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Street Beast builds......Tips, problems and solutions.

291K views 804 replies 73 participants last post by  shortsteven618 
#1 ·
Street Beasts is out of business, so is their tech support.
A couple of us thought it might be a good idea to have a thread where
tips, questions and solutions regarding these car kits can be discussed and hopefully solved. We seem to have a number of newer members with these kits and a number of members that have built these cars and have solved many of the problems. This thread would give these members to get together with their common problems and solutions.

We did have some employees of the company on our board a while back. Their input would be welcome I am sure too.

BTW, this thread is about the build, not the company that produced these kits. The mods will be monitoring the thread and talk of the company and policies of the company will be edited out or deleted, whatever it takes to keep it just about the build......so, lets keep it that way.

Since this thread will discuss a number of different subjects, from body to framework to suspensions etc, I thought it might be best to have this thread in the lounge.
 
#755 ·
Hi guys! I found this thread and thought I'd chime in. I have a 33 Vicky from SB. It is all but finished at this point. It took me five years, but in fairness I relocated and had a kid in the middle of the project.

I think it came out pretty good. Anyone who thinks it's easy because it's a kit is mistaken. I learned a lot and had a lot of fun. I didn't do everything by the book... Including having everything welded rather than bolted in the body structure.

Mine is a bit unusual. It has a ford 460, five speed tremec manual, and independent rear from a Jag. The engine has the edelbrock performer rpm top end, and it just screams!

These kits are big projects, so don't be fooled. Frankly I think SB gets a bad rap because of their marketing which made it sound too easy. It's not. Because of that, many people took too many short cuts and created a not so nice car. I did my best to do everything to the best quality - within reason - so as not to break the bank, but not have junk either.

It turns heads wherever it goes.
 
#757 ·
Post some more pix Sounder.... There's a few of us who have Beasts........

I believe the main beef with SB is they screwed over a lot of people by not providing comeplete. kits. Went bankrupt a couple times and restarted under different names. Just poor business practices as a whole.......

It's probably good you didn't built it by the book. The instructions cut corners. The proper alterations made for a stronger build.....
 
#760 ·
awesome to see someone finishing up a SB build. inspiring to me. i'm in year 5 and just about to begin wiring mine. totally understand life getting in the way, i live in AZ and 5 months out of the year it's too hot in my garage to allow sustained work. that's my story and i'm sticking to it. great job on the engine bay, i think i may use some of those idea's.
:D
 
#762 · (Edited)
Since you are asking about engine room design... here are some more engine photos for you. As you can see, the big block fits... but it is really tight in there. One thing to note is that with the big block, I also have a blow-proof bell housing. It's huge! So, the ground clearance isn't great. Gotta take it real easy on a speed bump.
 

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#763 ·
And, I did not do the interior "by the book" either. I don't like the look of the radio under the dash, so I used that spot for some of the gauges. I think it looks a little less cluttered this way. i created the custom overhead console for the radio instead. Sorry the pics are sideways... I don't know how to fix that.
 

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#765 ·
I guess I was one of the lucky ones. I received everything I paid for. A lot of the "extras" I didn't use, such as lighting and gauges. But I got it all, including the interior. The interior doesn't look totally professional, but I didn't have to pay the $5 to $10k for a pro interior either. I am mostly happy with how it came out. A real professional leather interior would look better... but I like the cloth. Also, there is only so much that you can spend on a SB, or you never get your investment back. And, I'm already past that point, mostly because of the paint job.
 
#767 ·
Looks killer! I too like the paint. I've seen them go for as much as $40k, so maybe you're still alright.....
The range seemed around $18k-$40K..... Depending on the build....

Did you custom make the aluminum grille/hood supports. They look real good.....
 
#768 ·
The hood supports were custom built by my friend who welds aluminum. They work well and allow the hood to open from either side, or be removed. And there are small feet to allow the hood to sit on a bench without the paint touching. I'll post a couple pics of how I did it. Works better than the SB standard setup.

