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Old 02-13-2005, 12:50 PM
Old Man Draggin'
 
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Stock intake vs. modern Edelbrock

I have acquired a matching #s intake manifold and carb for my '63 Impala SS 327 300HP. I currently have an Edelbrock Performer RPM manifold w/ Thunder AVS 650 cfm carb per Edelbrock recommendation. The engine runs great.

I would like to go back to original, but hate to lose too much performance. The 300 stock manifold is dual plane like the Perfomer RPM and looks similar.

I have acquired an NOS Carter kit for the carb and the '63 factory manual has complete specs, so I am confident I can get the carb to work as well as the Edelbrock.

My main question mark is the manifold. I will say the engine has a bigger than stock cam, original 461 double hump heads and long tube headers. I do not race, only show off, so performance is only perceived.

If anyone has experience with this type of situation, I would appreciate your input.

Thanks in advance, Pete.

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Old 02-13-2005, 01:16 PM
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stock vs aftermarket intake

You will lose some HP going back to the stock intake and carburetor, probably in the realm of 15-18 HP at peak RPM, however for plain WOW effect, to look under the hood and see origional equipment on the engine, especially for bragging about, you just cant beat it.
While you and your friends and associates both know that the Edelbrock and after market carb do produce more peak hp, having rare parts under your hood, to my opinion, does have a greater impact. Face it, anyone with $400 can drop an aftermarket intake and carb on their trusty steed, but it takes some scrounging and effort to come up with origional Hi-Po factory parts, especially when production numbers coinside with those on your vehicle. IE, 63- 300 HP 327 4bbl intake on your 63-327 Impala.
There is also the fact that your stock 4 bbl intake and carb did procuse a lot of heartstopping get up and go in their time. That isnt a slouch intake setup.
As it goes, many of those factory iron intakes wound up on street rods over the years and have been popular because they did breath well and were dirt cheap at the local bone yard.
This will also enhance the value of your vehicle, should you desire to oneday sell it.
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Old 02-13-2005, 01:26 PM
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You already have headers. Those weren't original. Why change the induction. Unless you are going to make everything stock, what is the difference?

A friend of mine used to paint his Edelbrock intakes. They look stock that way. It is hard to tell the difference. Use the stock aircleaner. You won't be able to see the carb anyway.

I painted my Sportsman II heads. They look just like the stock heads now. Nobody would know the difference unless I told them.
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Old 02-13-2005, 01:58 PM
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Thanks Max and lluciano77 for your quick replies. lluciano77 brings up another point I am considering. Stock exhaust manifolds, doing away with the headers.

I have acquired a driver's side manifold w/ the proper casting #. I am shopping for the passenger side.

I would ask the same question about the exhaust. The original 300HP manifolds are the 2 1/2" outlets so they are high performance manifolds.

My headers go into 3" pipe through turbo mufflers necking down to 2 1/2" out the back. From threads I have read, including one post by Max, this is probably to big for my engine anyway.

If I went back to the stock exhaust manifolds with 2 1/2" head pipes, through Flowmasters, 2 1/2 or 2 1/4 out the back, how much would that hurt me?

From threads I have read, it would probably help my bottom end, which is better for the WOW factor anyway.

Maybe this is combining two threads into one, but it will help me make a couple of decisions I have been stewing over.

Being the age I am, I just cant get away from the desire to have it look original.

Thanks again for your input. Pete.
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Old 02-13-2005, 02:37 PM
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I would stay with the 2.5" exhausts.
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Old 02-13-2005, 07:47 PM
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exhaust

