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  #196 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2011, 10:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brickyardboy
My American Racing wheels on rear of the car have a 4" backspace, which pushes the wheel under the fender edge. There's plenty of space between the inside tire edge and shock, so a 5" backspace wheel would have tucked the tire inside the wheel well, allowing me to not have to use the air shocks to keep the fender edge from rubbing on the tire top when you hit a bump.
If you are right at the edge of the fender with the tire, that will work if you can get a 5" backspace wheel, . Don't forget your tire starts rounding out from the tread so if you don't allow enough you could hit the side of the tire. I thought you said the tire stuck out a inch, but if not all the better.
If you can't get your wheel with a 5" backspace you might have to do as Dave suggested and either look into a different rearend or have yours cut. If you live in a big town you should have someone that can do the work, axles are a different story. There you need someone with a hobbing machine to cut the big spline on the axle.

Bob

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  #197 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2011, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 35terraplane
If you are right at the edge of the fender with the tire, that will work if you can get a 5" backspace wheel, . Don't forget your tire starts rounding out from the tread so if you don't allow enough you could hit the side of the tire. I thought you said the tire stuck out a inch, but if not all the better.
If you can't get your wheel with a 5" backspace you might have to do as Dave suggested and either look into a different rearend or have yours cut. If you live in a big town you should have someone that can do the work, axles are a different story. There you need someone with a hobbing machine to cut the big spline on the axle.

Bob
No, the tire doesn't stick out one inch. What I meant was that I have 1" clearance from the top right edge of my tire to the fender rim without anyone sitting in the car.
Even with the new gas shocks on, when you get two people in the car it will bottom and rub when hitting a bump. Seeing that this is a 4 lug, it's difficult to find a pair of American Racing 'Baja' wheels with 5" backspacing. I've looked just about everywhere, but no luck. They have the wheel in a 15 x8 five lug with 5 1/2" backspace, but does me no good right now. I have to now consider changing to 5 lug, which means I'll need to now buy four new wheels, or like you said, seek another rear end, or have this one cut down. All expensive propositions. I'm thinking of pulling the shocks off, and putting new air shocks on for the time being, so that I can use the car, and than take some time to make the next choice. I agree with most opinions here that these cars would look so much nicer if you could tuck both front and back tires into the wheel wells. Anyone using dropped spindles on the front?
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  #198 (permalink)  
Old 06-22-2011, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brickyardboy
No, the tire doesn't stick out one inch. What I meant was that I have 1" clearance from the top right edge of my tire to the fender rim without anyone sitting in the car.
Even with the new gas shocks on, when you get two people in the car it will bottom and rub when hitting a bump. Seeing that this is a 4 lug, it's difficult to find a pair of American Racing 'Baja' wheels with 5" backspacing. I've looked just about everywhere, but no luck. They have the wheel in a 15 x8 five lug with 5 1/2" backspace, but does me no good right now. I have to now consider changing to 5 lug, which means I'll need to now buy four new wheels, or like you said, seek another rear end, or have this one cut down. All expensive propositions. I'm thinking of pulling the shocks off, and putting new air shocks on for the time being, so that I can use the car, and than take some time to make the next choice. I agree with most opinions here that these cars would look so much nicer if you could tuck both front and back tires into the wheel wells. Anyone using dropped spindles on the front?
I have dropped spindles, which lower the car 2", I also have mustang racing springs which lower the car 1 1/2" but have the same compression rate as stock springs.

