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-   -   Sub Frame swap in (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/sub-frame-swap-11650.html)

ET-ski 11-14-2001 11:16 AM

Sub Frame swap in
 
Hi All, I have just aquired a '59 Chev PU and am planning on making it a street rod. The first thing I plan is to install a front sub frame from a Nova/Camero. I am also in the process of getting a 76 Nova for a very small amount of money and will use it for the donner of all the parts possible. I have seen notes that some people have put out that saying that up to '72 is the only way to go, but since this one is to be had for so cheap, I plan to use it. What my question is, does anyone have instructions or step by step procedure on how to do this? I had seen a article in a magizine some time ago and should have copied it at that time, as now I can't find it. I have talked to some people and they say it's pretty simple and others have said there are hidden tricks. So I thought before I get started I would like to see if there is a step by step procedure. Thanks in advance to anyone that can help or provide me some instruction.

rico_bob 01-29-2002 04:40 PM

Hello,

Seems like You are one of hundreds asking this question now days! For me, I have given this a lot of thought. As a matter of fact, 20 years worth!

I have just now gotten to a point in life that I can start working on my '57 Chevy pickup after nearly 20 years of moving around from state to state, and place to place. Of course a divorce didn't help either!

Anyway, I once was sold on doing an IFS using a Volarie/Aspen/Diplomat torsion bar clip. Even moved that heavy sucker half way around Michigan.

After seeing all the Novas and Aspens that cut your truck in half, I have decided a Mustang II (clone)crossmember or full hub-to-hub front suspension is the "ideal" set-up. I am looking at Progressive Auto's Corvette IFS's.

They even offer 12-3/4" rotors for all the stopping power you will ever need. Whoever I go with, I will be selecting Chevy rotors and calipers, as most IFS sellers give you the choice and the set-up is so neat and clean, that after 20 years, I know which way I am going to go.

These M-II clones also save you from having to fabricate a raditor mount, front bumper mounts, fender mounts, in some cases - motor mounts, and it keeps you from taking big ugly chunks of steel out of your inner fenders!

Read, study and think first! You shouldn't rush into this ... But then don't wait as long as I did !! Ha! Ha!

In case you are curious, here is the site for Progressive Automotive: <a href="http://www.progressiveautomotive.com/" target="_blank">www.progressiveautomotive.com/</a>
:D

[ January 29, 2002: Message edited by: rico_bob ]</p>

Phat 01-30-2002 05:33 AM

The clip is not that easy if your a first timer .You can really mess up a chassis. Wheels not centered in the wheel wells.Radiator,fender mounts. I just did a 57 chevy pick up with the TCI its pix are at www.streetrod.50megs.com. I think page 3.It wont be on that site for long.The frontend took about half a day to tack in and make it a ROLLER.The motor was still warm to the touch when it came off the jack standshttp://streetrod.50megs.com/images/57tonytci_cross.jpg

[ January 30, 2002: Message edited by: Phat ]</p>

F-1 Rodder 01-30-2002 12:07 PM

The frame clip requires a lot of patience and measurement before you pull out the torch, but if you leave the beer behind and go about it very carefully, you can do it. There have been many magazine articles on the process. Additionally, there are some weld in kits available. One that comes to mind is sold by RB's Obsolete from their catalog. Many of the weld in's use Must II components which provide a lot of flexability.


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