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  #136 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2010, 10:39 AM
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To straighten tubing coming off a roll I do much the same thing that CBoy illustrates but I leave it a few inches long so I can pinch the ends and put one end in the vise and the other in a vise grip.

Then you pull and twist a quarter turn, depending on how heavy the tubing is you might need a second body to help pull and tension the tubing. You end up with arrow straight tubing after it's been stretched and twisted slightly.

Trim off the pinched ends...voila perfectly straight annealed tube, old machinist trick.

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  #137 (permalink)  
Old 02-27-2010, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4 Jaw Chuck
...Then you pull and twist a quarter turn...
Wow, that's the trick we use in stained glass work for straightening the cames (the leading that surrounds each piece of glass). I had no idea it would work for tubing. I'll have to try it next time.
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  #138 (permalink)  
Old 02-28-2010, 07:14 AM
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Every time I visit I learn something. Great tip!!!
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  #139 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2010, 08:28 PM
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Apologies for the delay gents.

Work has beckoned and in this present economy, I had to listen!

In the first picture is the mock up of the fuel pump going forward with aluminum fuel line fed towards the motor and rubber hose headed towards the fuel tank. The aluminum fuel line will ultimately be replaced by steel.

In a realization of embarrassment today, I realized that I had previously mounted the fuel pump upside down and couldn't figure out why I required so many shims to get the fuel pump to line up with the fuel filter behind it. The first picture still has the incorrect length of rubber hose between the two components, but it's a start. The eventual replacement of incorrect rubber fuel hose length will happen shortly as it's my responsibility to complete the fuel line from tank to carburetor.

We have also started the passenger side door post. This doorpost and the one on the driver's side are the most difficult task when it comes to working on the frame. We wound up trimming two inches off of the top of the doorpost and further worked the hinge openings on the fiberglass body to 2 & 3/8'' so that we could open the door more than the recommended 1 & 1/2". At the latter measurement, we would only be able to get in the car if we were an envelope.

I'm presently receiving great help from Matt Dick of Dick's Autobody in Maine. I found him on the Streetbeasts website a month ago and he took time out of his day today to give us free help. I'm grateful to the man for his eagerness to assist my father and I, so I wanted to thank him and his wife here for letting me have a piece of their weekend to ask some questions.

Without any further delay, here are the pictures.




ps. View the last picture, does anybody doubt who owns the car?
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  #140 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2010, 08:49 PM
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Keep up the good work. I give you a lot of credit for sticking it out, I know you got a lot of flack in the beginning about your purchase.
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  #141 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2010, 06:35 PM
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Since those photos, I've reversed the fuel pump as I had it incorrectly mounted in those pics above and have learned to bend steel fuel line. Additionally, we've done the driver's side door post with hinges placed and completed the steering column.

Pictures coming this weekend.

Cheers,

Jay K.
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  #142 (permalink)  
Old 04-15-2010, 07:32 PM
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Great job Jay !!!! I knew when we talked on the phone you wasn't going to back off on this build.. You get an A+ From me.. Keep up the great work,And keep pushing forward..
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  #143 (permalink)  
Old 04-23-2010, 11:47 AM
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There's nothing that can ruin a thread quite like some stupid bozo from Communist China (named William... yea right!) trying to sell cheap Chinese crap to people who wouldn't be caught dead buying it. Please do us all a favor and take your junk back to China where it belongs. You may be able to sell this crap to some naive companies, but here in the hot rod industry we have standards. Standards that cheap Chinese knockoff junk can't match. So long, Mao!
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  #144 (permalink)  
Old 04-23-2010, 08:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Centerline
There's nothing that can ruin a thread quite like some stupid bozo from Communist China (named William... yea right!) trying to sell cheap Chinese crap to people who wouldn't be caught dead buying it. Please do us all a favor and take your junk back to China where it belongs. You may be able to sell this crap to some naive companies, but here in the hot rod industry we have standards. Standards that cheap Chinese knockoff junk can't match. So long, Mao!
?

What'd I miss?
--------------------------------------
Latest update...

Tomorrow's a big day for my father and I as we have a very talented welder coming to our one car garage to weld in all four door posts that we have presently held in place by self tapping screws. He'll reinforce them with support plates and solid welds. Overall, it's starting to look like a real car now! Fuel line is half way done as I didn't finish it last weekend. Perhaps I can get it done this weekend after the welder is gone.
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  #145 (permalink)  
Old 04-23-2010, 09:03 PM
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Quote:
?

What'd I miss?

most likely just a spammer who's post has been removed..
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  #146 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2010, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt167
most likely just a spammer who's post has been removed..
That is it, but the reply to the spammer should have been deleted also. More than likely it was a spam bot and not a real person so replying to it is pointless.

Vince
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  #147 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2010, 10:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 302 Z28
More than likely it was a spam bot and not a real person so replying to it is pointless.
I don't think it was a bot. This guy had selectively gone through threads to find the ones that had something to do with radiators or cooling issues then responded with his ad. Maybe a bot can do that, but I've never seen it before.

I responded to this guy in another thread just like Centerline did and my point was that we SHOULD keep his company name included so that people know to never deal with the guy or anyone he represents.

I agree that spam like cell phones etc. should just be tossed off completely, but this guy represented a company involved in hot rodding and aftermarket goods so I seems to me the case is a little different than your typical everyday spammer.
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  #148 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2010, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JGK95
?

What'd I miss?
cboy nailed it. Some guy named William from China trying to sell crappy Chinese radiators. I was in hopes that the mods would just have removed the links in his posts instead of removing the entire post because it was a little funny. Someone, obviously clueless, trying to sell cheap junk to people who would never even remotely consider buying it...... and whoever heard of a skinny little Chicom named William anyway?
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  #149 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2010, 12:42 PM
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Some promised progress from this past weekend.

What the pics don't also explain is that the structural improvement on the suicide door post was done by our welder who did a fantastic job by adding weld plates at the bottom of each door post. At the top of the post, each post is reinforced with a horizontal bar for door structural support. Streetbeasts planned out a decent build, but could've used an improved design at the bottom of the door post.

Pics below.








The other photos are of the dash framing with the self tapping screws used initially for mock up purposes.




Lastly, here's another shot of the transmission



The entire job was done via stick welding with a Miller. The power level was set at 21 and this thing was gas powered. It was a Very cool experience where I had the opportunity to even try my hand at stick welding. I was very impressed with the welder's patience, level of concentration and overall work. He enjoyed what he did and appreciated his work.

We even ground out the poor workmanship on the frame mounts from the original engine assembler and stick welded them to make the welds stronger. They were pitting and we hadn't even rolled this car out into the street!

Please enjoy,

Jay K.

ps. Check out the STEEL fuel line in the pic. I owe a debt of gratitude to the website for the recommendation.
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  #150 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2010, 01:55 PM
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Look's very good Jay.. But I think they should make the post bolt into the car like I did mine.. Have the whole floor glassed into the car.. Then make a plate that weld's to the frame and the car's floor sit's on the plate. Then the weld a plate to the bottom of the door post. then bolt it to the floor and through the frame plate.. Then you don't have a post welded to the frame and can't remove the car later if you need too. Not trying to put down your work Jay.. Just trying to give some help.. I still think your doing a great Job Jay..


The front frame under the dash,Can also be done the same way..
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