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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2003, 01:52 PM
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2003, 01:59 PM
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Alright

Hey that's great. You feel how I do. While I am planning a blown 388 in the future, a 305 is great for right now. Yea it costs a little more for less power, but that's ok. My car is mainly for the street, and to eat people off of red lights. It won't need to rev over 6200 to make power, and it is streetable with about 350-400 horsepower. It also runs on pump gas and passes emissions (with a lean mixture and advanced timing). Thanks for the support, one day lots of people will follow in our footsteps.
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Old 12-13-2003, 02:27 PM
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I think that the longest available rods (and KB pistons to match) would be best if you are going to run the block 60 over, since that will reduce the thrust on the piston skirts, and lessen the chance of split cylinders.

I have never built a stroker motor, but I bet a long-rod motor keeps its ring seal longer for the same reason.

For heads, I think going with whatever the largest 305 chamber size is, combined with 1.84 intake valves (and some porting) like you find in the 416 heads. This would help keep a reasonable cranking pressure without needing an extreme cam (my flat-top 305 HO with a small cam gives 212 psi -too high for gasoline I think (propane burner)).
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2003, 03:03 PM
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Build on!

Sounds like a great plan. Let us/me know how the Torquer 305's work out. I am thinking of running a set on my 283.
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Old 12-13-2003, 03:10 PM
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LOL, sorry about my bore size, pretty lame since I own a 305. Should have looked it up, my point is that your end product is going to be the same price as a 383 (you already have the block...) and you'll end up with 50 fewer cubes and not a lot of rapping ability.

Anyway, sounds like a cool project none the less.

K

BTW blown birdy, if you want a street killer you build a low end motor! Get a big cube mild small block and you'll eat everybody on the street.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2003, 04:45 PM
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BlownBirdy

Now let's assume you really are 19, I am trying to help you. If you are going through all the expense to build a stroker engine Don't start with a 305 Go with a proven 350 all the parts and knowledge is out there and when you are finished I am assuming that it will work and if it does you will have a killer engine. Guess what? if you do want to sell it down the road you will have something of value to sell. I am sorry you do not have a father to provide you with sound guidance. Yes I do come on a bit strong and direct. But I have always stated things for what they are. Now go and look for a 350 and a stroker kit.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2003, 05:00 PM
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For the Record

1. I really am 19!
2. Leave my father out of this. He is very knowledgeable on engines and cars, and got me this far. My step mother and him race a 7-second alcohol Polara, so please don't get him involved. His expertise is in Mopar, which is fine by the way, so I was just checking on what he and I already thought about building a stroker chevy.
3. I already have a 71 350 sitting in my garage. It has been cleaned and prepped with angle 22 degree angle four bolt main caps. It is .060 over and destined to become a 388 stroker with a blower. I am taking my time with this engine because of the cost as well as the fact that I want it done right. It is a project. The reason I am doing a 334 is because I want to know that it can be done. Part of having a hobby is experimenting with different variables. I have heard stories of streetable 305s with decent hp, and now I want to build one. That's all. Many people actually like the idea that I am doing this and am pulling for me. I think it is an interesting concept and a rare idea at that.

Last edited by BlownBirdy; 12-13-2003 at 05:16 PM.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2003, 05:16 PM
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I already have a 71 350 sitting in my garage. It has been cleaned and prepped with angle 22 degree angle four bolt main caps. It is .060 over and destined to become a 388 stroker with a blower. I am taking my time with this engine because of the cost as well as the fact that I want it done right. It is a project


Kid

I would not build a blown 383 with and old rotten block bored-out to .060 Ask you step mom she will tell yaw the same thing.
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Old 12-13-2003, 05:27 PM
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a stroked 305 sounds pretty cool, but if you give it a long stroke and big pistons,wouldnt that be close to a 350 with 305 heads??
just seems to me you can do the same with a 350 block and 305 h.o. heads.with more compression than the stroke. and oh yeah, theyll both run out of air at the same rpm. just my thoughts mike.
can I ask a question, where the heck did we get auto parts?and why is he so rude??anyone ??
this demeanor is usually indicative of a penicularly small person trying to compensate for his shortcomings.lol mike
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Old 12-13-2003, 05:28 PM
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hey blown birdy, let me help you out here man. Go to auto-part's last post and hit "profile" Then scroll down until you see "add this user to your ignore list" I did it and I couldn't be happier! As for a 388, I'm building one now, you just have to have a good block to bore 60 over. Don't mind ap he's just a sad loser with no friends and he's jelous of your skill being so young because his crappy vette got eaten by a ricer! LOL. Just laugh man, don't get mad.



