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Old 01-28-2011, 08:04 AM
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Suggestion of cam

Hi all,

I was needing a cam selection with my setup. I have a rebuilt sbc 400 (stock) with dish pistons, vortec heads (906) up to .550 lift, 65000 volts hei distributor, edlebrock 650 electric carb, edlebrock RPM vortec intake, 40 series flowmaster mufflers, flowtech headers, and a rebuilt 350 with shift kit. This will be a daily driver put I would like some power. This will be going in a 81 cutlass and it will not see a day on the track, strictly street and highway.

Would this cam below be good for my setup and what type of #s would I see with it?

Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft
Lift: .488"/.488"
Adv. Duration: 292/292
RPM Range: 3000-6200

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Old 01-28-2011, 09:05 AM
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Pretty radical cam with no low end power. Not what I'd use for a car that's street driven as a daily and not used at the track. I'd stay below 270 degrees, and not more than around 460 lift.
You want something that developes power right off idle at around 1500-1700 rpm's, with a topend power range of no more than 6,000.
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Old 01-28-2011, 10:09 AM
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personally for a daily driver i would use a hyd roller cam as they will last longer cause you have less chance of wipping out a lobe. with a flat tappet cams now a days you have to use specilty oil additives because there are no cars today being produced with flat tappet cams so oil manufactures have lowerd the amount of zddp in there oil. the zddp is what flat tappet cams need in order to stay alive and you really have to break in the cam correct cause most of the time that is where the most wear is caused on a flat tappet cam. you will spend more money on a flat tappet cam but you will also get more power out of one since they are able to have far better ramp rates. they are well worth the extra 300.00 or so bucks for all the added valve train costs.

with this being a daily driver i think you would do fine with a hyd roller cam that has around 218-226 @.050 and 274-280 advertised. (a bit less for flat tappet) such as this one

http://www.competitionproducts.com/H...ctinfo/110245/

but you will spend more money on this, but you also get what you paid for

here is a hyd f/t cam that would be decent, but i would recomend a 2200-2400 stall and atleast 3.73 gears for it. i'm not much on CompCams but i also dont like hyd flat tappet cams either (only flat tappet i will deal with is a mech flat tappet with really good direct lube lifters)

http://www.competitionproducts.com/C...o/CCA12-238-2/

(this cam does have a very aggressive ramp rate for a hyd f/t)

you have to remember that you are building a 400 not a 350, all cam recomendation are for 350 cubic inch engines. the cubic inches you have the more the power band will go down

ex. a cam with a advertised power band of 2500-6000 in a 350 will be apox. 2500-6000. but in a 383 it will be apox. 2150-5650. in a 400 it will be apox. 2000-5500. in a stoked 400 like a 421 it would be apox. 1750-5250.

so for you i would say you want to look for a cam that had an advertised power band of 24-2600 thru 58-6000 so that you will acutally end up with around 19-2000 thru 53-5500 and still use a 2500 stall and 3.73's
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Old 01-28-2011, 12:43 PM
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so for you i would say you want to look for a cam that had an advertised power band of 24-2600 thru 58-6000 so that you will acutally end up with around 19-2000 thru 53-5500 and still use a 2500 stall and 3.73's

So with that being said would this cam be more of what Im lookn for?

Lift: .465"/.488"
Adv. Duration: 282/292
RPM Range: 2200-5700
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Old 01-28-2011, 01:17 PM
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While I`ve gotten to where I usually don`t recommend cams anymore since I am rather conservative in my picks and some don`t see that not everyone is looking for the fastest cam on the shelf, if it were I, I would use the cam I`ll post a link to, it matches your combo and in a 400 on the street, you`ll love the killer torque it has.
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...x?csid=86&sb=2
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Old 01-28-2011, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spikejl31
so for you i would say you want to look for a cam that had an advertised power band of 24-2600 thru 58-6000 so that you will acutally end up with around 19-2000 thru 53-5500 and still use a 2500 stall and 3.73's

So with that being said would this cam be more of what Im lookn for?

Lift: .465"/.488"
Adv. Duration: 282/292
RPM Range: 2200-5700


is that this cam

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-1105/

i dont like the 114LSA on it, but it wouldn't be bad for the street, but this cam is also made to be used with stock heads. that is why the duration and lift on the exhaust side is so much higher than it is on the intake side. with todays aftermarket heads there is no need to buy a cam that is that far offset on it's int/exh profiles. if i were to use this cam i would use a 1.6 rocker on the intake and a 1.5 rocker on the exhaust to help get it more even. the corrected lift with a set of 1.6 rockers on the intake would be .496". personally i would not use this cam, i dont like it's profile.

i know what i told you before about the power bands but honestly this would be a great cam in a street driven 400

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-1788/

what kind of power are you looking for, and what kind of driving charactaristics are you looking for. do you want to have to run a higher stall, what kind of gears are you planning on using. i ask this because i have built quite a few motors and i always tend to build them on the higher performance side. i may like the way a car drives with a bit more cam, gear and stall, but not everyone is like that. if you are looking for less than 375hp then dont go with the cams i am suggesting (375hp beefy for a daily driver).
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Old 01-28-2011, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoubleVision
While I`ve gotten to where I usually don`t recommend cams anymore since I am rather conservative in my picks and some don`t see that not everyone is looking for the fastest cam on the shelf, if it were I, I would use the cam I`ll post a link to, it matches your combo and in a 400 on the street, you`ll love the killer torque it has.
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...x?csid=86&sb=2


i agree with you DV, i tend to be the opposite, because i dont mind a vehicle that is a little harder to drive and maintain. that is why i posted my last post. i had to stop and think about what might be best for this the OP, not what i would use.

