sucessful cam break in- what oil to use ? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-30-2005, 04:54 PM
fast68's Avatar
likes chevy trucks & boobies
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: IL
Posts: 1,970
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
sucessful cam break in- what oil to use ?

those of you who have sucessfully brokin in cams- what oil did you use

from searching i have read that straight 30 weight is the stuff to use- and EOS for sure

what brand/type of oil is known to be safe for this ?

need to break in cam on old higher miles 350 with summit cam, soon
the original cam died three galled lifters, maybe 4, worn into feet of them, #6 exhaust seems to have been the worst(occasional popping out exhaust)
the engine ran good and strong, i have no idea why it ate the cam, engine still was running original nylon tooth cam sprocket and timing set(1974 CMJ stamping 350)
i have no way to disassemble and clean engine, or even pull pan, all i can do is oil and filter and hope



thanks for anything

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 10-30-2005, 05:07 PM
ragenrat638's Avatar
CRASH TEST DUMMY !!!!!!
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: aurora il
Age: 53
Posts: 83
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
really any quality brand oil should do....the key is
#1 use the cam lifter break-in lube supplyed with lifters and cam....or buy some ...
#2 run engine at 2000 rpm for 20 min....upon first start up....
i like having a buddy there....to help look for leaks....fill the radiator...
i like caster oil....my self.....
hope this helps....your pal mark
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 10-30-2005, 05:09 PM
xntrik's Avatar
Save a horse, Ride a Cowboy.
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 5,131
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Do what the cam manufacturer recommends. If they say use soft springs... do it.. it is easier than changing the cam and lifters a second time.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 10-30-2005, 05:12 PM
powerrodsmike's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Make a fiberglass fan shroud
Last journal entry: Next.. ..Bagging the king B (barge)
Last photo:
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: gilroy, california
Age: 53
Posts: 4,108
Wiki Edits: 161

Thanks: 0
Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts
Is this a new cam that you just put in? Did you put molylube on the cam and bearings when you assembled it? 30 wt should be fine to break it in with if you pre lubed it when you assembled it. Fire up the motor, don't let it run below 1500 rpm for the first 20 minutes or so. Vary the rpm's from 1500 to 2500 during that time. That will get a good start on breaking that cam in right. Change your oil and filter after 50 miles.
__________________
my signature lines...not really directed at anyone in particular..

BE different....ACT normal.

No one is completely useless..They can always be used as a bad example
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 11-21-2005, 10:19 AM
steve392's Avatar
just passin' thru
 
Last wiki edit: How to title a hot rod
Last journal entry: Willys - Body and Paint
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: NJ
Posts: 272
Wiki Edits: 2

Thanks: 0
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
I installed a Comp Cams Extreme energy cam in my Hemi and used their package of lube that came with the cam. I haven't started the motor for the first time yet, but I have noticed that quite a lot of the cam lube didn't seem to "stick" to the lobes, and they appear to be almost dry. I'm sure that there is a thin film of lube left, but I'm going to re-lube everything once more before start-up, probably with Red Line assembly lube. I am not too impressed with the stuff that was supplied by Comp Cams.
In all fairness, its been a while since I installed the cam, and I suppose the lube would have worked fine if I started up the motor as soon as I installed the cam. But long term, the lube couldn't hang on.
I'll also dip the lifters in Engine Oil Supplement (now called engine assembly lube by GM) as a precaution, and I 'll do that just prior to start-up.

Steve
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 11-21-2005, 10:55 AM
johnsongrass1's Avatar
Race it, Don't rice it!
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Columbia, Mo
Age: 38
Posts: 4,080
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts
MOly paste won't fall off overtime. I've got a cam with moly paste on it in a 358 short block been sitting for over 500 days without falling off or dripping. Red line assembly works really well.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 11-21-2005, 11:11 AM
techinspector1's Avatar
Senior Curmudgeon
 
Last wiki edit: DynoSim combinations Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hemet, California, USA
Age: 72
Posts: 12,946
Wiki Edits: 326

Thanks: 760
Thanked 1,012 Times in 848 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by steve392
I installed a Comp Cams Extreme energy cam in my Hemi and used their package of lube that came with the cam. I haven't started the motor for the first time yet, but I have noticed that quite a lot of the cam lube didn't seem to "stick" to the lobes, and they appear to be almost dry. I'm sure that there is a thin film of lube left, but I'm going to re-lube everything once more before start-up, probably with Red Line assembly lube. I am not too impressed with the stuff that was supplied by Comp Cams.
In all fairness, its been a while since I installed the cam, and I suppose the lube would have worked fine if I started up the motor as soon as I installed the cam. But long term, the lube couldn't hang on.
I'll also dip the lifters in Engine Oil Supplement (now called engine assembly lube by GM) as a precaution, and I 'll do that just prior to start-up.

Steve
I've experienced the same thing in the past. I've corrected it since by scrubbing the cam with solvent and a hard-bristle nylon brush to remove any anti-rust lube that may have been applied by the cam grinder and then washing it to within an inch of its life with Ivory Liquid and hot water. I blow it dry and work the moly into the pores of the metal with my fingers, using all the moly supplied. I use GM EOS in the oil (30 wt. detergent), prime the oil galleys, prime the carb and set the timing close so that I don't have to grind the motor on start-up. Closely monitoring a known-good oil pressure and water temp gauge, I bring the revs to minimum 2,500 for minimum 20 minutes. Shut down, drop oil and filter, new filter and fresh oil and another can of EOS for 50 miles. Drop oil and filter, re-load with new filter and 10-W-30. Forgot to mention, single OEM springs on startup, changing them to matching springs after 50 miles. Good to go.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 11-21-2005, 11:16 AM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 307
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ragenrat638
really any quality brand oil should do....the key is
#1 use the cam lifter break-in lube supplyed with lifters and cam....or buy some ...
#2 run engine at 2000 rpm for 20 min....upon first start up....
i like having a buddy there....to help look for leaks....fill the radiator...
i like caster oil....my self.....
hope this helps....your pal mark
That's how I do it and I've never had a problem. Make sure everything is ready before you start it and don't shut it off for at least 15 min.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 11-21-2005, 10:28 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: PA
Age: 71
Posts: 367
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
I used Valvoline 10W-30 racing oil as it is high in zinc. Added an extra qt. of oil to help the splash lube. Also used a bottle of GM EOS.

Got the racing oil at NAPA. Special order and more expensive than conventional oil.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Synthetic oil?? Mightymouse Engine 40 02-23-2012 04:05 PM
Engine break in oil 63Fair Hotrodding Basics 11 12-03-2011 09:51 PM
Oil Temperature and oil types (long) TurboS10 Engine 36 03-01-2005 01:51 PM
cam break in jo5hi3 Engine 2 03-19-2004 06:34 PM
hydrolic lifter cam vs. solid lifter cam chevyelc81 Engine 12 09-09-2003 07:38 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:36 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.