I'm replacing the rear leaf springs on my 66 mustang and i'm stuck on the front bolt and nut, it just wont budge. I've tried a rust remover, and using a cheat and vice grips as well as the combination of the two, still nothing. Any suggestions on what to use?
04-23-2006 11:36 AM
I have had to use a torch to heat the nut in order to get it off on things like that..most likely will burn the rubber bushing tho so have a charged garden hose handy when you do that..
Sorry..been there done that..
04-23-2006 01:51 PM
I'll agree with Sam, however I do need to add one thing. If you don't have access to a full-size torch (I don't either), I use a MAPP gas torch kit for the stubborn stuff. I works for me. But it does take a couple of extra O2 tanks to get the heat setting right.
In a while, Chet.
04-23-2006 02:11 PM
try P B Blaster sovlent
04-23-2006 02:49 PM
Quit playing with it! :nono: cut it off and be done with it. If its that rusted your going to need to replace it anyway.
04-23-2006 07:05 PM
I haven't tried it personally, but lots of folks swear by Coca-cola or Tabasco. PB Blaster is what I generally use...
04-24-2006 03:39 PM
I would go right for the cut-off wheel. Those things rust solid down there.
04-24-2006 04:10 PM
a third vote for a cut off wheel or grinder.....only way 95% of the time
order new ones with the new bushings from any mustang resto house
04-24-2006 04:59 PM
Originally Posted by steve t
try P B Blaster sovlent
Blaster is the best! :thumbup:
04-24-2006 06:30 PM
Plenty of heat, and then squirt water on it. Repeat if necessary. This usually works good. It looks like this works best if this heat & water trick is done before any other chemicals are sprayed on to loosen the nut/bolt.
04-25-2006 10:41 AM
I'd go for the heat also... :D :cool: Heat it up hit it with a hammer then a good long 4' bar on your socket wrench.
But if you don't have access tho these, a cut off wheel is your best friend..
Just did a lift on a jeep and was able to salvage half and cut half.
04-25-2006 02:15 PM
If you are going to use a penetrating oil tap the bolt as you are spaying the oil and tap it again every few minutes while you wait. The oil seems to penetrate better when the bolt is vibrated.
After I spray with PB Blaster...I use a 6 point socket and a impact wrench to vibrate it. If you use heat...do not put water on it, that will harden the nut or bolt and make it brittle and it might break on ya. If you heat it..let it cool a little then try to loosen it.
04-25-2006 09:55 PM
A technique I've often used on tough plumbing or boiler connections is to put a heavy metal backup mass such as a heavy hammer or piece of steel against one flat of the nut and then smack the opposing flat with a hammer. This has the effect of momentarily ovaling the nut by a few thousandths to break the rust bond on the threads. For plumbing unions, usually a pair of big pipe wrenches works. For smaller nuts, I use a couple of hammers but you may need to use metal block (such as a bodywork dolly) and a large punch to get an accurate sharp blow, which may necessitate the use of a third hand. I have gotten creative with bungee cords or duct tape when no help was available. It's important to have as full and accurate contact on the flats as you can or you may just deform the nut permanently, plus you don't want to miss and smash the exposed threads of the bolt.You may need to go around several times on adjacent flats, and use more PB Blaster. If nothing else, this helps the penetrating oil penetrate. Don't try to smash the nut, you want it to spring back to round.
04-25-2006 10:06 PM
PB Blaster is a good penetrator if you let it work for a few hours or days if you have the time.
Just as effective is wintergreen oil from your local pharmacy.