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Street Beasts '34 build starts

95K views 401 replies 54 participants last post by  JGK95 
#1 ·
So we finally hacked down the majority of Sherwood Forest to get at the fiberglass shell of the '34 Ford-like body that was delivered to our garage and begun with the lug nuts that I scored off of a Ford Taurus. I thought I scored big time when i was at the local junkyard and scored four rollers (wheels/tires) with a fist full of lug nuts for $50 bux. When I finally tried to use the lug nuts, they were both metric and too small. It didn't make sense, how was this possible? This was after all, from a FORD Taurus?

It wasn't until we tried to mount the wheels to the IFS that we were about a 1/4th of an inch off of the wheel pattern and that the center hole was larger than the center of the wheels from a '97 Ford Taurus. These rotors have ball bearing caps at the end of them and I was caught off guard.

However, to have both the incorrect rollers and lug nuts was very frustrating and almost inconceivable.

So the current plan is to call the yard and see if we can work out a swap with them for some Ford Mustang rollers. I'm very doubtfull we'll make any headway with them, but I'll try.

Jay K.
 
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#152 ·
Well,

Sixty eight views and no responses means I'm greatly appreciated but prolly doing something different. I figured out how to use the Koul Tool and now I'm good friends with the steel braided line process. Remember, it's all in the grease! :D

Today we put down the floor, and for the very first time (in the many attempts to set it properly) it actually fit!

I'm actually cutting corners here as the floor was test fit numerous times previously, both in and out to where we felt like we were delivering lumber from a lumber yard. However, it was when we realized that the floor board was warped and not properly sized, that we were able to move forward. With a little TLC (and a TON of force) we actually got it set.

The real fun began when we were trying to set the floor board around the Viper transmission is when we realized that the trans tunnel is both too short and small for this kind of transmission. Additionally, the reverse lockout component on the driver's side of the trans and towards the back needs to be put back on the trans. This also willrequire us cutting out more of the fiberglass trans tunnel.

Lastly,

1). We hung the March Performance Power steering resevoir on the firewall next to the ididit steering ball in the firewall.

and
2). We cut the flex metal water hose that runs from the bottom of the radiator and ran it back to the March Perf. water pump on the SBC.

All in all, Today was a Great day.

Cheers,

Jay K.
 
#155 ·
Happy July 4th to you all!

The latest is that we've riveted the floor and door posts in completely. I now have the ability to listen for that certain frequency or sound prior to the drill bit drilling through the steel door post. It was quite an accomplishment to complete this! We also received our wheels and tires in the mail.

Enjoy the pics below and happy holidays.

July 3rd 2010








 
#156 ·
Here's the latest from this past weekend.

We added the throttle body cable from the carb to the firewall, planned out the accelerator pedal assembly with a test fit and inserted the thermostat in the driver's side head rather than in the intake manifold.

I'm really considering a Fuel Injected block for the next car we build!!

Enjoy,

Jay K.



 
#157 ·
No pics to add today, but we plugged up the intake manifold with three plugs and a 90 degree plumbing for water return on passenger front side closest to the radiator. We've been discussing the placement of the radiator as the SPAL fan from the fan shroud of the radiator rests on top of the March Performance pulley system. If we had only run a radiator on the car, we'd be very ahead of the game, but we wouldn't be able to mount the hood rails to the chromed out aluminum radiator. It's bad enough that the radiator doesn't have any rod mounting positions, but we'll figure it out.

Otherwise, all is good over here with pics following next week, as the welder stops by for more work to be done. We're looking at welding a fuse panel mount bracket, welding the clutch pedal thing-a-ma-jingie plate behind the firewall and some other stuff. The pics will speak better to what we're trying to accomplish than I can explain here. See you guys next week!

Jay K.
 
#158 ·
streetbeast

Jay I just got the post you sent me, said you had your welder fixed, and that you had a forum, so I thought I would take a look at it, looks like you are doing well, the car looks nice, I'm sending some pictures of mine, I don't know if you have seen these or not.
The 1st post you sent me you said you didn't know much about fiberglass and I have not read all 11 pages here, but you can't just put metal between two layers of glass it will start moving around they do make a two part epoxy that cost around $100.00 a quart that will let you put metal and glass together. anyhow just let me if I can be of help.

JUST GET HER DONE


35terraplane

P.S. one of the pictures is of my metal gas door, it has about 1/2" of metal around it.
 

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#159 ·
Hi everybody, I've run into a bit of a situation and I'm looking to you all for some help.

I'm looking for a new or replacement streetbeasts '34 convertible shell and cant find one on the web. Any help is good help and of course Thanks.

