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Old 05-09-2008, 09:10 AM
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Stud Gun Set - Eastwoods?

I have searched and found where the Harbor Freight stud gun is described and I have read the recommendations for some of the other pro line models but has anyone had experience with either of the two models offered by Eastwoods?

They have a $199 set and a $369 set that includes the shrink time and additional studs. Are these units of the same quality as the HF?

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Old 05-09-2008, 11:24 AM
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HF stud welder

Hi,i dont know about eastwoods products,but i do have a hf STUD GUN,IT WORKS VERY WELL. but,you have to sand all the paint down first (bare metal) and a lot cheaper than eastwoods.
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Old 05-09-2008, 06:58 PM
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I have the HF gun as well and IMO is as good as the rest. The "problem" lies with the puller which SUCKS. It's a roll lock wheel on the stud stem and the ONLY way to release it is to jam it back INTO the stud you just pulled OUT.
Which effectivly screws up what you just pulled out.
So,
Buy a small pair of Vice Grips and spot weld them on the side of the puller shank where the "wheel" is and use THEM to pull with.
This way.You have controll of the grip of the stud and release is just a flip of the handle.
There are "better" studs available but really,those work fine. Just take another pair of grips and twis the stud off and then grind down what's left.
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Old 05-09-2008, 07:47 PM
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That's funny, that is exactly what I LIKE about that tool! I have one of those pullers and everyone borrows it at work.

Brian
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Old 05-09-2008, 07:55 PM
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I have that same puller also and i Love it, i dont have to jam mine to get it to come of i basically just relieve the tension and mine will slide right off with barely moving it forward, however the wheel wears out fast
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Old 05-09-2008, 10:51 PM
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One of the tricks is to not "burn" the stud in. You "tap" the trigger just like you tap the keys on the computer keyboard. Just barely attaching the stud to the metal. If it needs more than that, it probably needs more "tool" to get the dent out anyway. Many, many lightly attached studs will pull just about anything out though.

Brian
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Old 05-10-2008, 12:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee4Me
I have the HF gun as well and IMO is as good as the rest. The "problem" lies with the puller which SUCKS. It's a roll lock wheel on the stud stem and the ONLY way to release it is to jam it back INTO the stud you just pulled OUT.
Which effectivly screws up what you just pulled out.
left.
a guy at my work had this same prob, the question i must ask you is are you putting it all the way down on to the base of the nail. he was and he was pushing all his stuff back in also. if you lock it with about a 1/4-1/8th inch of nail and a slight tap will release without knocking it.
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Old 05-10-2008, 05:02 AM
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I have one of the HF stud guns and had the same problem with the puller. The wheel on mine just will not hold the pins. I have one of the "T-handle" type that works just great, but the slide hammer won't. I figure it is just poor manufacturing. I have used mine at work for about 4 or 5 years, so I also purchased a slide hammer with a twist on type of end from one of the tool jobbers.

Aaron
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Old 05-10-2008, 09:08 AM
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Humm. I guess you guys are not really "pulling" very hard cause if you use much force pulling out,the wheel WILL lock DOWN as thats what it's JOB is to roll on a cam type action and grab a hold. No I don't run it down all the way,I understand THAT being a problem as you have to go forward to release the wheel so if your bottomed out,where you going to go?LOL....Hard pulling really locks down the cam action on the stud and it's a b**** to get to release.Then the roll pin breaks and you slam yourself in the face with the slide weight and the little wheel goes rolling to who knows where.
I also had issues with it not holding and another reason for the grips.
I'm done with this bro's. Do as and with what you see fit.
I've used it and know the results of the HF set up and seen some of these so called "professional" kit's which are basically the same thing at twice the cost.
Are there other set's? Yes, and if I made MY living with them everyday,I'd own the BEST available. However I don't,so I just modify as necessary on some of the cheap stuff to do what I need.
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Old 05-10-2008, 09:38 AM
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I have an H&S Stinger set and would I spend the bucks again..Yup you bet..the puller works great and I like the stud welder..I also like putting on multiple pins and hooking them to the porta power for hard pulls..

Guess I go for heavy industrial kinds of stuff..

