[1Gary]

What I seriously question is 500hp on a cast crank.

[cdminter59]

A cast crank will easily handle up to 500 horsepower. Some people have gone higher but forged is recommended for anything over 500 horsepower. I have read that forged cranks have been used for up to 1500 horsepower.

[vinniekq2]

[QUOTE=1Gary;1624362]5 Grand??.Price it out with a parts list please.Current pricing and no magazine articles ref's please.

I see $4500.oo for a stout engine to bolt the blower on to,before the cost of the blower.
G note for machine work alone.

[1971BB427]

I wonder if you'll be able to use 500hp on the street or the track with short bed PU truck? I guess if you add enough weight to the rear, and get enough tire under it you might get some traction.
The small 10 bolt's weak points are the posi and the axle size. I'd probably go to aftermarket axles that are beefier, and be sure to get an outboard bearing kit to retain the axles better if you do happen to twist one. The stock c clips will allow the axle to exit the housing if you snap one!
Probably going to have to address the trans too. Just building a 500hp engine is the beginning. After it's in there the rest the drivetrain needs to be upgraded to handle it and work.

[F-BIRD'88]

[quote=vinniekq2;1624443]

Originally Posted by 1Gary

5 Grand??.Price it out with a parts list please.Current pricing and no magazine articles ref's please.

I see $4500.oo for a stout engine to bolt the blower on to,before the cost of the blower.
G note for machine work alone.

Well you can waste your money as you like.

All you need is good basic block machining. stock GM Rods resized correctly,
stock GM crank reground correctly. and the low compression dished forged pistons.
rebalancing the crank is nice.

The short block is very very simple and basic.
The blower is not hard on the short block at all.

Id even build this motor with the KB hyers with the 21cc dish.
All that is required is the biger top piston ring end gap and correct low compression ratio and correct engine tune ( timing,jetting) and decent gas in the tank.

The forged -22cc dished pistons are the same price so.....

it is detonation (incorrect tune, crap gas, fuel lean out, excessive boost, excessive timing for fuel octane-compression ratio) and way excessive rpm ABUSE (7500+rpm) that kills motors, Not superchargers.

383 stroker cranks are inherently weaker than a stock 350 crank.

[F-BIRD'88]

build it exactly to spec and it will make a no sweat 500+hp at 6psi boost. (1.95:1 drive ratio, 30-32deg timing 92 octane gas)
It will never hurt itself.

If you want to unleash the hounds fill the gas tank with 110+ high octane race gas, crank the timing to 34-36deg
and swap on the 2.33:1 blower pulleys 7" crank 3.07" blower.
It will make 600+/- HP. (950cfm blower carb)
you had best hang on tight when you punch it.

Do not confuse the different tuneups.

Do not dummy it down with other engine parts.
The rocket science is already done for you.

[F-BIRD'88]

The 177 blower kit comes with a 1.71:1 ratio blower/crank pulley combo.

6" and 3.5" pulleys.

for hi boost street you can run a 7" crank pulley and the 3.5" blower pulley. (2.00:1 drive ratio)
(reduce the spark timing, when under boost and or increase the fuel octane 92++)
Make sure the motor is jetted rich enough when under boost WOT
do not get nuts with the timing or run crappy gas. 28 to 32deg is all you need.

For balls out race on 110++ race gas use the 7" crank pulley and a 3.07" blower pulley.
be sure it is rich enough under boost, sneak up on the spark advance.
This tune-up is more than you can ever use on the street.

Crap gas and excessive boost and timing-on crap gas, will cost you large.
Thats how you get into trouble with a supercharged motor.

The "out of the box" default 1.71:1 pulleys is more than enough power to burn off many sets of street tires
and go fast as hell on the street.

A stock distributor advance curve will not work.

[85chevy10]

Originally Posted by F-BIRD'88

Your only problem will be keeping tread on the rear tires.

Thats how i like it lol... I cant seem to find the MSD Boost timing master anywhere. Were can i find it?

[F-BIRD'88]

Originally Posted by 85chevy10

Thats how i like it lol... I cant seem to find the MSD Boost timing master anywhere. Were can i find it?

