html

This is true, but newer pump modules have a "dual" sock setup, with an external to the unit sock, as well as one inside the module. Unfortuately, the manufacturers seem tho think the modules are worth 8-10 times what the pump costs. Case in point, I did a pump "repair" on a 2000 Town & Country. The module was $700. The pump and o ring kit - $80. 10 minutes to disassemble the module, and put in just the pump, o rings and strainers, saved my customer $680.
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