Bob

Last edited by 35terraplane; 06-22-2011 at 04:38 PM. Reason: check
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  #199 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2011, 12:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brickyardboy
No, the tire doesn't stick out one inch. What I meant was that I have 1" clearance from the top right edge of my tire to the fender rim without anyone sitting in the car.
Even with the new gas shocks on, when you get two people in the car it will bottom and rub when hitting a bump. Seeing that this is a 4 lug, it's difficult to find a pair of American Racing 'Baja' wheels with 5" backspacing. I've looked just about everywhere, but no luck. They have the wheel in a 15 x8 five lug with 5 1/2" backspace, but does me no good right now. I have to now consider changing to 5 lug, which means I'll need to now buy four new wheels, or like you said, seek another rear end, or have this one cut down. All expensive propositions. I'm thinking of pulling the shocks off, and putting new air shocks on for the time being, so that I can use the car, and than take some time to make the next choice. I agree with most opinions here that these cars would look so much nicer if you could tuck both front and back tires into the wheel wells. Anyone using dropped spindles on the front?
Leave the gas shocks on. Just go to Summit or Jegs and purchase a set of air bags to put in the 2 rear springs as I did and you will not have any more problems with rubbing of the tires. If you have a Mustang rear in the car as I have you just order it for whatever year Mustang it came out of. In my case I ordered them for a '89 Mustang LX. I am sure I still have the part number in my build folder. I have my air valve set up right behind the rear Drivers side tire in the frame. If I carry another person in the car I put about 25-30 psi in the air bags. I think it is the better way to go then to go with air shocks.
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  #200 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2011, 05:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ffas23
Leave the gas shocks on. Just go to Summit or Jegs and purchase a set of air bags to put in the 2 rear springs as I did and you will not have any more problems with rubbing of the tires. If you have a Mustang rear in the car as I have you just order it for whatever year Mustang it came out of. In my case I ordered them for a '89 Mustang LX. I am sure I still have the part number in my build folder. I have my air valve set up right behind the rear Drivers side tire in the frame. If I carry another person in the car I put about 25-30 psi in the air bags. I think it is the better way to go then to go with air shocks.
I did look up the air lift drag bags on Summit last week when we talked about alternatives, but because I would have to drop the rear end and remove the springs to install the bags, i started looking for a less time consuming fix. LOL Just kidding here. I know sometimes there's no easy way out of a problem, and I appreciate all suggestions. This way I can digest the info and choose what's going to work on my car.
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  #201 (permalink)  
Old 06-23-2011, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brickyardboy
I did look up the air lift drag bags on Summit last week when we talked about alternatives, but because I would have to drop the rear end and remove the springs to install the bags, i started looking for a less time consuming fix. LOL Just kidding here. I know sometimes there's no easy way out of a problem, and I appreciate all suggestions. This way I can digest the info and choose what's going to work on my car.
It sounds like a Big Job but it isn't. All you need is one jack stand and a floor jack and it is no harder then changing out your rear shocks on your car. What you do is put your floor jack under the side you want to start with. Say you are doing the passenger side first as I would do. Put the floor jack under the right side of the rear end and lift the car so that you can put a jack stand under the frame on the Passenger side before the rear wheel. Then pump the floor jack up enough to take pressure off of the rear shock on the side you are working on to disconnect it. Once the shock is removed let it down some and you will be able to take the spring out on that side. The bag goes in the spring and then you put the spring back in the area where it sits on top of the rear. The only other thing you will need to do is to drill a hole in the housing above where the spring sits to put the air hose through that connects to the air bag before you put the spring back in. You then route your lines to the other side and do the same there. In my case as I mentioned in another post I mounted my valve on the frame right behind the Drivers side rear wheel area so I have easy access to put air inside of the air bags from there. Its basically almost the same job as putting air shocks in your car but I feel the air bags are a better choice.
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  #202 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2011, 06:22 AM
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Streetbeast purchase

