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Old 03-17-2003, 12:34 PM
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As already pointed out, you need to be careful with strut rod eliminator type A arms. Those that use a gussetted piece of tubing, all welded to the cross member, are a joke. There isn't enough support there for the rigors of daily driving. Those that use a welded on bracket with a pivot are better, mostly because they are wider and weld on in a different place. The only problem is the weld on bracket isn't very big, and it depends on who does the welding. Get the metal to hot in the weld area, and you create a weak spot (hard and brittle, actually, which cracks easier than the original metal). Frame rails are generally a high nickel steel or hardened to some degree, which makes them harder to weld without creating brittle hard spots. A properly designed bolt on bracket would be better for daily driving -- I think the original Ford frame mount bolts on, I know the AMC (62-83) suspension uses a bolt on bracket that had NEVER been known to crack, nor the locations in the unit body. It has three 1/2" bolts holding the bracket on. Those rods (AMC) ar in compression (rear of the lower arm), not tension (front of the lower arm) as in some Ford designs. I think the Mustang II uses a compression strut as well. The lower arms with extension and gussett on an aftermarket cross member are a different story -- they are usually more robust than the stock cross member, and mild or chrome-moly steel instead of high nickel or hardened. Makes a difference once welding heat is applied! Heidts makes a good looking tubular replacement, but it needs a bolt on frame bracket instead of weld on tabs in my opinion.
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