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  #286 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2012, 12:47 PM
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Putting it together

Quote:
Originally Posted by MLA55
Hello everyone,i am a collision shop owner from PA who just purchased a 34 ford cmc from someone who could not get it together. Here is my problem,all the parts were put into barrels,buckets,boxes,etc and nothing labeled anymore and also no assembly manual. It looks like a 4yr old at Christmas with all these parts! Does anyone know where i can purchase an assembly manual (i really need this for parts id the most!) Any help would be greatly appriciated!
I found some help on Youtube, the manual I got with mine has been hard to follow in spots or visualize I guess, mostly my problem. But got on Youtube typed in streetbeast 34 ford coupe and came up with lots of good videos that show step by step process with doors, hood, trunk floor, rear end.... the best ones were by Pete from southwestern rod and custom... I have them all downloaded and saved on my hard drive to follow when I get my shop done and over this illness... I hope that's a help for anyone that has one of these cars and needs help. Pete is an artist... and his videos are a big help for those of us that need to visualize the process. Good luck to all. http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...151l1.7.4l12l0

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  #287 (permalink)  
Old 01-20-2012, 01:06 PM
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Pro Street Frame Picks

Anyone got any picks of the work they did on the frame for the pro-street mods? And maybe any pointers. would like to see some detailed picks to get a better idea... but still looking through this thead if there are any here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by poncho62
An 8.8 has a rear cover,,,,,,a 9" is the pot style where the whole gear pot bolts in from the front.

8.8......




9"......

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  #288 (permalink)  
Old 01-22-2012, 02:11 PM
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8.8 Ford Mustang rear end width

I read that the 59.5 inch rear end width of the 8.8 Mustang II for the 34 Coupe SB or CMC is too wide. Anyone come up with a definite rear end width (not pro-street) narrowed to accommodate the 60 series 8 inch wide tires to fit and make the wheel look good with a proper dish look. An 8 inch wide tire will do but would prefer a 10 inch wide tire if it would fit, anyone done that size tire? 10 inches may be too wide to fit even with the rear end shortened, no idea. I'm willing to move the shock mount inboard to acquire more room. Anyone that can help would be appreciated. Would rather have an idea before I start dealing with measuring to avoid missing something.
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  #289 (permalink)  
Old 01-23-2012, 07:44 AM
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rear axle width

I have a 56" hub to hub axle and my 235 15's fit nicely. i'm running cragar ss rims, don't remember what the back spacing is.
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  #290 (permalink)  
Old 01-23-2012, 08:33 AM
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Street Beast gas tank

Has anyone set up the street beast gas tank for an LS1 fuel injection engine?
i understand the merrits of external and internal fuel pumps. Has anyone modified the tank for an internal pump?
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  #291 (permalink)  
Old 01-23-2012, 11:52 AM
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Street Beast

Quote:
Originally Posted by rakrick
Has anyone set up the street beast gas tank for an LS1 fuel injection engine?
i understand the merrits of external and internal fuel pumps. Has anyone modified the tank for an internal pump?
I don't have a ls1 engine, I have a Ford H.O. engine, I have an internal pump in mine. You have to have a return line back to the tank. I have a one off tank in mine, Built, it is S/S. I had to have a different tank as mine car has a Jag rear end. The tank that came with it would not fit.

Bob
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  #292 (permalink)  
Old 01-29-2012, 01:41 PM
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Hey guys, there is a question over in the interior forum...

Steet Beast 34 window channel

that you might be able to answer
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  #293 (permalink)  
Old 01-29-2012, 02:36 PM
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New Street Beast owner/builder

Just started on a 34 Coupe that another builder has almost? done. Just finished installing power window in 1 door and want to fit window seals but the channel supplied with the car seems too wide for the window run. The assembly manual is not very detailed as to now to get the channel in the window run. Any trick to this or should I look for a narrower channel or trim the window slot? The body has already been painted.

Bud
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  #294 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2012, 12:56 PM
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Street Beast

I've lost my build manual for the '33 Vicky. It's the Classic Motor Carriages version, published in 1991. Does anyone have one I can copy?
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  #295 (permalink)  
Old 02-13-2012, 01:29 PM
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Doh!

Never mind I found it. If anyone out there needs a copy, I can help.
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  #296 (permalink)  
Old 02-15-2012, 03:39 PM
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34 streetbeast coupe

They had a bunch of doors made in Mexico and put the steel in the wrong place so the windows could not be installed - I'd check that first...
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  #297 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2012, 07:14 PM
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strait axle

Hey all,

I'm not sure if yal remember but I had brought up in the past that I thought one of my front wheels looked like it was tucked in more then the other (especially towards the back of the front wheel where the hump starts going down to the running board). I was positive it was because one fender was wider than the other however I was wrong. It turns out the cross member was welded in crocked by the previous owner(therefore pulling the back of the drivers side front wheel in more and pushing the back of the passenger front wheel out{giving it that look}). How this happend i'm not sure. I've decided I want to put a strait axle in the car. My question is I have two options. Cut all the welds and grind and grind and eventually get the mustang 2 front end out. OR make two simple cuts right behind the mustang two crossmber, pull the whole front end off and then weld in two frame rail extensions and start the process from there. My questions is does anyone know where to buy frame sections that I could weld on to my current frame. Would frame horns be suffecient for this job?? Any ideas, anyone? THANKS!!
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  #298 (permalink)  
Old 03-15-2012, 12:19 PM
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Street beast

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason0779
Hey all,

I'm not sure if yal remember but I had brought up in the past that I thought one of my front wheels looked like it was tucked in more then the other (especially towards the back of the front wheel where the hump starts going down to the running board). I was positive it was because one fender was wider than the other however I was wrong. It turns out the cross member was welded in crocked by the previous owner(therefore pulling the back of the drivers side front wheel in more and pushing the back of the passenger front wheel out{giving it that look}). How this happend i'm not sure. I've decided I want to put a strait axle in the car. My question is I have two options. Cut all the welds and grind and grind and eventually get the mustang 2 front end out. OR make two simple cuts right behind the mustang two crossmber, pull the whole front end off and then weld in two frame rail extensions and start the process from there. My questions is does anyone know where to buy frame sections that I could weld on to my current frame. Would frame horns be suffecient for this job?? Any ideas, anyone? THANKS!!
Most parts off of a stock 33/34 ford will not fit on this frame or body without a lot of work. I don't know why the guy before you would have welded in the cross member as the factory did that. My fenders were off on mine and I ended up cutting them off and putting different ones on. check the drop from the top of the fender towards the engine bay. I had one that was right, the other took a steep drop.

The front cross member is too wide for the car also, so you cannot get your fenders over the wheels. I have widened my fenders 2"'s each and use short "A" arms. you can see it in my last picture above.

Bob
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  #299 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2012, 08:41 AM
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Thanks for the info. Has anyone out there installed a strait axle under one of these frames?
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  #300 (permalink)  
Old 03-19-2012, 02:25 PM
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Street beast

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason0779
Thanks for the info. Has anyone out there installed a strait axle under one of these frames?
I don't think I would want to cut the frame horns off and add new ones that puts all the pressure on the welds, and not on the frame rails. I'm not sure but I think there was a guy up in Alaska that put a straight axle under his, I know he built it without fenders. The only way I would cut the frame rail would get a smaller size square tube to go inside of the frame. but there again you would have smaller tubing to hold the engine, I wouldn't be putting no big block in it, or plan on doing wheelies with it.

Bob
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