K
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2003, 05:31 PM
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Hey B-B! Just don't pay attention to auto-port, it's a cancer at this site. The good news, we can just leave it alone until it gets bored and leaves, it obviously knows that no-one here could ever take him seriously! I have seen stroked 305 run very well. You understand that it will be more expensive than a 383, but if it's still something that you want to try, Go For It!
Killer, I didn't realize that ignore blocked out the offending members comments completely! Thanks
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2003, 06:24 PM
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Nice Guys

Thanks everyone for backing me up, I can't tell you how much I appreciate it. I really don't take anything A-P says seriously because you guys really know whats up, and that is why I am here. I don't get mad, I just shake it off.

Oh yea, thanx for the tip on ignore K, I couldn't figure it out before but now I got it. About A-P getting eaten by a ricer, I thought I read that on a post from about two months ago and I laughed my *** off. I wasn't sure if that was really A-P though, so I kept my mouth shut. Thanks for solidifying what I thought I read. Keep up the great tips guys, I am learning a fair amount here, and that is kick ***.

I am trying to pull together everything I have heard, and this is where I am so far. I want to bore my 305 .040 over, resulting in a 3.776 bore. If I use the KB186 pistons with a 3.75 stroke, a 5.7 inch rod, and a 58cc head, I will be around 10.1:1. perfect. I will probably need some work though to make sure the rods dont nail the cam. I don't want the rod balance pads to hit either. Does that sound right? Now, if I want to use say a KB143 piston with the same crank, I will need 5.565 rods, but considerably less machining. I will have to use a bigger cc head to keep the c/r low, but with a 64cc head it should come out to about 10:1 even. The trade off for less machining is more expensive rods from what I can tell. I want quality parts, even though this isn't going to be a big race motor, and would like something comparable to a Scat or Eagle I-beam rod for this application. Eagle wants over 600 just for the rods though, and they are only in H-beam form. I don't need rods that can handle 700+ horse for a 300+ horse motor, right? However, I also realized that a stock chevy 400 has 5.565 rods. From what I have seen, though, these are harder and harder to come by. And even if I find a set, can they be cleaned up to work in this application? I know this is going to be an expensive motor to put together, but would it, on average, be cheaper to do the more expensive 5.565 rods with less machining, or the much more economical (brand new on ebay for 200-300 bucks) 5.7 rods and pay for the machining? I bet it depends on the shop and what they need to do, huh?

I also have to compare heads. If i go with the shorter rods, I can use the S/R Torquer heads as planned which are substantially cheaper than a 64cc head. Also, the torquers have 170cc intake runners, and 1.94/1.5 valves. I don't want over 200cc on the intake side, and the same research suggested I should stay away from 2.02/1.60 or larger valves. If it helps, I plan to use the comp extreme 256 or 262 cams because they have good midrange power. Maybe my theories on breathing are wrong.

Now that I think about it, I think I answered my own question.

Conclusion: 3.75 crank, 5.7 rods, KB186 pistons, comp cam, 305 torquer heads with 170cc intake runners, 1.94/1.5 valves and 58cc combustion chambers. Any thoughts?

Last edited by BlownBirdy; 12-13-2003 at 06:24 PM.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2003, 06:50 PM
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Hey why not make a cheap stroker out of it. I have done this many times go with 400 short rods. I have built them with 5.7 6.0s and also short rods. There is not much of a difference on the street. I actually liked the short rodded version better on the street. Felt more torquey(probably placebo effect). And after 60000 miles there was no extra wear on the short rod version. Maybe it will be more notisable with more miles but hell. You can even use stocker pistons which are extremely cheap with the short rods.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2003, 07:27 PM
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I have a set of 416 casting 305 h.o.heads and they are 185/155?
I really don't think you could go to 202 165 as there isnt enough room to unshroud the valves as they are.i'm not sure about this but by the looks you'de be hard pressed to go bigger than 1.85.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2003, 07:43 PM
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i have a set of h.o. heads with 1.94 1.50 but by the looks of em i agree there is no way to get 2.02's in em
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