MSD 8762 must be used with a MSD ignition box or some other similar box

MSD 6462 all in 1 BTM CD ignition box

MSD 5462 "Universal" BTM ignition box.
can stand alone with any mag pick up distributor

or run on a GM HEI It has it own built in hi output inductive ignition amp.

or works with a MSD 6A box too.

Crane and Mallory have similar stuff
Daytona Sensors LLC - Engine Controls and Instrumentation Systems for Automotive and Motorcycle Applications

[Mark2268]

Everyone here has great advise so the one thing I can add is to do your research and match all of your components. I have seen so many guys mis match Carburator size,cams, compression ratio, valve diameters, single plane/dual plane manifolds even high rise manifolds create issues. You need to decide what RPM range you will be running, are you a stop light to stop light kind of driver or are you most interested in top speed. with some well thought out planning you can build a monster small block for $5k or less. Good luck when your finished you will need plastic surgery to wipe the smile from you face.

[1Gary]

[quote=F-BIRD'88;1624577]

Originally Posted by vinniekq2

Well you can waste your money as you like.

All you need is good basic block machining. stock GM Rods resized correctly,
stock GM crank reground correctly. and the low compression dished forged pistons.
rebalancing the crank is nice.

The short block is very very simple and basic.
The blower is not hard on the short block at all.

Id even build this motor with the KB hyers with the 21cc dish.
All that is required is the biger top piston ring end gap and correct low compression ratio and correct engine tune ( timing,jetting) and decent gas in the tank.

The forged -22cc dished pistons are the same price so.....

it is detonation (incorrect tune, crap gas, fuel lean out, excessive boost, excessive timing for fuel octane-compression ratio) and way excessive rpm ABUSE (7500+rpm) that kills motors, Not superchargers.

383 stroker cranks are inherently weaker than a stock 350 crank.

Wait a minute.Why am I re-grounding a 350 crank and then why is a 383 crank inherently weaker??. Kind of lost me there.

I said blower motors are jetted richer to avoid a lean condition so they don't get good gas mileage and you told us no that isn't true. But then you said a proper tune is re-jetting for a blower motor.

I do know cams for a blower motor are usually conservative in lift and you don't want much over lap.

Howards doesn't offer all the cranks just for the fun of it:

Chev SB with BB Snout

Honestly,if it was a customer of ours,we would recommend against a cast crank to the extent where if the customer didn't want to follow our recommendations,turn down the build.

You talk about re-sizing rods,but nothing about ARP bolts,treatment of the rods like shot-pinning(sp??) or anything else.

I mean you can get a decent set of forged rods for not alot of money.Why risk it??.

I think that is my point overall. Why risk it at all??. I do think about how our posts go over the world wide web and some guy who we never talked to or posted to does something really risky and loses thousands of dollars he can't afford. There is a certain amount of responsibly we need to be mindful in the advise we give. Marginal builds falls into the category.

Remember the approach of a "open book build"??. We do need to return back to that in it will provide a margin of safety in the builds we suggest. Nothing has changed in Hot Rodding. It costs money to go fast,if it sounds too good to be true,it is likely not,you don't get something for nothing.

This quote was intended to F-Bird.Sorry Vinnie,I don't know why it worked out like this.

[vinniekq2]

1gary,I read your whole post? I was wondering why you would think I was not being responsible. I often question how someone can build an engine so cheap? I dont post as many details as tech/bogie/paintedJ/ These guys I really respect and if I state something different,especially tech,its not in the form of an argument as much as a debate.The same applies to you 1gary,I believe you offer great advice too.If I dont agree totally its just an opinion.

[1Gary]

Originally Posted by vinniekq2

1gary,I read your whole post? I was wondering why you would think I was not being responsible. I often question how someone can build an engine so cheap? I dont post as many details as tech/bogie/paintedJ/ These guys I really respect and if I state something different,especially tech,its not in the form of an argument as much as a debate.The same applies to you 1gary,I believe you offer great advice too.If I dont agree totally its just an opinion.

Vinnie-as I said I quoted the wrong person.I intended to be F-Bird.

I read and enjoy alot of your posts too.Man,I'm sorry for the miss-understanding. And I do get your point.