[ljose49]

Hey Cobalt 327 and American Muscle, thanks for the info. I uploaded an image of what the original distributor had. Itd be the grommet with 4 holes going into the CM. But I threw in the dizzy from the original '75 350 we currently have in the truck. HEI, but with out the electronic carb set up. Its an '84 A.M, long bed. Nothing HP, just had the rebuild shop throw in flat top pistons and a better than stock cam. Still cant wait to drive this thing to the beach and do some fishing! going on a fishing withdrawal.

[handy7rick]

Originally Posted by ljose49

Im about to head out and check that Richie, thnx. Does it have to be exactly 12? I removed the first plug with wire, and im getting spark, and fuel. Even changed the cap/coil assembly. Both caps were firing good less than a week ago. But still, nada. Maybe my timing is way off? TDC? I tried following the steps vizard says. Had a wire down the 1 cylinder to feel the piston going up and down, was checking the intake rocker for motion, front balancer mark was close to zero on timing tab. Then rotate the oil pump shaft so its approximate to 5's rockers/pushrods, mark and get the distributor and cap aligned, install and rotor should point towards 1. But we could never get the damn dist to sit with the pump shaft in this position, so I rotated it off pointing to 5's rockers and sure enough it finally sat down properly and pointed towards cylinder 1. But the engine just spins.

Forget pointers for a minute.Take out number 1 spark plug and with half inch drive ratchet turn engine at 5/8" balancer bolt slowly till you HEAR COMPRESSION STARTING TO BUILD.NOW YOU SHOULD BE NEAR tOP DEAD CENTER ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE.cHECK BALANCER TO SEE IF ITS COMONG TO zero on balancer.If so or just close ,slightly turn engine to ZERO and set distributor in.If it is not pointing a number 1,Remove distributor and turn oil pump rod at bottom of distributor with long flat head screw driver until distributor sits in pointing at number 1,then turn distributor about one quarter round COUNTER CLOCKWISE .The motor Will start in this position ,Then you'll need to check timing with light .Timing will probably be slightly high at this point .If not set to 8 or 10 degrees advance on harmonic balancer.Then check at 2000 RPM and set to 34 degrees total advance. I have found this to work when all else fails. Good Luck, Handy7rick@yahoo.com

[ljose49]

Thanks Handyrick, Finally got the truck going. My timing was way off. Had to give the distributor a 180, and she it finally fired up. Wouldnt stay on much tho, but Had the fuel filter changed and it runs great now! I do however have another inquiri. I had heard somewhere to get better mileage itd be best to run with a lighter weight of oil. Id like to switch to synthetic, but whats a safe weight to use? I got 5w 20. Weve always used 10 30, but like I said Id like to try something leaner, see what happens.

[handy7rick]

Originally Posted by ljose49

Thanks Handyrick, Finally got the truck going. My timing was way off. Had to give the distributor a 180, and she it finally fired up. Wouldnt stay on much tho, but Had the fuel filter changed and it runs great now! I do however have another inquiri. I had heard somewhere to get better mileage itd be best to run with a lighter weight of oil. Id like to switch to synthetic, but whats a safe weight to use? I got 5w 20. Weve always used 10 30, but like I said Id like to try something leaner, see what happens.

Handy7rick here again.Reguarding oil weight,I have found that Synthetic oils will not stay in all engines,Sometimes even new rebuilt ones.Therefore, I always try the heavier weight of Synthetic, especially in V 8s,(10w30) being the thinnest .It still circulates better than conventional oil especially in Winter or Cold weather as Synthetic doesnt thicken at extreme Cold below Freezing.You still get less friction with Synthetic at most any weight.Some or many Hot Rods need 10w40 Synthetic to stay in at high RPMS.That weight is hard to find in Full Synthetic. 5w20,5w30 and 10w30 are most common Weights found in Full Synthetic,It even comes in 0 weight.I use Walmart or Advance or O'rielly brand Synthetic oil with much success.Walmart Super Tec Full Synthetic is most reasonable Priced (about $20.50 for 5 Quart Bottle) except when O'reilly auto parts has their Store Brand Full Synthetic on Sale at $ 3.49 per quart.I hope this helps you decide.Happy Hotrodding,handy7rick. By the way the number 7 as in the bible is the number for completion as God created the World in 6 days and on the 7th day He Rested.

[ljose49]

Thanks for the info Rick! This engine is pretty stock however, and in South Texas we hardly ever get cold temps. Ill keep your advice in mind tho, happy Sabbath!

[handy7rick]

Hope things work out for you out there in Texas.I would definately run the thicker synthetic in those warmer temps.I'm in Greer ,SC and I have a 383 I built lightly and put in a 1984 El Camino with a 700r4 tranny.Changing differentiel soon.It now has a 241 differential and turns only 2000 RPM at 80 miles per hour with my converter lock out switch engaged and will still spin the tires even built low compression (about 9.5 to 1) with a single Quadrajet I built(No Bogging either).Cam is Small .470 lift intake and 218 degrees at .050 on the intake valve and .470 lift Exaust and 228 degrees at .050 on the exhaust valve.Its the OLD TQ 40 Erson Cam.Happy Hot Rodding,Handy7rick

[75gmck25]

If you get Mobil 1 15w50 it will also have the zinc you need for a flat tappet cam. The 15w50 is listed for classic performance cars, and I believe it has the highest amount of zinc (1200 ppm) of the Mobil products.

They had Mobil products on sale at Advance Auto Parts last month, and the sale may be still going on (it was something like 5 qts of synthetic oil and a Mobil filter for $32).

Bruce

[handy7rick]

Originally Posted by ljose49

Hello all, I just received my block from the machine shop, fully rebuilt. It did however needed to have a few items installed personally. The oilpan, oilpump, intake , exhaust etc. However in a small box included all the hardware that went with the pieces needed to be placed back on. Im stumped on this tube however???? Was it accidently thrown in
? Its not the dipstick tube, and Im too embarassed to call and even ask, so any help would be awesome.

Handy7rick Here,The part pictured Definately Looks Like The Dip Stick Tube that installs in the Block.Good Luck,Rick

[handy7rick]

Originally Posted by 75gmck25

If you get Mobil 1 15w50 it will also have the zinc you need for a flat tappet cam. The 15w50 is listed for classic performance cars, and I believe it has the highest amount of zinc (1200 ppm) of the Mobil products.

They had Mobil products on sale at Advance Auto Parts last month, and the sale may be still going on (it was something like 5 qts of synthetic oil and a Mobil filter for $32).

Bruce

The Zinc in the Moble oil is definately a plus and nessary for the life of a flat tappet cam and even older hydralic cams, thanks for reminding me and others of that Fact . Handy7rick

[WARREN BARBER]

As far as I know all Chevy dip stick tubes are one peice units the picture shows the bottom part of a broken dip stick tube. Buy a new dip stick tube it can be installed while the engine is in the car and you dont have to pull the pan. might have to pull the exhaust on that side though.

[handy7rick]

Most likely you arent getting any fire.You can run a hot wire with an inline fuse to the hot wire on the distributor.Try not to do too much cranking on that new rebuild.It needs to fire right up and run 1500 to 2000 rpm for twenty minutes for proper break in checking for leaks and oil pressure and temp readings.

[superdc62]

this my sound weird but had 351 and was getting spark but it wouldnt start the problem was the gear pin on the distributor was sheared it caught enought to give a spark but wasnt turning might look at that