Successful painting in cold weather.... - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Body - Exterior
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-02-2009, 06:56 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Green Bay, WI
Age: 44
Posts: 2,073
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
I never questioned the quality of spi epoxy. Finally got the chance to use it for the first time on the last two relatives vehicles I did. Just was not aware why it said it was an etching primer. I didn't know they still had zinc in epoxys, PPG's use to have zinc back when it was good.
The only problem I had with it was kept getting fisheyes when I reduced to shoot the sealer coat, and could only figure it was something with the epoxy, as didn't have a fisheye problem with anything else and I metacioulously cleaned before and after. Found out from other users it was the white epoxy, and the white can be a bit finicky with application and I should try shooting with a bit higher pressure. That did the trick, but ended up having a long day in the garage because of it. Other epoxys I've used just shot on at pretty low pressure and haven't really experienced that. I like that it has more build then your typical epoxy, dries glossier then the typical epoxy primer, which helps checking out your bodywork, and if kept in warm temps can be sanded dry the next day without balling up the paper-also not typical of other epoxys.

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-02-2009, 07:49 PM
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Mopar tapered axle rear brake conversion
Last journal entry: What I'm doing now...
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 4,267
Wiki Edits: 49

Thanks: 0
Thanked 5 Times in 5 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenseth17
Guess I am wrong, does look like etch. Must admit not familar with nor have used any Martin senour products. Sorry.
And weird, the PDS says can be directly topcoat, not often you see that. I am guessing the 15212 is really an acid/reducer, not an activator?
I'm no expert but as far as I know you can't spray the stuff without using one or the other of the second parts.

Here's a pic of this stuff after I sprayed my firewall with it. Hate the color but it does seem to fill very minor scratches and sands very well.



By the way..... here's the gas tank installed.

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #18 (permalink)  
Old 12-02-2009, 07:56 PM
MARTINSR's Avatar
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San francisco bay area
Age: 55
Posts: 13,373
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1,496
Thanked 1,276 Times in 1,117 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kenseth17
Looks good centerline, but I think you are confusing epoxy and etching primer again. Etching primer isn't 2 part, okay it has 2 parts, a vinyl? resin/ zinc, and acid, but its not really a 2k product, and you really don't want to paint over it without using another primer first-most tech sheets I've seen give strict warnings against painting directly over them. Maybe you could paint over them or some manufactures say its okay after allowing plenty of time for the acid to leave, but most say its a no no. Etch primer usually has very little build and if you apply them heavy at all will be running all over the place.

Epoxy on the other hand is 2k . It doesn't contain an acid to etch the surface, its more like a glue, so surface should be sanded for adhesion, but much better then an etch primer and less chance of leading to any problems with other products or down the road.
There is no argument here the epoxy is much better. But that particular etch is a pretty good one. I sold HUNDREDS upon HUNDREDS of gallons of it that was painted over. It is in the tech sheets, at least on the "REAL" tech sheet. That particular product is a "value line" but a repackaged top of the line! Marketing, you have to love it!
A few manufacturers bought it by the pallet as a primer for metal and aluminum that was painted over. Another was a truck painter who painted logging and dump trailers that were sandblasted and again, top coated right over it. Sort of a "bestest" way to go instead of the "Best" over epoxy.

Centerline, some cheap medwave infrared lights are hard to beat. I have two of these, I wouldn't go back to a "burger warmer" lightbulb for nothing.

I don't have this exact brand, mine has a tripod base. But honestly, they are super and not a whole lot of money.

Brian

Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #19 (permalink)  
Old 12-02-2009, 08:38 PM
Chris Ryan
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: sc
Age: 47
Posts: 38
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 302 Z28
Because I tried a test. I had the metal four piece hood of my 34 primed with PPG DPLF epoxy primer. It had been primed for over three months sitting in my garage so you can't say it wasn't cured. After reading a thread in this forum about PPG DPLF wiping right off after cure with a lacquer thinner wet rag I tried it. Sure enough it came right off, I cleaned off all four pieces of my hood with a lacquer thinner soaked rag. I then primed it with SPI epoxy primer and let it cure for a week. Tried the same test as with the PPG epoxy. The SPI primer was unfazed, not even a mark. I challenge anyone who dis-believes this to try it and see. If you have never used SPI epoxy IMHO you have no right to challenge it. Use it and you will be convinced it is the best epoxy primer on the market.

Vince
Relax Man, nobody said that it wasn't any good. I have used Dupont's 2540 after I ditched the PPG DP epoxy's. I really like the Dupont. I recently tried SPI's universal clear for the first time, and was impressed. You just stated that it was the better than PPG and Dupont regardless of cost. I just wanted clarification on why you think that. If you are going to make statements like that, it would be more believable if you had something to back it up, otherwise it just sounds like a commercial for SPI. Again, I am in no way bashing SPI. The only product that I used was their universal clear, I found it to be top notch in spray-ability, clarity, depth, cuts and buffs nice. The only undetermined thing is durability.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #20 (permalink)  
Old 12-02-2009, 09:29 PM
302 Z28's Avatar  
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2003
Location: North Texas
Posts: 10,840
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 86 Times in 73 Posts
Sorry if it seemed I came on a little strong, it's just that there ere literally dozens of people that frequent this forum that have used the stuff and like me just rave about it. I know the PPG epoxy of today is nothing like the PPG epoxy of say ten years ago, haven't used DuPont so I can't really say. I'm willing to bet however that DuPont epoxy has been watered down also, I do know that DuPont Imron has. If you get the chance to use SPI's epoxy you will see how much better it is than the high priced spreads.

Vince
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #21 (permalink)  
Old 12-03-2009, 04:56 AM
deadbodyman's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last wiki edit: Stripping paint Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: augusta,ga.
Age: 54
Posts: 6,348
Wiki Edits: 11

Thanks: 28
Thanked 513 Times in 434 Posts
Nice work center line.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Body - Exterior posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
engines, cold weather, strait up pipes... jackflash Engine 0 12-03-2003 11:30 PM
Advice? Truck running very bad in cold weather. firewood Engine 8 11-10-2003 06:30 PM
Cold weather painting 78 monte Hotrodders' Lounge 5 12-18-2002 12:23 AM
Cold weather blues tufguy454 Engine 5 10-28-2002 08:06 AM
Cold weather painting TurboS10 Body - Exterior 7 10-26-2002 06:28 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:47 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.