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Street Beast builds......Tips, problems and solutions.

291K views 804 replies 73 participants last post by  shortsteven618 
#1 ·
Street Beasts is out of business, so is their tech support.
A couple of us thought it might be a good idea to have a thread where
tips, questions and solutions regarding these car kits can be discussed and hopefully solved. We seem to have a number of newer members with these kits and a number of members that have built these cars and have solved many of the problems. This thread would give these members to get together with their common problems and solutions.

We did have some employees of the company on our board a while back. Their input would be welcome I am sure too.

BTW, this thread is about the build, not the company that produced these kits. The mods will be monitoring the thread and talk of the company and policies of the company will be edited out or deleted, whatever it takes to keep it just about the build......so, lets keep it that way.

Since this thread will discuss a number of different subjects, from body to framework to suspensions etc, I thought it might be best to have this thread in the lounge.
 
#127 ·
Street Beast builds

Bob,
did you use the piece that goes under the dash? I used it, but had to do extensive work to make it fit. took me a few weeks to get it right, or at least look alright. The fuse panel is mounted upside down, and gets accessed through a door. I found some blade fuses that light up when they blow, so I can see what is happening without standing on my head.

I have two pieces left to fiberglass. these would be the small closure pieces at the rocker panel openings by the firewall. Can't see leaving them open, just let dirt in, and noise. Did you take your plumbing in under the firewall?

You are right about the looks of the grill. the first one they sent me, was total junk, so I sent it back. The one I have is at least straight. I made it so the grill is easy to remove. I think I am going to build one, after I get it running. If I keep changing stuff, it will never get done.

What is up with your trunk? Did you re-work it to be flat? And the gas filler is outside on the fender? Never saw one like that.

Wayne
 
#128 ·
Street Beast Builds

pipedoctor said:
Bob,
did you use the piece that goes under the dash? I used it, but had to do extensive work to make it fit. took me a few weeks to get it right, or at least look alright. The fuse panel is mounted upside down, and gets accessed through a door. I found some blade fuses that light up when they blow, so I can see what is happening without standing on my head.

I have two pieces left to fiberglass. these would be the small closure pieces at the rocker panel openings by the firewall. Can't see leaving them open, just let dirt in, and noise. Did you take your plumbing in under the firewall?

You are right about the looks of the grill. the first one they sent me, was total junk, so I sent it back. The one I have is at least straight. I made it so the grill is easy to remove. I think I am going to build one, after I get it running. If I keep changing stuff, it will never get done.

What is up with your trunk? Did you re-work it to be flat? And the gas filler is outside on the fender? Never saw one like that.

Wayne
Wayne, I never had anything for under the dash, I will have to make something, or leave it open we will see how it looks. As far as my fuse panel I have it in the trunk. and the control for my Dakota Digital Dash is in the overhead.

You might want to look at some of the grilles or just inserts that are made for other glass cars. When I got mine it was about $850.00, now I think they are around $2200.00, but not sure.
I change as I go along too, got enough parts for another car.
My trunk floor has always been flat, as far as the filler tube up on the top, I don't have the tank that came with it. A good friend of mine is Tank's who owns the CO. called "Tanks" that make them for streetrods. He came over and measured up my car for one, built a SS tank and I had it polished up. Then I had him build it with the filler tube going up to where it does. I didn't like it where it was suppose to be, I didn't want it inside the trunk, so I put that metal door in out of a RX-7 I think it was. Works good, He made me a 18 Gal. tank. The one that came with the car wouldn't work, with my Jag rearend any how.

I have room between the back panel of the pass. compartment and trunk to put a wall and mount things and on each side of the trunk.

Bob
 
#135 · (Edited)
streetbeast builds

poncho62 said:
Another bump.....and a question for you experts

Is this a Streetbeast?....Its for sale in Widsor Ontario for 13 grand.....

http://ontario.kijiji.ca/c-cars-veh...ibreglass-replica-kit-car-W0QQAdIdZ278593981#

Looking at the grille insert I would say yes, they are missing a bar from each side. Also it looks like the fenders and running board is one. I would say yes.

