So we finally hacked down the majority of Sherwood Forest to get at the fiberglass shell of the '34 Ford-like body that was delivered to our garage and begun with the lug nuts that I scored off of a Ford Taurus. I thought I scored big time when i was at the local junkyard and scored four rollers (wheels/tires) with a fist full of lug nuts for $50 bux. When I finally tried to use the lug nuts, they were both metric and too small. It didn't make sense, how was this possible? This was after all, from a FORD Taurus?
It wasn't until we tried to mount the wheels to the IFS that we were about a 1/4th of an inch off of the wheel pattern and that the center hole was larger than the center of the wheels from a '97 Ford Taurus. These rotors have ball bearing caps at the end of them and I was caught off guard.
However, to have both the incorrect rollers and lug nuts was very frustrating and almost inconceivable.
So the current plan is to call the yard and see if we can work out a swap with them for some Ford Mustang rollers. I'm very doubtfull we'll make any headway with them, but I'll try.
Jay.. Just remember when a glass car burn's,, It always look bad until you get Reid of the burnt stuff.. It won't be as bad as it look's trust me.. :thumbup:
Randy I think it's Randy, the only trouble with putting something behind it on a Street beast is I think he has the inner liner in it. and I thought that I saw a picture of the trunk all filled in, if there isn't a way to remove one or the other, unless he cuts one out, he will not be able to remove what ever he puts on the backside of the hole. That's why I said the hole might be a little harder. I agree with everything else, but I would bevel and put at least 12" wide strips the length of the hole, once the hole is filled and the glass dry it should be easier.
Mr. Bob.. I think the inner piece is removable.. If not it doesn't matter if he takes it out or not.. But if he wants he can make the piece a little bigger then the hole, Make the piece on a piece of glass,, Once it get's hard pop it off the glass.. Trim it to fit in the hole.. But make sure you bevel the hole and the piece.. Make like a ditch all the way around the two piece's.. Put a piece of duct tape to hold it into place.. Glass a couple of small spots just to hold it into place.. Then remove the tape, And glass the ditch closed all around.. Sand smooth, Then there's no more hole.. There's a lot of ways it can be done.. This is only one.. :thumbup:
Yes, the side panels inside the street rod are not glassed in yet. In that respect, I consider us very lucky! We'll be starting up work this week to ***** the damage and take better pics.
Yes, the side panels inside the street rod are not glassed in yet. In that respect, I consider us very lucky! We'll be starting up work this week to ***** the damage and take better pics.
Yes, the side panels inside the street rod are not glassed in yet. In that respect, I consider us very lucky! We'll be starting up work this week to ***** the damage and take better pics.
The Good News: Photos as promised are shown below.
The Bad News: Who knows how to gen up fiberglass molds for decomposed/burnt fiberglass bodies?
The imposssible: Do you all know a failed/given up on Streetbeasts 1934 Ford Convertible replica build for sale in your backyard/neighborhood?
I spoke to him already. Very nice guy and a Heckofa nice car. He wanted around $13K+ for it, which was more fair. It's just alot more than we can afford at this time. Dad is going to call down to SB tomorrow to see if anyone answers the phone, at all. It'd be great if we could buy just another shell. I visited a new bodyshop right outside of Chicago in Niles yesterday as well as spoke to another gentleman who was South of the city in Crestwood, IL. It seems that we have serious 'glass issues that would involve cutting, removing and reforming a new section that would require a new mold for all of the damaged fiberglass. That kind of requirement is clearly beyond my father's and my collective abilities at this time. The talent required for fiberglass is rapidly becoming a dying art as Corvettes are now fabbed out of Plastic and not fiberglass anymore. I didn't know that!
Hey Randy,
If you ever feel like making a road trip up North, holler at this Yankee that you're coming and we'll figure it out! :thumbup:
I spoke to him already. Very nice guy and a Heckofa nice car. He wanted around $13K+ for it, which was more fair. It's just alot more than we can afford at this time. Dad is going to call down to SB tomorrow to see if anyone answers the phone, at all. It'd be great if we could buy just another shell. I visited a new bodyshop right outside of Chicago in Niles yesterday as well as spoke to another gentleman who was South of the city in Crestwood, IL. It seems that we have serious 'glass issues that would involve cutting, removing and reforming a new section that would require a new mold for all of the damaged fiberglass. That kind of requirement is clearly beyond my father's and my collective abilities at this time. The talent required for fiberglass is rapidly becoming a dying art as Corvettes are now fabbed out of Plastic and not fiberglass anymore. I didn't know that!
Hey Randy,
If you ever feel like making a road trip up North, holler at this Yankee that you're coming and we'll figure it out! :thumbup:
I really don't think it's as bad as it looks it would be better if you had all the burnt stuff out of there then you would know for sure if you need molds or not, but when I was doing my body I was Just cutting and re-fiber glassing, I never had mold one. If you can get a good size roll of glass about 18" wide and the resin, some fiberboard that you can bend, and lots of wax paper, you can make a mold out of the thin fiberboard put the wax paper on it so the glass doesn't stick to the board and you start . You only need that if you have to take all the glass out, or if there are big holes. You need a fiberglass roller also as you need to roll all the bubbles out of it.
but first get rid of all the burnt glass before you spend any money on a body you don't need. You can get the other stuff later. When you take the gel coat off, do it with a sandpaper that will rough the surface up enough so it will hold bondo.
Jay Randy's right, what we both see is a little damage to a Quarter panel the inside and a little on the body, by the trunk, You don't worry about the gel coat, you don't have to worry about the inside as much, you will cover that with the interior. Like I said save your money, if you find a body you will more than likely not get just the body but the whole car, then you end up with a frame and what ever. For now just start getting rid of the burnt glass, and whatever you do , don't let some shop tell you that it can't be done or that you can't do it. AS far as I know there are still a lot of different users of fiberglass , and you are not working on a vette with a composite body.
Randy nice ride.
bob
Jay I would come down there but my wife has cancer, and it's hard to get away, she's doing good but I have over 30 surgeries , and she stuck by me so I should stick around.
A quick hit n run for you all. Found a body in another state. It been brought up and received today. Will be removing/shedding the existing shell and going forward. Any photos of how you guys ran your electrical would be greatly appreciated here as well. Additionally, did you guys put any grommets under the running boards? If ya did, would you tell me who's you used?
A quick hit n run for you all. Found a body in another state. It been brought up and received today. Will be removing/shedding the existing shell and going forward. Any photos of how you guys ran your electrical would be greatly appreciated here as well. Additionally, did you guys put any grommets under the running boards? If ya did, would you tell me who's you used?
I recall last year or two ago, reading about how a husband / wife team "beat the general by drilling out all of the rivets on their frame. "Score one for ingenuity" for the Happy Couple.
Fast forward to today. Dad 'n I are putting our heads together on drilling out the numerous rivets that we applied to both the strike posts back n front on both sides in addition to the ones on the floor.
Dad sez, "Let's drill!" I said, "F'THAT!!"
I went into the basement and grabbed a box of fluted 1-1/2" fluted masonry nails and with a 4lbs hammer, blasted the bejeezus out of the rivets and then pulled them out of the frame with the fork side of a 1-2lbs hammer. All 'n all it was a good night. We're back on track, and the car goes on Thursday to the speedshop for some additional help.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Hot Rod Forum
2.2M posts
175.6K members
Since 2001
A forum community dedicated to hot rod owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about restoration, builds, performance, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!