Although I personally feel that 2.5 duals are a little large for a 327, I wouldnt change them just to drop down 1/4 inch.
one thing you might consider is taking a set of collector cones that neck down from 3 to 2 inch, cut them off at 2 1/4 inch diameter and then using a double gasket flange, put them inside your exhaust pipes where they connect to your collectors. This will do one thing, prevent reversion in your exhaust, improving your lower end, without sacreficing your upper end.
Either way you go, whether you run stock manifolds , or headers, be sure to run an H or X pipe connector between the two exhaust systems. This will greatly inhance your lover end and will not affect your top end in any way.
Not being all that familiar with the 63 Chevy, did it come with the ram horn exhuast manifolds? If so or you can find a set from a 63 Vette, you will have one of the superior cast exhaust manifolds ever made for an american car, short of the ungodly heavy cast headers Ford made for the FE block in the early and mid 60's.
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Old 02-13-2005, 08:15 PM
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Max, thanks again for the quick reply. I assume the first paragraph pertains to headers, if I keep them. I saw a reference to this cone in a thread you replied in when I was searching.

Actually, the 327 300 had the 2 1/2" ram's horn manifold even in the passenger car. I have researched this and have the exact casting #s for both sides of my non AC car. I have purchased an NOS GM manifold for the driver's side and am searching for one for the passenger side. They are correct for both Corvette and passenger.

From the research I have done so far, it seems that the head pipes were 2 1/2 back to the stock mufflers and 2" tailpipes.
I think this would probably still give me plenty of power, especially with Flowmasters.

As far as the H or X pipe, my header setup does not have it, but I will definitely add it if I keep them or put one in the new system if I change over.

Thanks for your input, as I have read a lot of your posts and they are all concise and knowledgeable. Pete.
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Old 02-13-2005, 08:32 PM
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Thank you

If I remember correctly, the header pipe on ramhorns necked down to 2 inch just below the bolt flange on the manifold. That being the case, if you are going to hang a complete new exhaust, I would opt to run the 2 inch back to your current muffler and exhaust system, and neck them up to fit your mufflers, running the 2.5" from there on back. The X pipe units are reportedly capable of a couple more horses than an H pipe, however, X-pipes run in the neighborhood of $50 and up, just for that short section, and it requires buiding the exhaust to and from it, making for more bends. It would be simpler to have a simple H-pipe put in the system, usually either just under or behind the transmission. I would also have this made in two pieces with a slip together junction between the two pipes coming from your exhaust and then clamp them together. The reason being, if you weld them, and later have to do any tranny work , then you can split the two exhaust systems and hang them over to the sides vs having to completely remove it.
Myself, I would sacrefice that 2-5 extra horses gained with the X-pipe for the utility of having better access to the bottom of the car, as well as saving about $40 in the process.
But thats my feelings on it.
Of a note, running the larger exhaust from the mufflers back will not harm your lower end power and may in fact enhanse your top end to some degree, and the larger pipes will give your exhaust a deeper tone, as well.

BTW, you on the Missouri side or the Kansas side of KC?
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Old 02-13-2005, 08:48 PM
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Max, I live on the Mo side, actually, Independence, Harry Truman's home town.

I am just getting back into hotrodding after nearly forty years away. I assume when you refer to H pipes and X pipes, you mean just crossover pipes between the duals. As I remember, most factory duals had a crossover pipe back then. I have assumed that this is what it is. If not let me know. Pete.
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Old 02-13-2005, 09:08 PM
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KCMO

An old shipmate of mine lives in Liberty, Mo, and we have a ships reunion every year at his place. Year before last, we went to the Truman home, then to his library and museum.
Im origionally from Hannibal, myself.

Yes, the H pipe and X pipe are crossover pipes, or balance tubes as used to call them years ago.

Last edited by Max Keith; 02-13-2005 at 09:08 PM.
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Old 02-14-2005, 04:12 AM
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Easy answer for better street performance with all original parts...swap to higher rear gears if your not happy with the WOW!
That's how the OEM's (cheated?) did it on alot of cars.

If all of the car is stock, interior, wheels, etc. it makes sense. Otherwise it may look? Weird? Out of place?
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Old 02-14-2005, 12:08 PM
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Gearing

I argree with red65, a good set of deep 3: something gears will give you a lot of tireburning value. Say some where in the neighborhood of 3.73- 3.90:1. These will give you a lot of go, and wont completely destroy your ability to run on the highway at a decent speed.
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