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Old 11-30-2009, 03:18 PM
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Strange noise when i tap on my oil pan. Something laying inside.?

96' Silverado K1500 305sfi 4L60E

Well, i just got home from work, and decided to feel my front us joints to see if they were hot (just changed them), and i dont know why, but i tapped on the bottom of my oil pan. And i heard something inside jump each time i tapped on the pan. At first, i thought maybe oil pump pickup, but just the slightest tap would make it respond. As if the pick up was extremely loose. My oil press was perfectly normal, and has never been abnormal.

I hope it is the oil pickup just swingin like normal. I think i will take a magnet out there and see if its a free object that i can move around.

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Old 11-30-2009, 03:29 PM
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Could be a small magnet to trap metal sludge.

Vince
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Old 11-30-2009, 06:58 PM
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Noise in oil pan......

Hi,sorry,ive never ran across a swinging oil pump pickup.(maybe im too old ) i personally would pull the pan and look ! at least i would drain the oil,get a strong magnet,and move the loose (whatever) over to the drain hole,to see what it is. if its a nut,PULL THE PAN,could be a conn rod nut,if its not a nut,its your call,pull the pan or not....dont cry to us,if you blow the engine because you were too lazy to do a proper inspection.....
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Old 12-01-2009, 06:06 AM
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These engines came with a factory Windage Tray. Maybe one of the retainer nuts came loose.
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Old 12-01-2009, 06:34 AM
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didn't these motors also come with the low oil sensor assy??? as for swinging pickups ,not on any of the GM vehicles I worked on it , if it swung it was coming out of the pump as they where press fit into it .
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Old 12-01-2009, 08:02 AM
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It seems to me it would be difficult to have something in the pan rattle around unless there was no oil in the pan.
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Old 12-01-2009, 03:26 PM
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Ayuh,... I wouldn't worry about it.....

As for the alleged Noise,...
Does anybody remember the little tin clickers we had as kids,...??
Ya know, the tin ckickers used by US troops at Normandy,..??
Quote:
And i heard something inside jump each time i tapped on the pan.
Click, Click,....
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Old 12-01-2009, 04:48 PM
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My 305 chevy had that same problem, 1981 engine. I began about a year, I notice that when I go down to stop light, I could hear some lack of oil, kinda nervous knock knock. I decided to change the oil, after all the oil came out, I saw something metal and shiney. It was big, I got a stick and poked it, it was hard to move it, but it did move. I wished that I had one of those magnetic wand that telescopes to two feet. I knew something was wrong, I pulled the pan and I had about 8 pieces and of course the oil pump sump was laying in the pan with skirts of the piston. The 305 had 25K after the oil starvation looked as 120K miles on it. That's why I am getting my 500 cadillac that set in the garage for 2 years ago. The trick is to drill a pin to hold the sump, or just weld a spot or two on the sump to oil pump. I wish I had done it, I could not believe when I just shoved the pipe tight, the cam jerked alot and vibration let it go.
Hope yours works out.
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Old 12-01-2009, 05:26 PM
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The baffle plate could be loose, bad welds or cracked .
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Old 12-01-2009, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 327amc
I think i will take a magnet out there and see if its a free object that i can move around.
If you find that it's something magnetic that won't come out the drain plug hole, I'd use a strong magnet, JB Welded to the bottom of the sump to hold it from getting up into the rotating assembly until you get the pan off to retrieve it.

IMHO, the magnet need not be huge if it's a rare earth-type, but would need to be =/>3/4" thick if it's a ceramic-type magnet, to be on the safe side.
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Old 12-01-2009, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobalt327
If you find that it's something magnetic that won't come out the drain plug hole, I'd use a strong magnet, JB Welded to the bottom of the sump to hold it from getting up into the rotating assembly until you get the pan off to retrieve it.

IMHO, the magnet need not be huge if it's a rare earth-type, but would need to be =/>3/4" thick if it's a ceramic-type magnet, to be on the safe side.
Hard drive magnent would work nicely,but personally I'l pull the pan.
Shane
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Old 12-01-2009, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevrolet4x4s
Hard drive magnent would work nicely,but personally I'l pull the pan.
Shane
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Old 12-05-2009, 08:47 PM
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Are you ready for this....?

I pulled the pan.



There was 2 things loose.

First, the oil pick up tube. It was laying in the bottom of the pan. It has probably been there since ive owned the truck (5yrs). Never had oil problems unless i really mashed on the brakes really hard. Then for a split second my oil light would come on.

The other thing that was loose was one of the rear main bolts!! It was completely loose, but it couldnt fall completely out because it was resting on the windage tray.

Based on the wear pattern that the bolt head left on the windage tray, i would estimate that bolt has been out for as long as ive owned the truck aswell. But really, thats very hard for me to estimate because you have to consider the oil constantly reducing the friction between that bolt head and tray.

ANYWAYS.... lol Now hopefully my last question!!!

I removed the oil filter adapter/cooler contraption (because i destroyed the oil filter trying to get it off). This is the unit that bolts to the motor (with filter) that sends the oil to the radiator (via 2 lines).

This thing is a massive pain in the *** to get back on by myself. So, i took off an oldschool filter adapter from an 86' 305 i had laying around and just happened to have a new p30 filter. I put all that on, and fired the truck up.

The truck sounded normal.
No rattling or tapping. But i quickly shut the truck off after 6seconds or so (i will explain why later).

So my question, is it ok to remove that remote oil cooler adapter and intall one of the oldschool ones in its place? Will the oil system function normally? I ask because i know there is check valves in those adapters. And plus, gm engineers get off on changing things.

Ok. So the reason i shut the truck off quickly.
When i turned the key on to prime the fuel pump before start, i watched the gauges, and the oil pump gauge went full peg. Past 80psi. I thought this was strange since i hadnt even started the motor. But maybe it was doing a gauge check since we were dicking with the oil system. So i went ahead and started it for that 6 seconds. The gauge didnt respond at all. It stayed pegged off the scale. And as i said before. The motor sounded fine.

So i looked around for the oil pressure sending unit. And ofcourse, its not on the drivers side. Its in the back hangin out with the distributor and fuel lines. And ofcourse, i had broken it when jacking up the engine to get the pan off ("OH, thats what that crunch sound was").

So, now i have to wait till tomorrow to find/purchase the retarded *** wrench or socket that removes that sending unit, and install a new one.

If i hadnt broken that sending unit, i would know the answer to my latest question. lol

Thanks in advance. You all always are great help!!
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Old 12-05-2009, 10:27 PM
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the old style filter adapter will work perfect with no problems , BUT you better go find a Toyota Tundra or honda ridgeline and sacrifice it to the Chevy God as you where lucky that motor lasted that long with those problems ...
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Old 12-05-2009, 10:28 PM
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Noise in Oil Pan....

HI,may i make a suggestion? remove the pan AGAIN,since you found a main cap nut loose,i would get in there with a torque wrench(after i pulled that loose main cap) and check the bearing,it might even be a good idea to check ALL the bearings (rod and mains) and re-torque everything. i wouldnt like to be caught with my butt hanging out if something let loose...also,i would tack weld the oil pickup to the pump in at least 2 places.

Last edited by boatbob2; 12-06-2009 at 08:21 AM.
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