Also the firewall looks like street beast. the first ones looked more like a real 34 with a step in it this one sticks out from the top and goes down.

Bob
 

Attachments

#138 ·
Streetbeast builds

poncho62 said:
Looks like the guy got most of his parts anyways.......
poncho, I looked on that site you posted, the guys phone # was there so I as long as I get free long distance, I called him.

It's a street beast, which we knew, But you get a sbc, 4 speed, I think he said muncie, and ford rear end. He has also got a Must II front end, so you can get the A arms, and he has bought a brand new R & P, for it.

It is really the CMC kit, they are the same I know but he has everything with it. So there you go. :rolleyes: :mwink: :thumbup:

Bob
 
#139 ·
35terraplane said:
poncho, I looked on that site you posted, the guys phone # was there so I as long as I get free long distance, I called him.

It's a street beast, which we knew, But you get a sbc, 4 speed, I think he said muncie, and ford rear end. He has also got a Must II front end, so you can get the A arms, and he has bought a brand new R & P, for it.

It is really the CMC kit, they are the same I know but he has everything with it. So there you go. :rolleyes: :mwink: :thumbup:

Bob
Bob - I think Poncho needs a 'real' project plus it's already in Canada, so no duties :D

Dave w
 
#141 ·
streetbeast builds

poncho62 said:
Now I just need the 13 large........I think the wife would have something to say about that...... :nono:
Dave, I think you are right, Hell every things there, just slap it together.
Only thing I see wrong is he said sbc, not sbf. :smash: :spank: :pain:

The guy asked me where I was, because of my phone #. I told him, but I said I'm calling for a guy in Hanover, Ont. boy he got excited then.LOL :D :sweat: :thumbup:

Bob
 
#142 ·
#144 ·
brakes for SB

just got my frame out of FAB installing front and rear suspensions. ready to start brakes. what is generally used, F-body vacuum assist master cylinder from a bone yard or new stuff. I'm looking at new, but like the idea of getting the full package from an F-body, MC and e-brake stuff. :D
 
#145 ·
rakrick said:
just got my frame out of FAB installing front and rear suspensions. ready to start brakes. what is generally used, F-body vacuum assist master cylinder from a bone yard or new stuff. I'm looking at new, but like the idea of getting the full package from an F-body, MC and e-brake stuff. :D
Back in '92 when building my car I took both Master Cylinder and Power Booster from a wrecked 1989 Mustang LX and used both in my car. Did this because the wrecked Mustang LX was still basically a new car to me with only 30k on the odometer. Used the rear end out of the same car in my Street Rod Build. Emergency brake came out of an original Mustang II as recommended by Classic Motor Carriages at the time.
 
#146 ·
Streetbeast on YouTube

It's probably been posted before but there are lots of videos on YouTube, just type in Streetbeast... I saved a bunch of the vids from Southwest Rod and Custom for my build.. pretty much every aspect of the build there and some very good ideas too. Also lots of good visual info on doing bodywork of all kinds and fabrication, Pete is really talented, helpful for the beginner or even for those of us that have been building for a while. I'm always learning and at my age relearning. Pete has been a big help for me since I have 5 projects going and I'm always looking for new ideas.

Also I bought a really nice Mustang rebuilt factory-5 rear end for my 34 streetbeast at mpsautosalvage off eBay. They set it up like I wanted gear selection and all for less than $1000. Shipping was cheap, great outfit and very helpful... Good resource.
 
#147 ·
ffas23 said:
Back in '92 when building my car I took both Master Cylinder and Power Booster from a wrecked 1989 Mustang LX and used both in my car. Did this because the wrecked Mustang LX was still basically a new car to me with only 30k on the odometer. Used the rear end out of the same car in my Street Rod Build. Emergency brake came out of an original Mustang II as recommended by Classic Motor Carriages at the time.
I guess I missed this part - while they can be rebuilt, I have a problem using a clunk master cylinder from the junk yard. You are spending thousands to build a car, why cut corners here. Master cylinders are too cheap not to buy new - a new Bendix for an '88 Mustang is $37, the older ('86)version, $43 from Rock Auto Parts while a new '79 Corvette, the usual type used on a rod is $43. Equate your time wandering a salvage yard, plus a kit - dang cheap for a new one. Of course "factory" rebuilts are even cheaper yet. Power boosters, if you even need one for a 2800 pound car, a bit more. I have one in my '31 - I forgot to delete that option, but the brakes seem to work fine with it disconnected. If it craps out - it's gone forever.

