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Street Beast builds......Tips, problems and solutions.

291K views 804 replies 73 participants last post by  shortsteven618 
#1 ·
Street Beasts is out of business, so is their tech support.
A couple of us thought it might be a good idea to have a thread where
tips, questions and solutions regarding these car kits can be discussed and hopefully solved. We seem to have a number of newer members with these kits and a number of members that have built these cars and have solved many of the problems. This thread would give these members to get together with their common problems and solutions.

We did have some employees of the company on our board a while back. Their input would be welcome I am sure too.

BTW, this thread is about the build, not the company that produced these kits. The mods will be monitoring the thread and talk of the company and policies of the company will be edited out or deleted, whatever it takes to keep it just about the build......so, lets keep it that way.

Since this thread will discuss a number of different subjects, from body to framework to suspensions etc, I thought it might be best to have this thread in the lounge.
 
#302 ·
Street Beast

rakrick said:
Starting to look for a radiator for my 34 ford SB build. the manual gives some dimensions. What are people actually putting in? secondly, i have an LS1 engine, do i need a 2 or 4 row radiator?
I have a Mustang radiator, I went through a radiator book until I found one with the right dimensions, it just happened to be a Mustang, that is what I have for a engine.

As far as 2 or 4 row, I always go with bigger is better when it comes to radiators. If you run a shroud on it you should have no trouble there.

Bob
 
#303 ·
rakrick said:
Starting to look for a radiator for my 34 ford SB build. the manual gives some dimensions. What are people actually putting in? secondly, i have an LS1 engine, do i need a 2 or 4 row radiator?
Just came across your post here. When starting my build back in 1992 I purchased my Radiator from Walker Radiator Works in Memphis, TN. They made a Radiator for a Classic Motor Carriages version of a '34 Ford. Mine came with A/C Condenser installed on the front. The Radiator was a perfect fit to the car and heavy duty. Don't recall how many Rows the core was. Just went through my old paperwork file to my build and found the receipt. Part number was C-AC498-1 CM. Discription 1933-34 Ford. Cost me $511.57 shipping included on 2/04/93. I have one of the ZZ4 Series GM 350 engines installed in my car.
 
#308 · (Edited)
Street beast

Jason0779 said:
Are these streetbeast cars?


[/QUOTE]


They look like it, the front fenders are over the wheels, which most are not, the tail lights look like the ones they use, the best way to tell is the grille insert, unless it has been changed, they have one bar missing from each side. That one is a nice looking car sits right looks good. If people want to make the changes they can look pretty good. If you have a picture of the front end post it. If the fenders are one piece I think it is as I don't know if anyone else made them all one.

Bob

The one has 34 tail lights on it, if it is a SB they were added. The bottom one has smooth hood side, mine are not and I don't know if they made them that way.

Both cars sit the same, so they either did some thing to there front ends or widen the fenders. The top one tubbed his. But like I said they can do a lot to them if you want to make the changes.

Front end shots would help.
 
#309 ·
hanging doors on 34 SB cabriolet

i have the hinge posts bolted to the frame and bolted to the body. the manual says the flange where the door panels were cut out should measure 44 3/4 inches across. they are ambiguious as to where to take this measurement so i swagged it. My question is how critical and is this really needed to hang the doors?
 
#310 ·
Street Beast

rakrick said:
i have the hinge posts bolted to the frame and bolted to the body. the manual says the flange where the door panels were cut out should measure 44 3/4 inches across. they are ambiguious as to where to take this measurement so i swagged it. My question is how critical and is this really needed to hang the doors?
I never used the manual when I was putting mine together, I just bolted the hinges on then used shims to get the gaps right.

Bob
 
#313 ·
hinge posts

If no one else can help you sooner I have a 34 Ford (classic Motor Carriage/same as streetbeast) Coupe in storage (never put it together yet). I can take pictures and draw you up some detailed plans so you can build your own, as soon as I finish my shop in a month or so and get the car moved. If I can make my way to the back of the storage shed and find the parts I'll do it sooner. I also have some other resources that may be of help/interest if your not already aware of them. If you are interested just send me a private message and I'll give you my email address...
 
#335 ·
If no one else can help you sooner I have a 34 Ford (classic Motor Carriage/same as streetbeast) Coupe in storage (never put it together yet). I can take pictures and draw you up some detailed plans so you can build your own, as soon as I finish my shop in a month or so and get the car moved. If I can make my way to the back of the storage shed and find the parts I'll do it sooner. I also have some other resources that may be of help/interest if your not already aware of them. If you are interested just send me a private message and I'll give you my email address...
Hello Gearhead, I also have a 34 Ford 3 window Street Beast kit. I bought it unfinished and am in need of 2 sets of door hinges. I have the posts but need the hinge part that attaches to the door.
If you have a source for these hinges at a resonable price I could use it.
Thanks,
Daryl
 
#315 ·
radiator and grille

I am looking for ideas on the radiator and grille insert for 33 Vicky CMC. The radiator I have came from SB and I wonder if the CMC design is different. Can't see how the newer radiator fits. Also have two brackets that support radiator at bottom according to the build manual. No place on side of radiator where they could mount. Also, I read in previous posts where not many people like the SB insert. I have no insert, not sure I want to pay $1000 for an ugly one from Alumicraft. They say they have one in stock. Anyone ever build their own insert?
 
#317 ·
i'm curious to that also. I'm almost to that point. I'm thinking i need to narrow the tunnel to give some clearance to the doors. Right now, i've modified my seat frames to align up with the mount strips on the frame. I welded tabs facing toward the center of the seat frame, but i don't know if i need to use the brackets that came with the kit. I don't think i do need to use them.
ray
 
#322 ·
Hi Bob,

Glad to see you on here again! Get well soon! As for our seats, we went with a hybrid of the SB floor mounts and the slider rails from the mnfr. of Procar seats.

Bottom line, the line of sight is on point and we're very happy with it.

Jay K.

Ps. Glad to see you posting again and get healthy, Dang it!
 
#324 · (Edited)
Vickie Door glass

I have a partial kit from when it was CMC. Before SB went under, I had bought a lot of the stuff I needed, but I have no glass. Frt and rear is no prob, but I need some patterns for the door glass. Anyone out there have an unfinished Vicky kit from which I could get some patterns to have the glass made? Or who originally manufactured the glass for SB?
 
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