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Old 03-28-2008, 03:26 PM
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Stroke Her S-10 BLAZER

i am wanting to build a 500 hp or better sbc. i want to use a 383 stroker kit. it will go in a 92 s-10 blazer. i have two blocks to choose from. one is a 68 or 69 327 two bolt main, and i have a 350 four bolt main. i dont know which one to use, because the 350 is already bored 60 over. and im afraid it will run hot on the street. it will have a 700r4 trans. if someone could help with this i would be very thankful. which would the best kit, heads, cam, stall, intake, and carb. i want to use a solid lift cam, that has a really good lick. and overall strong enough to take the spray if need be. but at the same time run good on pump gas. i hope this isnt to much to want or ask for. im trying to build this for my wife. my dad blew the other engine that was in it about two years ago. my wife has been on me about getting it back together. so im trying to do it for our nine year anniversary. thank you. i hope someone can help. JASON

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Old 03-28-2008, 04:23 PM
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4 bolt always for longevity but the whole 60 over thing would worry me too. You could have it sonic tested...OR...have you thought about having new splayed caps installed on the 327 and having it align honed?
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Old 03-28-2008, 04:35 PM
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Stroke Her

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeathRattle
4 bolt always for longevity but the whole 60 over thing would worry me too. You could have it sonic tested...OR...have you thought about having new splayed caps installed on the 327 and having it align honed?
I WAS TOLD THAT THE 383 KIT WOULD ONLY WORK IN A 68 69 327 BLOCK. IF I USED IT I WAS GOING TO HAVE IT BORED, AND WORKED FOR FOUR BOLT MAIN CAPS.
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Old 03-28-2008, 05:19 PM
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In these parts it will cost you more to get the 327 splayed for the 4 bolt than a 4 bolt 350 used will cost you , The splayed is stronger but the build you are doing I dont think is going to push the 350 4 bolt .
The 383 was actually started in a 350 block bored .030 over using a 400 crank so I am not to sure about who told you that you had to use a 327 . I am in the process of building a supercharged 383 now .
I wouldnt use the .060 over block , If you really want to do a 500 hp motor and then spray it on top of that you need to have a stout bottom end , I would be looking for a 3rd block and forged bottom end .
If it were me I would sell the 327 , You could probally get enough for to get the 350 or close enough .
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Old 03-28-2008, 05:27 PM
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I think what he said was, that if he used a 327 block it had to be a 68 or 69, not that he had to use a 327 block to make a 383.
There is no difference between a 68-69 327 block and a 2 bolt 350 block.
I agree, a 3rd block would be the answer. A 4 bolt 350 block that could be bored to .030" over.
JA
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Old 03-28-2008, 05:40 PM
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I'd never consider a 327 to stroke to 383; stroke on the 327 is 3.25", the 383 is .50" more, 3.75" with a 5.7" rod. Think about your clearance issues, not to mention the splayed caps cost; like smokin says, very expensive machine work. I have splayed billet caps on my blown 383, saddle and cap machining, accurate drilling/tapping was over $1,200 alone, and there are specific requirements, such as .003" clearance at the outboard flanges, add line boring after, it takes a knowledgeable machinist to do it right.

I'd have to calculate other options for bore/stroke on a 327 to 383 stroker, there may be something other than 4.030 x 3.75.

Johnnya - are there any differences in the cylinder wall castings, depth wise, or cam positioning? I thought there may be.
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Old 03-28-2008, 06:35 PM
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Most early and late 327 blocks do not have a machined front and back face to their main webbing, as a 302 or 350 does, leaving an "as cast" appearance to the webbing,and a much weaker one,like a 289/302 Ford has in appearance. Therefore, one would assume that all other parameters being equal, the 327 would have inferior strength in the webbing area, and adding splayed caps would be like putting a band-aid on a serious injury. Also,as Nova pointed out, clearance issues not only from the rods, but the counterweights as well would be almost certain. Look at the bottom of the cylinders on a 350, and notice in the proximity of the front and rear counterweight location between the cam tunnel and crank. The 350 style engines have a machined relief for counterweight clearance and the 327 does not. So, even installing a 350 crank in a 327 block would present its own challenges, so imagine putting a 400 crank in one. It can be done, but I agree with everyone else, it just isn't the best option.....
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Old 03-29-2008, 08:42 AM
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Stroke Her

Well In That Case Does Any One Need A 327 With Camel Hump Heads? I Think Its Even Std Bore. How Much Would The Block That I Need Cost? Or Could I Use The 350 And Just Sleeve It, Or Can It Be Salvaged?
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Old 03-29-2008, 10:35 AM
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Hey Jason, If you had a block that just needed 1 sleeve, that would be acceptable. But not only is sleeving all 8 cylinders not cost effective(typically $80 per sleeve in my area of GA.), it also weakens the block significantly to sleeve all 8. And since you are looking to get quite a few horses out of you build-up, you dont want to do anything that will compromise your engine. If you were restoring a valuable Camaro or Corvette and that block was the missing link for a matching # restoration, then sleeving that block with all 8 cylinders might be an option. Finding a 4 bolt 350 block shouldn't be too difficult, they are very plentiful in my area, and several machine shops sell blocks for around $250 that have already been degreased and magnaflux'd. And they are in the paper all the time complete for less than that....
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