![]() |
|
|
|
||||||
|
Weld some plates on the bottom of the axle and bolt it on top of the spring.
|
|
||||||
|
so kind of like "flipping" a rear axle with leaf springs? Same applies here?
Also, I have a heart donor (454 BBC) that I will eventually be putting in. Do you think I will have any suspension problems up front with the straight beam after lowering it? I know that's a pretty general question...just hoping Willys in your infinite wisdom may guide my youngin' arse. --->Also, if someone knows a dropped axle supplier, please let me know. I did some checking around but didn't find anything. Might not have looked hard enough. I did find an article that talks about heating and bending an axle, and how this was done several years ago, but there are not many shops doing it these days. |
|
||||||
|
Front axle suppliers
http://www.zigsstreetrods.com/Pages/frntsusp.html http://www.streetrodparts.tv/TCI_STRAIT_AXEL_PARTS.htm http://www.hotrodsusa.com/store2/sus...ppedFrontAxles http://www.speedwaymotors.com/prod_l...tSearch_id=225 http://www.chassisengineeringinc.com...1-1948ford.htm http://www.accessrpm.com/cgi-bin/pag...Axles/Dropped/ http://www.ford-trucks.com/dcforum/48_60/1812.html Kevin |
|
||||||
|
Mor-Drop
Quote:
If you are interested in a real old time lowered axle, contact MorDrop Axles, 600 29th Ave, Oakland, CA 94601, 1-510-261-1888. Talk to Marty. This is the real old time company that has been doing this for 50 years. Last quote I got from him was in the $250-$275 range. Need to add ~$25-$50 shipping to 'Frisco & back. |
|
||||||
|
Kevin,
most of those sites only have straight-axles for Ford spindles. Not sure if it would fit my application, although it may. Thanks for all of the input everyone. I'm not feeling so bad about the lack of an IFS and 4 link out back anymore. I'm kind of looking forward to getting everything in running condition and hitting the road. |
|
||||||
|
MII IFS kits are so popular now a days, it's almost like seeing a SBC! Pretty soon, you'll be the different one!
|
|
||||||
|
I'm not making a specific effort in this area to be different...unfortunately. If I had the money, I'd go for an IFS in a second. It's just that they are so expensive.
I keep thinking of all the wonderful things I'd like to do some day, but I'm quickly coming to the realization that it's unrealistic...maybe not unrealistic, but not practical with everything else I have going on
|
|
||||||
|
these posts may help you its all I could find.......joe
http://www.chevytalk.org/threads/sho...rue#Post104897 http://50chevy.freeservers.com/Bolt_...pendent_2.html <~~~~this is for 48-54 but may give you ideas http://www.gibbonfiberglass.com/trucks/torsion_kit2.asp |
|
||||||
|
I have done two MII swaps into cars using stock X-members and they didn't cost me a cent. Bought the cars, took the parts I wanted and parted out the rest.
Also, I have a scan of an article on installing the '77 Chevy PU front end in a '53 Chevy PU. Send me your email adress and I'll send you the article. There are other ways to do the job than lay down big $$ to a vendor. You just need to want it bad enough and get the hot rodder's spirit. |
|
||||||
|
Willys, I think the article you are talking about is online?
http://50chevy.freeservers.com/Bolt_...pendent_2.html (Thanks TooMany) As for the stock MII x-members...isn't there potential for alot of problems doing something like that? I heard if you don't know what you're doing, you could end up with bumpsteer and that's a bad thing. |
|
||||||
|
No, that isn't the article I have. Mine is a tech article that gives a lot more 'how-to' info.
As far as danger of stock X-member installation, those arguements sound like they were made by the after market vendors. I have had no problem with poor handling. Bump steer is the result of misalignment of the steering gear linkage with the A-arm geometry. Since the stock MII X-member relationship between the hardware and steering gear is not disturbed in the swap, bump steer is impossible. The only geomety problem I can conceive is not setting the caster of the the X-member properly. Just spend a few minutes leveling the center, flat part of the X-member and things are great. I am a firm believer that the stock unit is MUCH safer in operation than the aftermarket units. For one thing, I have never heard of a failure in the original host car or any retrofit of a stock X-member. That can't be said for the after market units - just on this board there have been several horror stories of catastrophic failures in the after market units. Second, it stands to reason that Detroit did just a little more engineering and testing than the vendors did. Incidentally, I also have a couple of tech articles on installing stock MII X-members I can send. Last edited by willys36@aol.com; 07-16-2003 at 10:11 AM. |
|
||||||
|
I'd definately like to broaden my knowledge in this arena.
When you have an opporunity, please send the articles to kfriend@whoi.edu -Much appreciated. Do you know anything about the Camaro front clip swap for 55-59 Chevy Trucks? I think I have something on it, but it wasn't very thorough, and it sounds REALLY REALLY scary to do. |
|
||||||
|
I don't have anything on the Camaro clip but I have done a Monte Carlo clip and it went in sweet. I'll send along a copy of the installation story I wrote on that too.
|
|
|
| Recent Suspension - Brakes - Steering posts with photos |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | |
|
|