[JGK95]

Time for an update.

First thing we did as the front was starting to get buttoned up was change the profile \ rake of the Nose & grill shell. We needed to account for the radiator's stance so we moved the nose forward an additional 2" and recreated the lip on the front. The grill shell was also cut and extended.

Yeah, this ain't no ordinary "replica" "streetbeasts" build anymore, this is mine!

(Really, it's appropriate to thank the wonderful people at Windy City Rods & Restorations in Niles, IL)!

So without any further delay, the pictures:








The Dash pics too!




If you look in the gallery you'll see one of a guy you should all recognize.

[rakrick]

nice, i'm building a cab too! not that far along. your pix are just the inspiration i needed. i'm mocking up steering column this weekend. once installed and welding finished, i'll rip apart and clean up and paint the frame, then the fun body stuff begins. I'd like to make the body removable haven't quite figured that out yet.
nice job on yours.

[JGK95]

Originally Posted by rakrick

nice, i'm building a cab too! not that far along. your pix are just the inspiration i needed. i'm mocking up steering column this weekend. once installed and welding finished, i'll rip apart and clean up and paint the frame, then the fun body stuff begins. I'd like to make the body removable haven't quite figured that out yet.
nice job on yours.

Hi rakrick,

I'd only be too happy to help!

To make a removable body, the first thing we did was redo the front and back door posts. In redoing the front & rear door posts, we used “L bar” welded to the frame itself. The welding of the L-bar to the frame gave us a perpendicular flat surface to bolt both the front & rear door posts to the frame directly instead of welding the posts to the frame itself.

Now that the frame had mounting plates or a flat surface for each post we then welded “shoes” or flat stock on to each of the four door posts.

We then drilled 1” holes through each plate to run thick bolts through to anchor each post to the frame. For each front doorpost, we used a single 1” bolt & nut, & in the back we drilled two holes to mount the shoes.

Additionally, we modified the rectangular tube stock that connects the rear door posts to the trunk bar. Instead of welding it from the back moving forward to the top of the rear door posts. We welded the stock to the door posts and ran it around to the trunk bar where it was bolted twice on each side for rigidity. The door posts were then glassed into the door frame and cleaned up.

I do realize that a picture is many more words than I can provide so please navigate to my photobucket.com account and view the pics yourself. You’ll even see a pic of me with Gene Winfield in there with Jo Coddington in the background.

Hotrodders pictures by JGK95 - Photobucket

Cheers and keep the questions coming!

Jay K.

Ps. To also answer your floor curiosity, see the pictures on the previous page 14 of this thread.

Ps Again. Most importantly, the fiberglass floor should not be riveted to the frame like the build manual instructs you to do. Instead you'll want to split the floor and glass it to the sides first. Then glass it together in the center once the sides are nice & strong.

[JGK95]

Update:

The seats from Procar by Scat are now installed and the seatmounts from Streetbeast were modified and bolted to the floor. See the pictures below. Additionally, I took a photo for user rakrick to see the bolts for the door post that are mounted to the rear trunk bar for both removability and stability.

Three quarters shot of the Car with the doors open



Chairs mounts that are adjustable and using the metal stock that was welded to the frame.



Customized Seat mounts



How's this for a sight line?



Signatures of Jo Coddington, Gene Winfield and the sig file of Windy City Rods & Restoration of Niles, IL. who're building my car.



rakrick, this shot is the door post for the driver's side, but here you see how the door post is hinged to the trunk bar via bolts and welded nuts



Thanks for viewing!

Jay K.

[JGK95]

Separately, a big thank you to all of you. We're over 15k views on this build's progress!

Cheers,

Jay K.

[JGK95]

The Friday update!

The always cool 3/4ths view




The nose redone.



A wider perspective of the nose and it's being completely redone with a greater angle.


The passenger compartment is going with a show car style interior not a de facto appearance. My motivation is the 1953 Corvette.




The trans tunnel is being mocked up here. Still floating many ideas at this time.








The new look of the hood to suppport the grill shell.


The other side of the car.


I really appreciate the Guys who're building the car @ Windy City Rods n Restoration for their magic.


This car's coming along nicely!!

Cheers,

Jay K.

[rakrick]

nice, is that an aftermarket steering column? did you run a direct steering bar to the steering rack? I'm thinking of running u-joints to get the steering bar close to the frame so you don't see it with open side panels.

[JGK95]

Originally Posted by rakrick

nice, is that an aftermarket steering column? did you run a direct steering bar to the steering rack? I'm thinking of running u-joints to get the steering bar close to the frame so you don't see it with open side panels.

The steering column is an ididit that was sold by Streetbeasts at an additional cost. The column is then a direct fit over d-bar via u-joints to a power steering rack. Additionally, the d-bar is held in place by a frame mounted d-bar stabilizer.

Cheers,

Jay K.

[rakrick]

nice quick response, according to my measurements, i need a 30" steering column, does that sound right? I'm not sure if i'll go aftermarket or OEM. So the way your d-bars are, can you see it through the side panel opening along the engine?

[JGK95]

I don't recall the length of the steering column, but I'll answer you later in the week. With regard to the d-bar and it's placement, we didn't want it to stand out more than the headers, so we went with a steeper angle.

[rakrick]

Cool Thanks, going steeper with the D-bar angle is my plan too. good to know someone else did the same thing.

i appreciate your feedback
thanks
ray

[JGK95]

This past Friday's visit to Windy City reveals some secrets. See if you can find them.







Some pics for Ray aka rakrick





Next week will have much more completion of the front end.

That's all for now!

Jay K.

[JGK95]

The latest updates from Windy City Rods n Restoration are below. The painter of the car was testing out the factory 1967 Camaro yellow with a couple of different types of pearl finishes to see if we'd be interested in either finish.

As it stands, we'll be going with House Of Kolor's Lunar Yellow with a serious trick clearcoat. Remember, this car is more about the show than the go.

The interesting part of this build is the nose. We've molded the nose to the hood skirts for added rigidity as we won't be using hood rails. I've always felt that the hood rails were the square peg in the round hole.

Additionally, we've molded the front of the shell with a more aggressive nose by moving it forward about 15 degrees.

With no further delay, the pictures:

[JGK95]

I'm experiencing problems with photobucket.com lately that pictures are showing up one day and not the next.

So I'm apologizing in advance if photos randomly disappear, it's not nor never intentional.

The fact that a post on this website gets locked after thirty minutes of inactivity doesn't allow me to resolve the problem without creating a new post.

With no further delay, the Amazing Gents @ Windy City that are responsible for our Build!



The lip of the front end has been further extended to accomodate the advanced rake of the grill shell.









Our last problem of how to mount the hood at the firewall was a continual issue as we wanted to keep the hood clean. The team in the photo above resolved the issue by creating a beautiful solution as mocked up on paper and roughed out with the adhesives of the fiberglass. This'll blow your mind once it's finalized.





At the front of the hood is a different story, the hood will be kept down by a center located pin system. I'm certain, I'll have many more details to follow.





Lastly is the grill shell, after all this car started out as a "Street Beast!"


Another shot of the trans tunnel, but from the driver's side.



Thanks for viewing!



Jay K.

[123pugsy]

Looking good Jay.

Keep the updates coming.