The painter did a great job. It's three part PPG metallic silver with orange tint coat plus clear coat. Body and paint is one of the few things I contracted out. Good bodywork is critical to make it all look straight and correct.
 
#770 ·
The painter did a great job. It's three part PPG metallic silver with orange tint coat plus clear coat. Body and paint is one of the few things I contracted out. Good bodywork is critical to make it all look straight and correct.
Will you be at BTTF on Friday ? I'd like to see the car and talk about the paint with you. I'm looking for something very similar for my '38.
 
#775 ·
Hit the "quote" button on the right side of the screen right under the post you are referring to so we will know. I scrolled up a bit and can't find what you are talking about.

Brian
 
#780 ·
Front wheel / tire size '33 Vicky

Hello, all, and happy Thanksgiving. I did the introduce yourself section this afternoon. Continuing here now. I am resurrecting a '33 Vicky I got started on in 2007. I have built a completely new frame to replace the garbage they shipped back then. Widened it 2.5" all the way front to back to accommodate the suspension I want to use. The rear is going to be a sla with a 2004 GTO center section. The front is going to be a complete subframe and suspension from a C4 Corvette. I am aware, from reading through a good portion of this forum, about the fender width issues. I plan on widening them 2.5 to 3 inches to work with the chosen suspension and tires. My question is this: What is the largest diameter tire folks on here have run without hitting the tire on the top of the fender? Any info would be most appreciated.
 
#782 ·
Hello, all, and happy Thanksgiving. I did the introduce yourself section this afternoon. Continuing here now. I am resurrecting a '33 Vicky I got started on in 2007. I have built a completely new frame to replace the garbage they shipped back then. Widened it 2.5" all the way front to back to accommodate the suspension I want to use. The rear is going to be a sla with a 2004 GTO center section. The front is going to be a complete subframe and suspension from a C4 Corvette. I am aware, from reading through a good portion of this forum, about the fender width issues. I plan on widening them 2.5 to 3 inches to work with the chosen suspension and tires. My question is this: What is the largest diameter tire folks on here have run without hitting the tire on the top of the fender? Any info would be most appreciated.
I just ordered wheels for my 33 Vicky project which also has C4 Corvette front and rear supension. I order 17 X 7 with 5 3/8 backspace and am running and 24" tall tire. I will have the wheels in a couple weeks and am hoping I will not have to widen the front fenders but am ready to widen if I have to
 
#783 ·
Question on a door catch for my Street Beast 33 Vicky build. After a legit 100+ hours on the doors, slicing and dicing the doors eight ways to Sunday I have them fitting perfect, opening and closing excellent. The problem is when opening the door they swing very quickly wide open and if I am not there to catch the door they will hyper extend, twist the door post, crack the body.

It needs something to slow the door down, and keep it from opening past fully open. I looked at possibly a cable from the hinge post to the hinge, not enough room. I hate to put a piece of a strap from the door post to the inner door panel? Anyone done something about this that looks good?
 
#784 ·
Another question on my 33 Street beast Vicky build. There seems to be no way to enter the car without stepping on the running board. I am adding a grab handle on the windshield post to help with entry and exit with the suicide doors. Anyone come up with something nice looking, show car worthy, for some type of step material on the running board. We discussed everything from skateboard tape to diamond plate. My favorite idea would be to counter sink slightly for 1" wide aluminum strips but the budget problem won't justify the hours required to recess for these strips. Looking for ideas that won't break the hours bank for my customer. Hours are adding up quick making this a car.
 
#786 ·
I tell ya I just finished setting up the pedal tower and pedals and I cannot imagine how to fit a 3rd pedal for a clutch in there. With size 11s there was hardly enough room for accelerator and brake pedal in proper heel toe arrangement. I would think you would hit the brake pedal going for the clutch, the clutch pedal would be beside the kick panel.
 
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