the cam that DV has suggested would make moster tq and would have great throttle response down low. it would make an excellent 4x4 cam. just not quite my style for a car. but "to-each-his-own"
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Old 01-28-2011, 02:14 PM
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The point I`ve always tried to make is, when the cam is too big, there`s little you can do but change the cam. While there are ways to crutch things when the cam is too big, but these are band aid fixes. I like low end torque on the street it`s just a blast and so much fun to drive, when it`s not there, it`s no fun to drive. To each his own is true, call me lazy, But I`d rather be paying attention to the highway, I don`t like to worry with anything else as I have to consider myself and other drivers.
However, when in the past I`ve gotten behind the wheel of something with a short stroke like old 327`s I didn`t mind winding it out, even so they ran out of breath at 5500 due to stock cams. 400`s with stock rods don`t like to be revved, so I always tried to be safe as possible when dealing with one with stock rods. Back when we mud raced we used a 400 with stock rods and forged pistons, we took home many 1st place trophy`s for the efforts. But when we stripped it down, we found the number 1 main bearing would not stay in place, the bearing would just rotate in the bore due to it being out of round from using a stock crank that was likely out of balance, and because we constantly revved it to 6 grand. On the street, it`s not often you get to rev`em anyhow so just more reason to give it more torque, if I can`t enjoy it up high, I will down low. I wasn`t meaning any of you who have posted your cam picks when I said what I did on my former post, I was referring to others on this board when someone wants a cam they don`t get specific so it`s always recommended the biggest cam possible. I build street cars for enjoyment so I try to make it easiest as possible.
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Old 01-28-2011, 03:48 PM
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While I`ve gotten to where I usually don`t recommend cams anymore since I am rather conservative in my picks and some don`t see that not everyone is looking for the fastest cam on the shelf, if it were I, I would use the cam I`ll post a link to, it matches your combo and in a 400 on the street, you`ll love the killer torque it has.
http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/...px?csid=86&sb=2

DV this is not the first time that this cam was mention to me. When it was mention the first time my setup was a lil different for as I was using different heads which were the 993s. Im lookn for it to perform when I ask for it. I dont want something thats to weak but not too radical either.
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Old 01-28-2011, 04:03 PM
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Well in this case, It`s plenty for what your looking to do, especially street wise. There won`t be anything "weak" about your combo. That cam has nice duration figures, it matches your converter and street power band also. By no means, don`t think I`m saying you have to use it. I`m just saying I would, simply because it matches the combo well. As was said, to each his own. With whatever you use, good luck.
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Old 01-28-2011, 04:15 PM
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Have you ever experienced the simple passion of the performer cam. No gear , or stall required. To keep cruising RPm down stay under 3.42 with 26" tire. The RPM intake will not be best with the performer cam.

You seem to already have in mind something, finish it. Do not call it done.
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Old 01-28-2011, 04:38 PM
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Going to a hydraulic roller cam is not just the extra expense of the cam and lifters, it's not just a drop in. You'll need to do a lot of machine work to install the guides and other hardware required to switch a flat tappet engine to roller.
There are additives in breakin oils and cam grease to allow the cam and lifters to breakin without damaging them. Once their broken in the modern oils wont be a problem. There's tons of vehicles running on the road with flat tappet lifters and not having the cams going bad. All 3 of mine are flat tappet and I'm not losing any cams.
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Old 01-28-2011, 05:10 PM
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DV what would be an est of my hp/torque with my setup with the xe268h?
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Old 01-28-2011, 05:36 PM
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While I`m certainly not great at guesstimating power levels. I`d say around 390 horses and torque around the 450 mark.
EDIT: I just fired up my old computer and old dyno program which I don`t give a whole lot of credit for it`s accuracy. It shows 350 horses and 430 torque. So by all means if the cam I suggested isn`t gonna give you what you want, then don`t use it.

Last edited by DoubleVision; 01-28-2011 at 06:03 PM.
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Old 01-28-2011, 09:07 PM
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MHO. I don't think you can beat a 268 grind for what you want. Smaller cam and you'll lose power, bigger cam and you'll gain some power above 4000 or so, but lose power below that. You want the 268 for a heavy, street driven Cutlass.

Streetability: Great throttle response, and with the 3.73s the torque converter will be "locked" by roughly 50 mph for highway cruising.

Getting on it: As long as your carb is tuned properly, the engine will pull hard the second you hit it to about 5600 ish (46 mph), then to 5600ish through second (76 mph) and then to whatever she'll pull in top gear-120ish.

Bottom line: It will be a blast to drive on the street, you can take it through the 1/4 for fun, and if you get tired of 3.73s rpm on the highway, you can go 3.5 ish (whatever is available for your rearend,) and the cam would still pull those gears strongly and the torque converter will still be in a good rpm range for lower highway speeds. Smaller is often faster on the street.
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