Jay K.
 
#163 ·
35terraplane said:
What ever you want to call it, why does he want a new body, is there something wromg with the one he has?

35 terraplane
I'm sorry for the ambiguity earlier, we had a fire in my garage last Friday and the driver's side interior back wall to door post section was burned very badly. Additionally, the floor where the driver's seat belongs, was also scorched as well. Lastly, we lost a significant portion of the gel coat outside driver's side door.

Perhaps there's glass guy on the board near Chicago, IL that can help us out?

Jay K.
 
#166 ·
JGK95 said:
I'm sorry for the ambiguity earlier, we had a fire in my garage last Friday and the driver's side interior back wall to door post section was burned very badly. Additionally, the floor where the driver's seat belongs, was also scorched as well. Lastly, we lost a significant portion of the gel coat outside driver's side door.

Perhaps there's glass guy on the board near Chicago, IL that can help us out?

Jay K.
Sorry to hear that jay.. :(
Wish you where closer.. That would be a easy fix.. ;)
 
#168 ·
street beast build

Hey it's not the end of the world, there is not a person on here that has not had some kind of set back. It's not the end of the world, it's just a car. Like NEW INTERIORS said it should be an easy fix. Like I had told you, I had to use 15 gals of resin on mine, and lots of glass, and I didn't have a fire. Just be glad the whole car didn't burn up, or worse yet someone didn't get hurt. Fire isn't one that I would be the one that put me down. Glass is pretty easy to work with and you will more than likely have some do overs but I think there is enough people on here that have worked with it, that will get you by. So read a street rodder or rod and custom or start cleaning up the car to do some repair work, but don't let it get you down, like I said before, it was made by man it can be remade by man.

Later 35terraplane
 
#169 ·
Jay, Not sure if you remember that my willys had a hole burnt through the roof and also the top of the door..It was a little work but a easy fix.. Fiber glass is very easy to do.. There's a lot here that will help as much as we can.. Like it was said ; Man made it.. and a man will fix it.. It will all work out.. Hang in there.. ;)
 
#172 ·
Here's the damage:





There's more in my gallery at photobucket. You can edit anyone of the picture links above to get there, but this is about the worst of it. The driver's side door post had fiberglass around it prior to the fire, but I really don't have the time to learn how to be a good glass guy. As it is, I work 30 hours a day in the IT field, so I need some external help here.

Just out of curiosity, can I reuse my existing rivets by fiberglassing around them or do I have to drill them out and redo them all over again?

Jay K.

ps. I've already contacted my welder to discuss the strength of the welds in that area post fire and await his on site review.
 
#173 ·
street beast build

JGK95 said:
Here's the damage:





There's more in my gallery at photobucket. You can edit anyone of the picture links above to get there, but this is about the worst of it. The driver's side door post had fiberglass around it prior to the fire, but I really don't have the time to learn how to be a good glass guy. As it is, I work 30 hours a day in the IT field, so I need some external help here.

Just out of curiosity, can I reuse my existing rivets by fiberglassing around them or do I have to drill them out and redo them all over again?

Jay K.

ps. I've already contacted my welder to discuss the strength of the welds in that area post fire and await his on site review.
Well it looks like it is all in the Q-panel area the inside is no problem at all. it needs to be sanded down and see how much glass is left. The top of the opening will have to be sanded to get those rough spots off, and more than likely put some glass there, to build it back up. I can't get a very good view of the quarter panel , are there holes burnt though, if so that might be a little harder if you have a big open space and have to fill it to the right shape, but it will still have to be sanded down to get rid of the burnt glass. I will let others step in here , they might have a better , or easier way but I think you need to get the burnt glass off first and clean that up before you get ahead of yourself. I would Hope that the welds were good otherwise I would worry about them all.


Later 35terraplane
 
#175 ·
Jay... I would start by grinding ''everything that is burnt no matter how much you have to grind out, And no matter how big of a hole you have to make.. You want to be sure you go far enough to get to good glass.. The big holes Is no big deal.. Once you get Reid of the bad stuff.. If you have a hole.. You can use anything that is flat to put behind the hole.. I like to cover it with duct tape..That way it will come off easy later.. You just want this there to glass against..Bevel all around the hole..Out about 2''.. Don't cut your chop mat.. :nono: You don't want a striate edge on you filler piece.. Tear all of your pieces.. That way you won't see a line after you finish... It will look like you never fixed it..If you have any problem.. Give me a call.. I can tell you better then I can wright.. :drunk: If you don't still have my #.. Pm me.. ;)
 
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