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Old 08-10-2008, 09:39 AM
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Stuck O2 sensor

Trying to change out my oxygen sensor today (2001 Buick Regal GS) and the G-D thing is stuck tight. I tried letting the car run for a while to heat things up (~heat wrench) but no luck. I went as far as putting a large 1/2" drive breaker bar on it and I am afraid I'm going to break something.
Any tips would be appreciated.

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Old 08-10-2008, 11:10 AM
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I think some penetrating lube and muscle should be all thats needed!
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Old 08-10-2008, 11:25 AM
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After its good and warm spray some "PB Blaster" on it and let it soak a little bit then spray it again. P.S. WD-40 is NOT the same. After you get it out, Make sure the new one has "anti-seize" on the threads before installing it.

Last edited by HalfOunce; 08-10-2008 at 11:27 AM. Reason: addition
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Old 08-10-2008, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HalfOunce
Make sure the new one has "anti-seize" on the threads before installing it.
LOL, I don't think I'd be having this problem if the last person to do the job would've done the same.
My penetrating oil has disappeared but there is plenty of PB Blaster at work, so I will hit it when I go in tomorrow and try again.
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Old 08-10-2008, 11:58 AM
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Stuck O2 sensor

that heating up and spray works great , causing expansion and contracting
the metals .
use one them map gas , yellow bottle , will get it glowing .
then throw the liquid to it .
i've found out that after it cools down all the way , it comes out easier than trying right away .
this lets the penetrate get in better on all treads .
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Old 08-10-2008, 12:12 PM
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The info above is all good. Let me just ad that sometimes applying torque in the tightening direction first can help break the rust loose.
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Old 08-10-2008, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rhansen
Trying to change out my oxygen sensor today (2001 Buick Regal GS) and the G-D thing is stuck tight. I tried letting the car run for a while to heat things up (~heat wrench) but no luck. I went as far as putting a large 1/2" drive breaker bar on it and I am afraid I'm going to break something.
Any tips would be appreciated.
I haven't found a method of removing these things that doesn't include either busting them up and drilling out the remains or just replacing the pipe or cutting out the section with the bung and welding in a repair with a new bung.

I always install the new sensor with anti-seize on the threads. If ever there was a place for stainless steel bungs and sensor housings, this is it.

Bogie
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Old 08-11-2008, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbogie
I haven't found a method of removing these things that doesn't include either busting them up and drilling out the remains or just replacing the pipe or cutting out the section with the bung and welding in a repair with a new bung.

I always install the new sensor with anti-seize on the threads. If ever there was a place for stainless steel bungs and sensor housings, this is it.

Bogie
I must be lucky then (there's a first time for everything). I've swapped about a half dozen O2 sensors in the last few years and the only problem I've had is physically getting a wrench on the unit with enough room to swing it. Note that all the new O2 sensors I've bought already have anti-seize on the threads.
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Old 08-11-2008, 04:24 PM
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What will happen (rarely) is the threads from the bung will come out. They sell a repair kit for these. Haet and pb will usually do the trick. A little tapping on the wrench instead of a steady pull will go a long way also. Hold presure on the breeaker bar and tap it with a hammer in the proper direction. This almost always works.

Chet
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Old 08-11-2008, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-bucket23
What will happen (rarely) is the threads from the bung will come out. They sell a repair kit for these. Haet and pb will usually do the trick. A little tapping on the wrench instead of a steady pull will go a long way also. Hold presure on the breeaker bar and tap it with a hammer in the proper direction. This almost always works.

Chet

I second the tapping trick.

You may need to use a torch to heat thing up hot enough to get it out.

Most of the time if they are in that tight, it will pull threads out with it, like T-bucket said.

Good luck.

Steve
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Old 08-11-2008, 04:54 PM
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Well it came out, making ugly rusty thread noises most of the way. Had to twist it so hard the old sensor was wedged into the socket and the corners were rounded off.
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Old 08-11-2008, 05:22 PM
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An old timer once told me as long as it is making noise keep turning it. A rule I have lived by when loostening stuck or questionable bolts. Never broke a squeaker

Chet
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Old 08-11-2008, 06:12 PM
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"as long as it is making noise keep turning it."

LMAO, but it's true.
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