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Hi Folks!
The updates this time include shaving the bumperettes off of the rear fender panel & cleaning up the door latch openings. By cleaning up the door latch openings, I meant that we had to build out the fiberglass to reduce the gap between both the door and the door frame. An additional discovery was the need for a solution between the front A-pillar and door window once the windows was up. However, that issue is addressed in the manual. The directive is to use an appropriate sized rubber bulb seal to make it weather tight and to prevent rattling. That's all for now, stay tuned! ![]() Jay K. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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Look Ma! No More Streetbeast!
It's an "OUR Beast"!! ![]() So the last of the tell's have been removed. Whaddya think? ![]() ![]() ![]() We've also now started on the trunk build out. ![]() ![]() BTW, the headlight mounts are from Speedway Motors and the headlamps were purchased with the car from SB. We (The boys at Windy City Rods n Restorations) also cleaned up the door post on the passenger side to reduce the vast gap between both the door and the doorframe. ![]() Additionally, the interior will go with the tuck 'n roll. However, we may be going with a different angle, if you know what I mean. ![]() ![]() Stay tuned! Jay K. |
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JGK95 (10-30-2012) | ||
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Your eyes are sharper than most! Nicely done. ![]() With regard to the "frame horns" or bumper holders, the plan is to shave them back or close them off at an angle at two to four inches behind the fiberglass lip. Jay K. PS. Glad to see you 'round these parts! |
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Vince |
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JGK95 (10-30-2012) | ||
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Glad to get back on the mend. All in all the car looks great even if you did farm it out, you could have done the work, might have took longer but your choice. It looks very nice. ![]() ![]() Bob |
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JGK95 (10-30-2012) | ||
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I'm no expert so I'll take your word for it! ![]() Hi Bob, Thanks for the nice words. You're absolutely right on every account. Even though I haven't put hands on the car since the fire, I have been involved in the direction of the build's design with recommendations from this website. The molding of the floor to the body recommendation came from both you and Randy. I really appreciate you both for that suggestion! Granted, to accumulate the skills that those two gentlemen have in the pics above would take quite a few years of time & dedication that I presently don't have. My father & I, we could've eventually built up an SB Roadster, but not to the level of talent that it has become today. Appreciatively, Jay K. Last edited by JGK95; 10-30-2012 at 10:16 PM. |
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Bob |
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Good job Jay !!!!
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JGK95 (11-02-2012) | ||
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Vince |
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Thank you Randy!
Your opinion means a lot to me as you were also the first person to give me pointers on how to make a something out of nothing. Thank you very much, Jay K. |
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NEW INTERIORS (11-02-2012) | ||
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window channel on top of door
I have a 34 sb cabriolet and have to replace the window weather strips on the top of the door that holds the window from rattling when rolled up...any suggestions on where to find anything to fit it...have looked almost everywhere i could find online...everything i have found has to be screwed or tacked on any suggestions would greatly be appreciated...thanks
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I'll ask the guys at Windy City when I talk to them this morning/afternoon & get you a response as soon as I know. Cheers, Jay K. |
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Hey All,
It's been a couple weeks so this week's update won't disappoint! First off, the space between the door post & the door itself was too large for our likes and as such, we reduced it. Perhaps it was for the purpose of a convertable top latching point? Neither here nor there, it's gone! ![]() ![]() Additionally, we worked on making a more uniform gap between the door & the body. The gap is presently it's default distance but there was always the issue of the inside of the door lip rubbing on the body as you attempted to open the door on either side. Those with the very tight tolerance either know what I'm talking about or you simply fixed the problem like we did via a dremel. ![]() Having finished the doors, the next step involved addressing the floor pan alignment to the door. Previously, we were yards apart when we split the floor pan 1&1/2" to meet the edge of body, (It wasn't that bad, but not close either! See previous pages for more pictures) and by building a decent floor pan lip we were able to sync up the shape of the floor pan to the door's shape. See below. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() and that was last week's update! Jay K. ps. NAC3809, I spoke to the Gents at Windy City Rods n Restoration & the suggestion was to either use double sided tape with an aluminum 'l-shape' and felt material on the front of it to control the window from knocking around or bevelling the 'l-shape' and allowing it to come above the window channel in the door's window opening. See the pic below, and look at that u-shape channel as two 'l-shape' channel pieces that have yet to be made. Whether you use adhesive or double sided sticky tape is your call. Regardless of methodology, apply the felt to the aluminum channel via adhesive and your now the proud owner of windows that don't knock around. ![]() Cheers, Jay K. |
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