Sam
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Old 05-10-2008, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bee4Me
Humm. I guess you guys are not really "pulling" very hard cause if you use much force pulling out,the wheel WILL lock DOWN as thats what it's JOB is to roll on a cam type action and grab a hold. No I don't run it down all the way,I understand THAT being a problem as you have to go forward to release the wheel so if your bottomed out,where you going to go?LOL....Hard pulling really locks down the cam action on the stud and it's a b**** to get to release.Then the roll pin breaks and you slam yourself in the face with the slide weight and the little wheel goes rolling to who knows where.
I also had issues with it not holding and another reason for the grips.
I'm done with this bro's. Do as and with what you see fit.
I've used it and know the results of the HF set up and seen some of these so called "professional" kit's which are basically the same thing at twice the cost.
Are there other set's? Yes, and if I made MY living with them everyday,I'd own the BEST available. However I don't,so I just modify as necessary on some of the cheap stuff to do what I need.
Ahhhh, wait a second here, you described the H&S puller I got with my kit, but your is a HF copy! That is probably the problem, the HF copy doesn't work like the H&S I can put a bet on that. The welder may do the "same" job, but the puller may not.

I have to tell you, if you are "burning" the studs in, you are holding the trigger for too long. Don't get me wrong, sometimes you have to. But 99% of the time, that is overkill big time.

I had my stud welder for a few years and I went to this new shop to work. The owner of the shop was a nut case, absolute certified Einstein looking nut case. But he REALLY knew tools. He had invented a bunch and told me how he had actually made a "stud puller" long before it was on the market. Anyway, this guy taught me a lot about how to use tools properly. That stud welder, along with the "Pogo stick" were two tools I had been using totally wrong for years before meeting him. And I am thankful for what I learned from him. I am not kidding, that five months was a five month long "class" more than a job.

I worked there for five months and watched a few guys come in for a day or two and leave because they couldn't work for him. He would walk up and tell you what tools to use on a job, drove me nuts. But he DID have a lot of very good advice, one piece was his advice on the stud welder.

He would chew you out if you saw you "burning" the stud in. He taught me to lightly tap the trigger, so the stud BARELY is hanging on. I am talking, you have to pull the tool off the stud perfectly straight or the stud will simply fall to the floor. When sliding the puller on, you have to do so perfectly straight without pushing the stud to one side or the other or it will fall right off.

You hardly even discolor the metal or burn the paint on the back if used this way. So, you tap the trigger and then carefully slide the welder off the stud. Then carefully slide the slide hammer on and roll the wheel to hold it. Give the slide hammer a whack or two, you would be surprised how hard you can whack on that stud and how much metal it will move with that tiny attachment point! After pulling, you just lean the slide hammer over and the pin falls off. Now, if the pin is stuck a little in the tool, you tap it straight down end on the pin on the floor, the wheel turns back and the pin falls on the floor.

The trick is, use lots more studs, move metal a little at a time if you have to.

I am not kidding, you metal finish small dinigs out using this method. Give it a try, it may work for you too.

Brian
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Old 05-10-2008, 03:35 PM
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Yeah Brian, It's a "touch" thing with the studs as if you don't heat it enough to stick,then it just comes loose but if you hammer the trigger,it's "stuck" and and hell to get off.
I use multiple studs pulling and sometimes you don't get a good ground with the gun and the stud literally falls off or comes loose with the slightest pull.So, It's a game to get the stud stuck for sure but not really "welded" on which presents a whole nother problem getting it off.
Thanks for the info.
Mike.
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Old 05-12-2008, 05:45 PM
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re: Stud Gun Set - Eastwoods?

Until I got a stud gun I made a adapter to screw vice grips to a slide hammer very similar to the picture(the one pictured came in a slide hammer set that we recently bought for the shop) I used it to pull by tack welding1/4" washers to the metal,worked great as long as you held every thing straight, I finally came up with a hook made from a link from a grade 8 chain welded to the adapter ,all of this worked fine as long as you didn't go nuts with the welds. I still like the vise grips because they can grip at odd angles and other things that you can't do with a stud gun,but the gun is the winner hands down when it comes to panels no matter how you pull it.

Later
Kenney
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Old 05-12-2008, 05:50 PM
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re: Stud Gun Set - Eastwoods?

Well I don't know where the picture went but I'll get it sorted out and post it.
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Old 05-12-2008, 08:40 PM
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I have an H&S stinger with the roller type puller and after about five years it started jamming up. i have to give it a little push in to get it to release. You could take the money you save on the HF gun and by the t-type twist puller.
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