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Old 02-05-2008, 08:17 AM
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Stroker Questions

Hey man I have a 350 chevy small block in a 1991 pontiac firebird it smokes a little so I'm going to try to turn it into a 383 stroker. I know that I will have to get a 400 crank and have it turned but thats about all I know! So could you tell me what else I will Have to do to make this possible?

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Old 02-05-2008, 10:30 AM
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Jason,

That is the more difficult and costly of the two options for a 383. What are you planning on using this car for? if it is not going to be drag racing all the time and you are just looking for a little more performance than there are many kits out there that come with everything you need to turn your engine into a 383. This is the best one I have found at the most reasonable price for anything under 450 HP and 6000 rpm. All you would need to re-use is your block and the kit comes with the rest. (as far as rotating assembly goes. I would be more than happy to help you come up with a killer combo that is affordable, there are some problems that you will need to avoid with this change and I can tell you all about them if you want later.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SB-CH...em360019767167
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Old 02-08-2008, 12:36 AM
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I bought my kit at Jegs, it was the best price for a balanced assembly. Most have to be balanced after you buy it, I'll get this one checked anyways just in case. Shipping from them is also very reasonable. I've heard these are better than the Eagle kits from this and other forums, I think it has something to do with distortion on the rods big end. Not sure which one you'd need as mine was a 1980 block with the 2 piece seal.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...71035_-1_10759

CNC was also cheaper but needs balancing:

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/category.asp?CtgID=9001

Sean.
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Old 02-08-2008, 01:57 PM
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You might ask some others in here but I would definately suggest 6" rods. There is a HUGE advantage as the piston will be TDC longer which decreases the chance of detonation and allows the use of lower grade "pump" fuels all the way to 11.5:1 compression. I know this from experience, my buddy has an engine that we did a 383 stroker build on and disovered a crack in the block after we were all done (actually had about 300 miles on it). When he had the replacement block machined, he bought 6" rods and had the block clearanced for them. We were then able to use pump gas, with no problem. Before the change, we had to use 110 racing fuel. He had 11:1 compression.
No change in his ET either, which was weird, we were expecting to gain some snap.
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Old 02-08-2008, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bat 21
You might ask some others in here but I would definately suggest 6" rods. There is a HUGE advantage as the piston will be TDC longer which decreases the chance of detonation and allows the use of lower grade "pump" fuels all the way to 11.5:1 compression. I know this from experience, my buddy has an engine that we did a 383 stroker build on and disovered a crack in the block after we were all done (actually had about 300 miles on it). When he had the replacement block machined, he bought 6" rods and had the block clearanced for them. We were then able to use pump gas, with no problem. Before the change, we had to use 110 racing fuel. He had 11:1 compression.
No change in his ET either, which was weird, we were expecting to gain some snap.

I feel like this statement is incorrect in a whole bunch of different ways. One thing I am stuck on is how the piston stays at TDC longer (and how that would prevent detonation) with a 6 inch rod and how changing a rod can enable you to drop 12 octane.

I think that maybe your buddy had the cam or timing advanced the first time and the second time he set it correctly.

I don't want to argue or anything I just don't see that happening. Maybe you could provide some supporting evidence (like a magazine article or another thread that covers this)
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Old 02-08-2008, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason87
Hey man I have a 350 chevy small block in a 1991 pontiac firebird it smokes a little so I'm going to try to turn it into a 383 stroker. I know that I will have to get a 400 crank and have it turned but thats about all I know! So could you tell me what else I will Have to do to make this possible?
Since I see this is your first post, I would suggest using the search option at the top of the page. It will give you hours if not days of reading if you look up "383".
As far as the 6" rod goes......yes it has advantages. A longer rod allows for a lighter piston which reduces recipricating weight, it reduces side loading on the cylinder walls and there is an effect on the dwell tme at TDC. However, a 6 inch rod by itself will not have any dramatic effect. It takes alot of pre-planning and post-tuning to make 11:1 work on pump gas and although the longer rod may help, it's not the guiding light by itself.
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Old 02-08-2008, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgo70
I bought my kit at Jegs, it was the best price for a balanced assembly. Most have to be balanced after you buy it, I'll get this one checked anyways just in case. Shipping from them is also very reasonable. I've heard these are better than the Eagle kits from this and other forums, I think it has something to do with distortion on the rods big end. Not sure which one you'd need as mine was a 1980 block with the 2 piece seal.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...71035_-1_10759

CNC was also cheaper but needs balancing:

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/category.asp?CtgID=9001

Sean.
Not to say what you bought was a bad kit but i just bought the kit that doubleV is talkin about and i gotta say i was extremely impressed. It' s all Eagle parts and is already balanced. It comes with everything you need and in all sizes and is $500 cheaper then most comparable kits. By far one of the best deals on the intronet.
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