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Old 02-11-2009, 08:24 PM
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stroker 383 mopar questions

I have a 383 from a 69 plymouth fury.I found a 440 for sale. I look in this book I have and I found out that if I put the 440 crank in my 383 i will have a 426 minus whatever gains from my over boar. The 440 is a 67 b engine i think-D440B/ 25364305 date 3 15 67.
A.) wil this crank fit my mains?
B.) what kind of clearance issue would there be?
c.) will I need rods .375 shorter than what i got or .1825 shorter?
D.) anyone ever done this before?

This engine will be going in a 1965 barracuda. I cant do a 440 cause its to wide as it is, a 440 will split my tires. A small block is to expensive, i gotta make this engine work. is it likely this crank is steel, how would I tell? I plan on a .040 over boar 10.5 to 11. compression. Aluminum rods and pistons to save weight and eventually aluminuim heads and intake and all that. Any other input would also help, should i go forged steel for some reason? or hypereutectic? mild street/strip closer to strip on the street but i want the power band no higher than 2500 to 8500- shooting for 1500 to 6000. I have a 4 speed but need a housing. Thanks for reading I look forward to the input.

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Old 02-11-2009, 09:46 PM
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Old 02-11-2009, 11:02 PM
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Mopar 383 stroker

The 383 and 440 dimensions are not the same. The 383 is considered a low deck and 440 is a RB-raised block. To put the 440 crank into the 383 block you need to have the main journals on the 440 crank turned down to the 383 main journal size. With a .030 overbore you end up with a 434 or close to that. Some sources are www.440source.com. Another is www.musclemotorsracing.com. Another is www.hughesengines.com. These are all Mopar specific businesses and will lead you right. A more popular combination is using the 400 block and coming up with a 451. Very good torque motors although you can get up to 500 cubes out of the 383 with other stroker cranks that are available from the above listed places. Myron
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Old 02-12-2009, 11:26 AM
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Old 02-12-2009, 12:39 PM
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Yea, the B and RB which means "raised block" are of different dimensions, taller and wider is what it is. Not a lot but a difference, enough so that when Chrysler was putting 383's in the A body's and then went to the special order 440's, they outsourced it to make em fit, not a lot of 69 440 darts or Cudas out there but they were made. As lemondana said, the 400 block and 440 crank kicks *** and is a very popular mod. If you indeed have an all original 67 440, you more than likely have the 915 heads with it with the big valves, int 2.08 and exh 1.74 and closed chambers that will help on the compresion using flat tops. 67 crank is steel. 1500 to 6000 range in a 65 Cuda will be a complete torque monster with a mild rebuild using the 915 heads on the 383 you got now. Stay conservative on the cam, let the cubes and compresion with a good *** end, 8/34 with some 3:91's propel you to bliss!
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Old 02-12-2009, 12:42 PM
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Yea, the B and RB which means "raised block" are of different dimensions, taller and wider is what it is. Not a lot but a difference, enough so that when Chrysler was putting 383's in the A body's and then went to the special order 440's, they outsourced it to make em fit, not a lot of 69 440 darts or Cudas out there but they were made. As lemondana said, the 400 block and 440 crank kicks *** and is a very popular mod. If you indeed have an all original 67 440, you more than likely have the 915 heads with it with the big valves, int 2.08 and exh 1.74 and closed chambers that will help on the compresion using flat tops. 67 crank is steel. 1500 to 6000 range in a 65 Cuda will be a complete torque monster with a mild rebuild using the 915 heads on the 383 you got now. Stay conservative on the cam, let the cubes and compresion with a good *** end, 8/34 with some 3:91's propel you to bliss!
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