They make a ton of torque. You will need to have the block checked for rod clearance on the sides, most of the time the rods will hit the block, need a min. of .030". Need a small base cam and will also have to clip the rods on no. 2 and no. 6 to clear the cam. Other then that it is cut and dry. . . oh yeah, stroker oil pan with rail notches.
They make a ton of torque. You will need to have the block checked for rod clearance on the sides, most of the time the rods will hit the block, need a min. of .030". Need a small base cam and will also have to clip the rods on no. 2 and no. 6 to clear the cam. Other then that it is cut and dry. . . oh yeah, stroker oil pan with rail notches.
thanks,
May be i will be better whit the iron Eagle Block , they have a raised cam all will be new so raised cam mean only pushrod lengh diff & timing chain non standard right, all the rest will be std right ?
and who is making oil pan for stroker, what the diff. in the pan ?
No you don't want the raised cam block. . . very expensive there. Clearancing is common and any machine shop can do it. Oil pans are available from Milidon, Moroso, and us which is Stef's Performance.
No you don't want the raised cam block. . . very expensive there. Clearancing is common and any machine shop can do it. Oil pans are available from Milidon, Moroso, and us which is Stef's Performance.
If you want head snapping torque (torque is the only real measurement) then get something in the 200cc range. If you want HP then go with something in the 220 range.
Intake will be a little restrictive, these engines like single planes.
If you want head snapping torque (torque is the only real measurement) then get something in the 200cc range. If you want HP then go with something in the 220 range.
Intake will be a little restrictive, these engines like single planes.
If your going to be building a big cubic inch small block, maybe you should look at http://www.worldcastings.com/ they make HUGE (415-454ci) small blocks with tons of power. Check out the site and see what they put in their engines.
I would advise getting the newer block with the raised cam, then you do not need a small base cam, rod clearance no problem, less grinding and balancing, stronger block as well.
Most blocks especially GMs come with the relief clearance for the rods to block already done.
It is the ONLY way to go.
Just make sure for dry or wet oil sump.
It depends on how much money you want to spend. I would get a good block and you can upgrade from there.
Here is GMs site, their parts came down in price and SPO is open to the general public for discounts, even cheaper if a relative works for GM and gets them for you. A 504 small block can be made with their parts, on pump gas. http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/gmgoodwrenchjsp/perfparts/category.jsp?section=ep
I would advise getting the newer block with the raised cam, then you do not need a small base cam, rod clearance no problem, less grinding and balancing, stronger block as well.
Most blocks especially GMs come with the relief clearance for the rods to block already done.
It is the ONLY way to go.
Just make sure for dry or wet oil sump.
It depends on how much money you want to spend. I would get a good block and you can upgrade from there.
Here is GMs site, their parts came down in price and SPO is open to the general public for discounts, even cheaper if a relative works for GM and gets them for you. A 504 small block can be made with their parts, on pump gas. http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/gmgoodwrenchjsp/perfparts/category.jsp?section=ep
What small block in GM is equivalent to the little M ?
If i look to this one very more costly than a dart one ;
22551790 Cast Iron Rocket Block (Tall w/Wet Sump)
This cast iron block is precision machined and does not require additional "blueprinting" to correct production tolerances. All block dimensions are machined to +/- .001". The block's extra-thick siamesed cylinder walls provide a minimum .275" wall thickness with a 4.125" bore. The cylinders can be bored to a maximum of 4.155" diameter. This block also uses the standard GM small-block V8's 4.400" cylinder bore centerlines. The outer water jacket walls are scalloped to enhance coolant flow around the siamesed cylinders. This block is available with deck height 9.325" (.300" taller than production). The reinforced deck has a minimum .625" deck thickness, regardless of the deck height specified. The head bolt holes are blind-tapped and the head bolt bosses are freestanding to minimize cylinder bore distortion. The three steel 4-bolt center main bearing caps have splayed outer bolts. The 2-bolt front and rear bearing caps are retained with studs. Blocks with standard deck heights use 2.45" main bearings; tall deck height blocks use 2.65" main bearings. This block uses a pre- 1985 two-piece small-block rear main bearing seal. Compared to a production small-block V8, the Rocket block's camshaft is raised .390" (4.912" camshaft-to-crankshaft centerlines). This relocated camshaft will clear a 4.125" stroke crankshaft without interference, eliminating the need for a small base circle cam when using a long-stroke crankshaft. This block uses big- block V8 cam bearings. These larger cam journals allow the camshaft base circle diameter to be enlarged, which enhances camshaft strength and reliability. The lubrication system has been revised. This block has a "priority main" lubricating system that directs oil to the main bearings before the cam bearings. The main oil gallery is located next to the camshaft tunnel: oil can be pumped into this gallery through a boss above the timing chain cover or through the bellhousing flange behind the #7 cylinder. In wet sump versions, the rear main bearing cap is machined for a standard oil pump. The oil pan rails are spread .800" (.400" per side) compared to a production small-block V8. These pan rails will clear up to a 4.125" stroke crankshaft in tall deck blocks with minor modifications. Other additions to this block are: dual starter mounts, production bosses for side and front engine mounts, and provisions for a block-mounted mechanical fuel pump.
Part Number.....22551788............22551790
Deck Height......9.025"(std.).........9.325" (tall)
Oiling System...Wet Sump...........Wet Sump
Main Bearings...2.45" (350-type)...2.65" (400 type)
Bore Diameter...4.000"-4.190"......4.125"-4.190"
Modifying the block is minimal. The rasied cam stuff is expensive with cams needing BBC journals, a jesel belt drive, or gear drive, special oil pan for the DRCE rails. Just in extra expense you are looking at around 2000K. Grinding the rails and clipping the rods would be around $200.
Modifying the block is minimal. The rasied cam stuff is expensive with cams needing BBC journals, a jesel belt drive, or gear drive, special oil pan for the DRCE rails. Just in extra expense you are looking at around 2000K. Grinding the rails and clipping the rods would be around $200.
The block will be preped at the machine shop so the cam bearing will be installed on it, btw for the gear i think yes, i whould need someting specific here btw... But a good gear set is around 200$ right ?, as the pan is not to mutch as whell. Btw i think i will need shorter pushrod also ?
Lot of thing to think
i need to know all not missing some important stuff
It takes all special parts. If you move the cam .400" up in the block then the cover and std. chain will not fit. That block is serious race piece. So that said it is serious $$'s to build.
It takes all special parts. If you move the cam .400" up in the block then the cover and std. chain will not fit. That block is serious race piece. So that said it is serious $$'s to build.
I need power for my Trans-am..
Right now a fresh rebuild 350 430hp (performer RPM)
but... Not enough
i'm looking everywhere right now to get price etc ...
i will see if i go for it when i know all cost, i'm currently waiting from machine shop to get a price for the Raised cam dart block whit 421 rotating assembly shortblock assembled, will see the price then think after.. I want to have money to finish it for the end of the winter...
Btw sorry for my english .. Not realy perfect
:thumbup:
thanks,
May be i will be better whit the iron Eagle Block , they have a raised cam all will be new so raised cam mean only pushrod lengh diff & timing chain non standard right, all the rest will be std right ?
and who is making oil pan for stroker, what the diff. in the pan ?
421 is an awesome engine that's what i had built , try the dart shp block $1400 to $1500 fully machined except the final hone , if you run a full roller setup you will need 300 thousands taller lifter if using vertical bar design ,don't know your budget but there are stroker designed rods just for your application . As for the oil pan jegs offers their brand that works perfect on this block if i remember it is a 6 qt pan with stroker clearence for a 3.875 stroke around $150.
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