Just a side comment here. A couple of months ago I picked up a "completed" street beast '34 Coupe from a divorcee and have been working to sort everything out. If I didn't know the history of Street Beast's management issues and lack of support, I would honestly have to say that I am IMPRESSED with the quality of the 'glass and build! 3/8" fiberglass (or thicker), steel reinforcements, strong chassis supports, etc... not bad!
I've recently completed a metal, original bodied '34 Tudor custom build and the issues with getting parts to fit, customizing etc. were no different between the two rebuilds... a custom is a custom!
I believe the time has come to view a Street Beast as nothing more, or less, than just another build project. Some challenges, some positives, but just another build.
Almost done now, just some carb issues, and some interior trim items, but looking forward to driving the beast as much as I can! Might even pinstripe "Street Beast" on the rear apron!
Regards...
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  #203 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2011, 06:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btsave
Just a side comment here. A couple of months ago I picked up a "completed" street beast '34 Coupe from a divorcee and have been working to sort everything out. If I didn't know the history of Street Beast's management issues and lack of support, I would honestly have to say that I am IMPRESSED with the quality of the 'glass and build! 3/8" fiberglass (or thicker), steel reinforcements, strong chassis supports, etc... not bad!
I've recently completed a metal, original bodied '34 Tudor custom build and the issues with getting parts to fit, customizing etc. were no different between the two rebuilds... a custom is a custom!
I believe the time has come to view a Street Beast as nothing more, or less, than just another build project. Some challenges, some positives, but just another build.
Almost done now, just some carb issues, and some interior trim items, but looking forward to driving the beast as much as I can! Might even pinstripe "Street Beast" on the rear apron!
Regards...
Glad you made it work.
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  #204 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2011, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btsave
Just a side comment here. A couple of months ago I picked up a "completed" street beast '34 Coupe from a divorcee and have been working to sort everything out. If I didn't know the history of Street Beast's management issues and lack of support, I would honestly have to say that I am IMPRESSED with the quality of the 'glass and build! 3/8" fiberglass (or thicker), steel reinforcements, strong chassis supports, etc... not bad!
I've recently completed a metal, original bodied '34 Tudor custom build and the issues with getting parts to fit, customizing etc. were no different between the two rebuilds... a custom is a custom!
I believe the time has come to view a Street Beast as nothing more, or less, than just another build project. Some challenges, some positives, but just another build.
Almost done now, just some carb issues, and some interior trim items, but looking forward to driving the beast as much as I can! Might even pinstripe "Street Beast" on the rear apron!
Regards...
Always felt the same way here when building my '34 Coupe back during the early 90's when the company's name was Classic Motor Carriages. Always hated when someone refered to the build as being a Kit Car. Made it sound like it was a kit of parts that just snapped together and was such a easy build when it was not at all even close. In my case I just acquired the body and frame from CMC. Everything else in the build of my car came either from the junk yard and or was rebuilt or purchased brand new from aftermarket vendors or a rebuilder such as in the case of the transmission I purchased rebuilt from a Transmission shop I delt with in my business. Even put a brand new ZZZ series Chevy Engine in my build.
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  #205 (permalink)  
Old 07-14-2011, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ffas23
Always felt the same way here when building my '34 Coupe back during the early 90's when the company's name was Classic Motor Carriages. Always hated when someone refered to the build as being a Kit Car. Made it sound like it was a kit of parts that just snapped together and was such a easy build when it was not at all even close. In my case I just acquired the body and frame from CMC. Everything else in the build of my car came either from the junk yard and or was rebuilt or purchased brand new from aftermarket vendors or a rebuilder such as in the case of the transmission I purchased rebuilt from a Transmission shop I delt with in my business. Even put a brand new ZZZ series Chevy Engine in my build.
Agreed! When anyone builds a custom or rod, unless they are manufacturing the parts from raw metal , they are assembling a ride, problem solving as they go and being creative as needed. Even if all the parts were included, how different is that from gathering all the parts from various vendors or bone yards on your own? Either way, you end up with a pile of parts that need to be put together. It's how well you put them together that makes the real difference!
Bart in FL
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  #206 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2011, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btsave
Agreed! When anyone builds a custom or rod, unless they are manufacturing the parts from raw metal , they are assembling a ride, problem solving as they go and being creative as needed. Even if all the parts were included, how different is that from gathering all the parts from various vendors or bone yards on your own? Either way, you end up with a pile of parts that need to be put together. It's how well you put them together that makes the real difference!
Bart in FL
I have one so I can say this, it's not that they are not all kit cars, which IMO they are, but it's how well everything from frame up is made. On one of these the Frame again IMO leaves a little to be desired.