Dave W
 
#148 ·
Wish those video's were around when I was building my 34 Coupe started back in 1992 but of course there was nothing like that available at the time so I had to rely on the manual Classic Motor Carriages supplied and my own knowledge gained over the years working on my different cars that I owned since the late 60's. The cheap way out is doing most of your finding of parts through the junkyard if you are looking for a rear,trans,engine and some other parts. Problem today is you may not find some of the parts you need and will have to buy new from some of the Street Rod Shops around. It could be a costly project when you add everything all up during your build. Ask around and see how much money others have put into their Street Rods and you will be amazed at how much was spent. I probably already mentioned somewhere on this forum that I purchased a front clip from a Mustang II back in '92 and used the factory stamped upper and lower control arms from it and rebuilt them with new ball joints and bushings. Most people building today and for years have been buying the Tubular ones from Street Rod Shops brand new. They can be expensive and add to your cost but they do look good. I also as mentioned used the power booster and master cylinder out of the '89 Mustang LX and the Rear End from it. I bartered a 350 Turbo Trans from a Transmission Repair Shop that I sell parts to being in the auto parts business and purchased my seats from someone else with another '89 Mustang LX. Most everything else that I can think of I purchased brand new such as my ZZ4 Series Engine but even found that pretty cheap still sitting in the crate that someone else did not use for a project at only $2100 back then. Actually it is the first of the ZZ4 series stamped ZZZ built in '89.
 
#149 ·
Irelands child said:
I guess I missed this part - while they can be rebuilt, I have a problem using a clunk master cylinder from the junk yard. You are spending thousands to build a car, why cut corners here. Master cylinders are too cheap not to buy new - a new Bendix for an '88 Mustang is $37, the older ('86)version, $43 from Rock Auto Parts while a new '79 Corvette, the usual type used on a rod is $43. Equate your time wandering a salvage yard, plus a kit - dang cheap for a new one. Of course "factory" rebuilts are even cheaper yet. Power boosters, if you even need one for a 2800 pound car, a bit more. I have one in my '31 - I forgot to delete that option, but the brakes seem to work fine with it disconnected. If it craps out - it's gone forever.

Dave W
I have to agree here that I wouldn't use a Master Cylinder that needed to be rebuilt either for as cheap as they are but in my case trust me I didn't use a quote: clunk master cylinder on my car when building it but I did use one from a 3 year old car at the time back in 1992 basically brand new with only 30,000 miles on the car including the Power Booster attached to it from that '89 Mustang LX I spoke about. Don't know if any of this stuff from the new Mustangs could be used but if so I wouldn't hesitate one bit from using these same parts with very low mileage on them if it would work with your car.
 
#151 ·
rakrick said:
that's good input guys, thanks. actually once i thought about that a bit, i came to the same conclusion. i have all new disk brakes why not keep the whole system new.
You do whatever you want when building these cars. Remember there are plenty out there building Rat Rods also using a lot of old parts from many cars. You can spend a ton of money going about it with all brand new parts. It depends on what is important to you for your car. Forgot to mention I also used the spindles from the Mustang II front clip that I purchased in the early 90's when building my car. When thinking about the list of items I had purchased its been so long ago that its hard to think of everything. There are those that will put a used engine in one of these cars. That is where the line stops with someone like myself as I put a brand new engine in my car. There is plenty of new stuff in mine and some rebuilt items in my car. Even if the part was used like the upper and lower control arms they were all sandblasted and rebuilt and painted before they went into my build making them as good as new.
 
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