Stock Mustang II Lower control arms on a '56 f100.. - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Suspension - Brakes - Steering
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 12-01-2011, 08:11 PM
Hwyhogg's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Electrolytic rust removal
Last journal entry: 2.75 in..3.50 posi out
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Spring Hill, Florida
Posts: 493
Wiki Edits: 6

Thanks: 1
Thanked 6 Times in 4 Posts
Stock Mustang II Lower control arms on a '56 f100..

Hi all,
Just a post to share about my '56 Ford Panel truck suspension. It has a Fatman Fabrications, (good company to me btw), weld in cross member, shock hats and gussets. I used the stock upper and lower control arms and the strut rod. I used 11" Granada rotors. The outer tip ~1/8 to 1/4" was scraping a grove into my rotor. This was just from many pushings in and out of garage to work on. Not a big deal, took about 5 minutes per side with the 4" angle grinder. Most probably use the after market arms without the strut rods anyway, but in case you plan on using stock style lower arms, this might be an issue. No big revelations, but was something I didn't know beforehand...I included a couple of pics of the area marked with a white pencil...hope someone finds it useful BTW, the last pic is AFTER the grinding.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Dec 1, 2011 001.JPG
Views:	191
Size:	523.8 KB
ID:	60388   Click image for larger version

Name:	Dec 1, 2011 002.JPG
Views:	142
Size:	1.05 MB
ID:	60389   Click image for larger version

Name:	Dec 1, 2011 008.JPG
Views:	147
Size:	951.8 KB
ID:	60390  

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 12-02-2011, 08:13 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Georgia
Posts: 5
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Congrats

Let's keep the good work up. I am currently working on a 54 Ford P/U, using a stock Mustang II setup (actually a 73 Mercury Bobcat). Will be posting photos shortly. Hope to get a lot of advise from you and others
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 12-03-2011, 02:21 PM
Hwyhogg's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Electrolytic rust removal
Last journal entry: 2.75 in..3.50 posi out
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Spring Hill, Florida
Posts: 493
Wiki Edits: 6

Thanks: 1
Thanked 6 Times in 4 Posts
Thanks and welcome aboard. I have pretty much been learning as I go with this project and have gotten invaluable information from the guys on this site! Feel free to look at my project journal. I post the good, bad and the ugly. I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel, so I'm always open to comments, suggestions and concerns. Good luck on your project..you've found a great place to learn and share your own experiences!
James
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2011, 03:44 PM
willys36@aol.com's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet 4MV carbureto...
Last journal entry: How to change auto shift timing on 200R4
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 8,393
Wiki Edits: 21

Thanks: 1
Thanked 8 Times in 8 Posts
Think long and hard before installing strut-rod eliminator A-arms. Aftermarket suspensions have a bad history of failure using these. Unless you have a fenderless rod that will only be drive th Sonic Drive-in on Friday nights, keep the strut rods. And even using those, be sure the back mount is very strong. One of my favorite pass-times is pointing out cracked welds on brackets to rod owners at rod runs.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2011, 07:27 PM
Hwyhogg's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Electrolytic rust removal
Last journal entry: 2.75 in..3.50 posi out
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Spring Hill, Florida
Posts: 493
Wiki Edits: 6

Thanks: 1
Thanked 6 Times in 4 Posts
Thanks Willys. Always looking/listening for others' experiences. I will keep a close eye on those welds; especially since I didn't weld them.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 12-12-2011, 08:07 PM
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: General Motors transmissions Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: near Yellowstone park
Posts: 4,473
Wiki Edits: 27

Thanks: 13
Thanked 285 Times in 265 Posts
good tip.

This is the first time I have heard about the interference , Most M II get gm or mopar rotors, This winter My son wants to finally get the M II under his 36 PLY. He said he is going to use the stock MII crosmember and granada - Versailles rotors-calipers since we have them up in the parts rack. It already has a lincoln TC 8.8 disc rear.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2011, 10:55 AM
willys36@aol.com's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet 4MV carbureto...
Last journal entry: How to change auto shift timing on 200R4
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Bakersfield
Posts: 8,393
Wiki Edits: 21

Thanks: 1
Thanked 8 Times in 8 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale
This is the first time I have heard about the interference , Most M II get gm or mopar rotors, This winter My son wants to finally get the M II under his 36 PLY. He said he is going to use the stock MII crosmember and granada - Versailles rotors-calipers since we have them up in the parts rack. It already has a lincoln TC 8.8 disc rear.

I like his plan! I trust Pford engineers over all the after-market suppliers. I highly recommend he also use the factory strut rod mounts and BOLT them to the frame as shown here and pictures below.


Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2011, 04:36 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 6
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
56 F-100

Just started on a 56 F-100...it has a Mustang II IFS...what are you going to use for a motor? I'm planning on a SBF 302/351...working on engine mounts now.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2011, 09:25 PM
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: General Motors transmissions Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: near Yellowstone park
Posts: 4,473
Wiki Edits: 27

Thanks: 13
Thanked 285 Times in 265 Posts
Mustang strut rods,

Mustang II' s were different than Pinto's, Mustangs had the rubber biscuit mounts, more bracing from the floor to the bottom of the instrument panel and more sound deadners in the body structure. The push was on for NVH reduction. ( Noise, Vibrations, harshness). In the factory the steering rack nuts were crimped by a big heavy combination torque control driver-crimper.the Mustang suspension moved around more than pinto's because of all the rubber mounting. I heard that the nuts loosened on some of the first prototype during the 50 K durability runs. I always locktite suspension fasteners. I never did see the factory repair standards info on the suspensions.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 12-22-2011, 06:35 AM
Ifit aint fix...Don't broke it
 

Last journal entry: 52 fleetline firewall
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: georgia
Posts: 60
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
strut rods

I had the same problem, I ordered several different ones untill i got the fatman brand fir 99 bucks online. These were nice and snarfy with big heavy plates to notch and weld. pictures on my journaj pages
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Suspension - Brakes - Steering posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
LOWER CONTROL ARMS. PLEASE HELP Pro1972nova Suspension - Brakes - Steering 4 03-01-2012 10:19 PM
Lower Control Arms globb Suspension - Brakes - Steering 1 05-28-2011 02:28 PM
lower control arms runn141 Suspension - Brakes - Steering 5 05-02-2007 05:49 PM
56 Chevy Lower Control Arms Brian's56Chevy Suspension - Brakes - Steering 4 08-23-2006 07:56 AM
Nova Lower Control Arms Pro1972nova Suspension - Brakes - Steering 1 12-15-2002 02:26 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 05:44 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.