Bob
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  #207 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2011, 01:56 PM
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My frame has been holding up quite well. Other then grinding some weld slag off of the frame before painting it during my build 19 years ago I did nothing else to the frame. 19 years and still going can't be all that bad. Could it? It sure made a believer out of me. Body is holding up quite well also and my car is not a trailer queen. I do drive it. Not as much as I would like but I have other collector cars also to drive. Can't drive them all at the same time now can I ?
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Old 07-29-2011, 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by ffas23
My frame has been holding up quite well. Other then grinding some weld slag off of the frame before painting it during my build 19 years ago I did nothing else to the frame. 19 years and still going can't be all that bad. Could it? It sure made a believer out of me. Body is holding up quite well also and my car is not a trailer queen. I do drive it. Not as much as I would like but I have other collector cars also to drive. Can't drive them all at the same time now can I ?

I didn't say they wouldn't hold up, The frames are built no where close too looking like a 34 ford, as other kits are made. they used too wide a front cross member, the welds in mine looked like a 12 year old did it. Plus if I said they were black you would say they were white. Which tells me you have not built too many real steel cars, as you would know what I was talking about. If you have, you must have forgot what they looked like frame wise.

Btsave was just saying that anything you put together, unless a real car, was in fact a kit car, I just said some were better than others. Most try to make them look like the real deal.

Bob
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Old 07-29-2011, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 35terraplane
I didn't say they wouldn't hold up, The frames are built no where close too looking like a 34 ford, as other kits are made. they used too wide a front cross member, the welds in mine looked like a 12 year old did it. Plus if I said they were black you would say they were white. Which tells me you have not built too many real steel cars, as you would know what I was talking about. If you have, you must have forgot what they looked like frame wise.

Btsave was just saying that anything you put together, unless a real car, was in fact a kit car, I just said some were better than others. Most try to make them look like the real deal.

Bob
Bob you are right I never built a car before my '34 Classic Motor Carriage's Coupe but I have owned plenty of muscle cars over my lifetime. I am 60 years old right now not a kid. I am only telling what I have experienced with my build. Some of you fellows make this car out to be such a terrible car that it scares most people away from them who read some of your posts hurting the value of these cars that we own. They really aren't as bad as some of the things that are said about them. I have the proof having mine 19 years and not doing much more then was needed by any builder to build one of these cars. I enjoy driving my car and I get as many looks with my '34 Coupe as I get with my '67 Corvette Coupe and that is saying something because my '67 Coupe is something to look at. Trust me.
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Old 07-29-2011, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ffas23
Bob you are right I never built a car before my '34 Classic Motor Carriage's Coupe but I have owned plenty of muscle cars over my lifetime. I am 60 years old right now not a kid. I am only telling what I have experienced with my build. Some of you fellows make this car out to be such a terrible car that it scares most people away from them who read some of your posts hurting the value of these cars that we own. They really aren't as bad as some of the things that are said about them. I have the proof having mine 19 years and not doing much more then was needed by any builder to build one of these cars. I enjoy driving my car and I get as many looks with my '34 Coupe as I get with my '67 Corvette Coupe and that is saying something because my '67 Coupe is something to look at. Trust me.
To me a muscle car is not a Hot Rod, Hot Rod stop at 1948, then you have customs, then muscle cars, I'm for old time cars, I prefer the 30's, nothing wrong with the rest but they are not my cup of tea. I have had newer cars, 63 Chev 409 425 H.P., 1968 Dodge Charger 440 Mag., 87 Ford T-Bird Turbo-coupe, one of only 5500 made, I still own it, 97 Mustang G.T. Convertible, 2005 Mustang G.T. Convertible, The last three were all stick cars, and they really were my wife's.

I still go back to the old cars, As far as street beast and me saying bad things about it, well it is what it is, and I have over $60,000.00 in mine and a paint job will be $15,000.00. That's life, and it won't be a trailer queen.

Bob
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