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Old 03-12-2004, 07:57 PM
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striping soft paint

Been goin crazy the last week and a half with a paintjob thats will not seem to dry.Well....the other day i went my garage to check on my non-drying 800 dollars worth of garbage paint(i like to think of it as a sweater for my car cuz its soo soft) and decided to run my fingernail across the driver door.. what a mistake!
When i looked at the missing paint on my door i noticed that i just stripped the clear coat, base coat,mid coat and the sealer in one swipe of the nail and i smelled laquer thinner. I stripped a little moe and found that when i sprayed the laquer primer it probably didnt set up and i painted over it while it was still gassing.Therefore my paint wont set up cuz i put clear over a uncured layer of primer..the clear set up but everything below it was soft.
now i gotta strip my car.....whats the best way ?Chemical?Its seems as it would be.I need guidance.

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Old 03-12-2004, 11:02 PM
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stripping paint

Hello,
Sorry to hear of your troubles. Get yourself a razor blade scraper and a box of 100 single edge razor blades. Be very careful not to scratch the metal, this is a much cleaner approach than chemical stripper! If your fingernail removed it, then a razor blade should be no problem. Next time, use a urethane or epoxy primer.
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Old 03-13-2004, 07:53 AM
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Look someplace else for your problem, if the primer sanded dry, without making little balls on the paper, it was cured. 99 point 99 % of the cars on the road was painted with that system. It sounds like something you used was not compatible, or your dry times between coats was not right, or you wound up with to many layers of paint. Good Luck

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Old 03-13-2004, 08:41 AM
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I think your own diagnosis is right on. Laquer primer can breathe for a while after it's sprayed. Often sand scratches from bodywork can show up again even weeks after paint. I've never had your exact problem, but my boss has (he's got 30 years behind a paint gun)

He says it's best to leave a laquer primered car alone for a good long time before final wet sanding for paint.

Even then, a laquer topcoat on a laquer primer will breath better, whereas a poly topcoat will just hold all that stuff underneath.

I think the best solution is to avoid laquer primer like the plague.
Modern two part stuff is worth the extra money. (it's a chemical cure rather than a solvent release cure)

Good luck man, I feel for ya.

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Old 03-13-2004, 08:57 AM
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I have three body shops. I buy my primer in 60 gal. barrels, and in 45 years I have used a lot of it, and never had on problem with
paint not drying or not sticking. Like I said, look someplace else for your problem. Talk to some of the established body shops and ask there painters what they use.

Always sand the primer, no matter what kind you use down as far as you can, and still get the fill that you need, as this is all that primer is for.Fill and level.

Troy
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Old 03-14-2004, 08:26 AM
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6speed how did you go about mixing your paint, in the gun or in a mixing cup. Sounds to me like your mix ratios were all wrong I have seen this several times before. I do alot of painting over lacquer primer and have never had any problems like that. Use a razor bleade and strip every thing back off and the wet sand your primer, seal it and shoot again. Goat
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Old 03-15-2004, 09:50 AM
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excuse me ??????? lacquer primer works fine ? it has the sealing qualities of fishnet !, one coat of ppg 271/275 fills dents justas good as 10 coats of lacquer.

and the 271 seals perfectly in that ONE COAT, where as the laquer is just adding DEPTH to achieve sealing ability.

if the "old stuff" always worked just as good ... we'd have no use for technological advancement ...

strip with razor blades, don't dig into any body work in the process, prime with the GOOD stuff and repaint.

I've got a full size 68 Chevy 1/2 ton thats going to wind up totally stripped and painted by the time im done .... its going to be 100% epoxy primed . the interior, where stones and weather wont touch it, its getting cheaper epoxy, and everything outside will be ppg or something else just as good ...... PERIOD
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Old 03-15-2004, 12:29 PM
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All primer is used for is filling and leveling. That's all, The lacquer is the easiest to sand. Then use a urethane sealer, you will not have as much build up or mill thickness that way.
This 69 Camaro was painted in 95, there is not one blemish or
Shrink mark anywhere. It has never been beat for paint awards at any show it has ever been in.( more than 600 shows )

Troy.


































These are just a few, it's all the room I have. The rest have been boxed and given away, as for the trophies most were donated to car clubs and youth groups to be recycled ( About 400 ).

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Old 03-15-2004, 06:20 PM
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Troy, very impressive. Reach around and pat yourself on the back. Once I get the picture developed of the 72 Nova SS I did last year I'll post it on here. One of the main reasons I still use the lacquer primer is cost and at times when the customer supplies some of the materials that is normally what they get. My personal stuff I use the selfecthing, epoxy and urethane. When I get a higher priced job I use the urethane or if I get a job when the customer wants just body work and primed. I've never had a problems using lacquer and normally let it set for at least 12 hours before sanding to allow for shrinkage (if there is any). After 20+ years of doing body work most problems are caused by not following proper mixing procedures, not what is underneath.
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Old 03-15-2004, 08:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by troy-curt
All primer is used for is filling and leveling. That's all, The lacquer is the easiest to sand. Then use a urethane sealer, you will not have as much build up or mill thickness that way.
ok ... put it like that and i agree totaly. lacquer is GREAT primer/filler, then toss down some urethane primer/SEALER on top of it and your fawkin set! no bleed through, great paint adhesion and better rust prevention on chips and scratches ... you win all around like that
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Old 03-15-2004, 08:44 PM
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My vote is also for improper combination of materials. I used laquer filler primer on my S-10 with no problems. I did learn the shrinkage lesson on the hood where I got in a hurry. After the topcoat dryed I started noticing some faint scratch marks showing through. Most all of it buffed out, but I think there is something to letting it sit for a good couple of days before sanding, but that is just me. I am far from a pro.....

Chris
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Old 03-15-2004, 11:40 PM
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Yep, you should let it cure, as with any kind of filler, before sealing it.

Troy
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Old 03-16-2004, 04:57 AM
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Lessons learned the hard way.......I'll remember when I am repainting the hood this summer. Oh well, gives me a chance to do a pearl "Turbocharged" Emblem on the cowl.

Chris
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