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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-02-2009, 05:56 PM
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I never questioned the quality of spi epoxy. Finally got the chance to use it for the first time on the last two relatives vehicles I did. Just was not aware why it said it was an etching primer. I didn't know they still had zinc in epoxys, PPG's use to have zinc back when it was good.
The only problem I had with it was kept getting fisheyes when I reduced to shoot the sealer coat, and could only figure it was something with the epoxy, as didn't have a fisheye problem with anything else and I metacioulously cleaned before and after. Found out from other users it was the white epoxy, and the white can be a bit finicky with application and I should try shooting with a bit higher pressure. That did the trick, but ended up having a long day in the garage because of it. Other epoxys I've used just shot on at pretty low pressure and haven't really experienced that. I like that it has more build then your typical epoxy, dries glossier then the typical epoxy primer, which helps checking out your bodywork, and if kept in warm temps can be sanded dry the next day without balling up the paper-also not typical of other epoxys.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-02-2009, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by kenseth17
Guess I am wrong, does look like etch. Must admit not familar with nor have used any Martin senour products. Sorry.
And weird, the PDS says can be directly topcoat, not often you see that. I am guessing the 15212 is really an acid/reducer, not an activator?
I'm no expert but as far as I know you can't spray the stuff without using one or the other of the second parts.

Here's a pic of this stuff after I sprayed my firewall with it. Hate the color but it does seem to fill very minor scratches and sands very well.

By the way..... here's the gas tank installed.

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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 12-02-2009, 06:56 PM
Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
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Originally Posted by kenseth17
Looks good centerline, but I think you are confusing epoxy and etching primer again. Etching primer isn't 2 part, okay it has 2 parts, a vinyl? resin/ zinc, and acid, but its not really a 2k product, and you really don't want to paint over it without using another primer first-most tech sheets I've seen give strict warnings against painting directly over them. Maybe you could paint over them or some manufactures say its okay after allowing plenty of time for the acid to leave, but most say its a no no. Etch primer usually has very little build and if you apply them heavy at all will be running all over the place.

Epoxy on the other hand is 2k . It doesn't contain an acid to etch the surface, its more like a glue, so surface should be sanded for adhesion, but much better then an etch primer and less chance of leading to any problems with other products or down the road.
There is no argument here the epoxy is much better. But that particular etch is a pretty good one. I sold HUNDREDS upon HUNDREDS of gallons of it that was painted over. It is in the tech sheets, at least on the "REAL" tech sheet. That particular product is a "value line" but a repackaged top of the line! Marketing, you have to love it!
A few manufacturers bought it by the pallet as a primer for metal and aluminum that was painted over. Another was a truck painter who painted logging and dump trailers that were sandblasted and again, top coated right over it. Sort of a "bestest" way to go instead of the "Best" over epoxy.

Centerline, some cheap medwave infrared lights are hard to beat. I have two of these, I wouldn't go back to a "burger warmer" lightbulb for nothing.

I don't have this exact brand, mine has a tripod base. But honestly, they are super and not a whole lot of money.


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Old 12-02-2009, 07:38 PM
Chris Ryan
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Originally Posted by 302 Z28
Because I tried a test. I had the metal four piece hood of my 34 primed with PPG DPLF epoxy primer. It had been primed for over three months sitting in my garage so you can't say it wasn't cured. After reading a thread in this forum about PPG DPLF wiping right off after cure with a lacquer thinner wet rag I tried it. Sure enough it came right off, I cleaned off all four pieces of my hood with a lacquer thinner soaked rag. I then primed it with SPI epoxy primer and let it cure for a week. Tried the same test as with the PPG epoxy. The SPI primer was unfazed, not even a mark. I challenge anyone who dis-believes this to try it and see. If you have never used SPI epoxy IMHO you have no right to challenge it. Use it and you will be convinced it is the best epoxy primer on the market.

Relax Man, nobody said that it wasn't any good. I have used Dupont's 2540 after I ditched the PPG DP epoxy's. I really like the Dupont. I recently tried SPI's universal clear for the first time, and was impressed. You just stated that it was the better than PPG and Dupont regardless of cost. I just wanted clarification on why you think that. If you are going to make statements like that, it would be more believable if you had something to back it up, otherwise it just sounds like a commercial for SPI. Again, I am in no way bashing SPI. The only product that I used was their universal clear, I found it to be top notch in spray-ability, clarity, depth, cuts and buffs nice. The only undetermined thing is durability.
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Old 12-02-2009, 08:29 PM
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Sorry if it seemed I came on a little strong, it's just that there ere literally dozens of people that frequent this forum that have used the stuff and like me just rave about it. I know the PPG epoxy of today is nothing like the PPG epoxy of say ten years ago, haven't used DuPont so I can't really say. I'm willing to bet however that DuPont epoxy has been watered down also, I do know that DuPont Imron has. If you get the chance to use SPI's epoxy you will see how much better it is than the high priced spreads.

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Old 12-03-2009, 03:56 AM
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Nice work center line.
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