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Old 02-04-2009, 08:21 AM
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Summit paint

Has any one used Summit's new paint. And do you know the maker.

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Old 02-04-2009, 08:46 AM
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Moving this to the Body-Paint forum.....I think you will get better answers there.
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Old 02-04-2009, 03:25 PM
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It's repackaged Eastwood. Look at the catalogs back to back; same products, same marketing.

I've used some of Eastwood's products before, not bad for ametuer stuff. I use all professional products now- much better results.
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Old 02-04-2009, 10:51 PM
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Confucius say

But as Confucius say...
Good painter make any cheap paint look good.
Bad painter make Bad paint look Bad and Good paint look Very Very Bad
52F1
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Old 02-04-2009, 11:22 PM
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I too was thinking about using this paint. I'll probably just stick with the valspar that I've been using for a couple of years now.
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Old 02-05-2009, 12:38 AM
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I know I may get shot ....

I know I may get shot for this....But here goes anyway.
When I learned to paint I was told..And preached at to use the best paint possible. So I did..had to have Sikkens..PPG.....Glasurit..HOK (valspar)
As time went on I tried a cheaper brand and the another. what I found was That the cheaper lines were Already reduced more..NO 1:1 mix with your reducer but 3:1..4:1
So the paint did not go as far...Some times did not cover quite so well so a Extra coat was needed (sometimes)
But it all worked fine. No Problems No issues at all. Now I am talking about complete repaints not Blends. I always use a Good clear. I have used a low end Sherwin Williams...Not the 7000 and it has lasted 5 years and going strong. My findings are Such..When Beginning your painting endeavors..quality paints help the new guy lay down a better coat..they cover better..Spray on smoother. The quality Paints help the new guy get a better spray job...But soon you learn to paint right ?
I have not had Issues with Peeling or fading either..But most of those issues stem from POOR Substrate construction.. or Prep...NOT the paint..and Don't forget Always use a quality clear.

I now unless it is a Show car...use a lesser Brand...Heck does everyone know we are in a recession ? What is the reason for a TOP end base coat ? Other than a special color you might not get in the cheaper base. A couple weeks ago I shot some Matrix refinish base coat..covered it with a Good clear. The job looks great.
I think painters rely too much on Having to have the best paint they can Buy....and rely less on quality tools and Craftsmanship...Oh I know in a Shop environment you really may want to use the Best stuff to help with speed and ease of Spraying as well as warranty..But for the backyard guy.....No need for the Sikkens at 650.00 a gallon. I have not found the High dollar paint to really help the cause for a backyard guy on a budget.
I have Won my share of Best Paint at the shows..No one the wiser. I always here the scuttle butt...You know he is shooting Glasurit or Sikken..
I never tell. I really believe with Practice and a Quality Spray gun and tools Most people can make the CHEAP brands Look Good
And Hey If it is a Show Car...Or a high end car..well then Feel free...Shoot the most expensive Paint you can find!!..When it comes to High end cars..you have no choice!
And like I was taught to Spray it like it is Supposed to look...You should learn to shoot with Minimal Orange peel..and lay it on even right ?
Practice..Practice..Practice..before you shoot the real thing.
I bet the Summit racing paint works well..in the Hands of a Painter

52F1 Cheers

Last edited by 52F1; 02-05-2009 at 09:20 AM.
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Old 02-05-2009, 08:20 AM
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Thanks 52F1 .

Has anyone checked out Eastwood's single stage paints? They're really Kirker, which can be bought cheaper at autobodytoolmart.com ; however you can buy quarts from Eastwood.

Those Summitt paints are rattlecan 1K. They have a lot of different shades of grey for restoration products. Some of them are acrylic lacquers, but for what they are they are very high quality. Wheels I painted 5 years ago still look good on a daily driver to my surprise. Also, I have cleared them with SPI Universal clear without issues.
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Old 02-05-2009, 09:58 AM
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Summit paint

First off thank you to Poncho 62 for making the move. And I think 51F1 hit the nail on the head all the way. Good preparation,Good clear coat and Good a gun with a little practice. Will give you a good paint job. I did my first metallic paint job with a Kirker kit. I had some problems with the high metallic at first but, a call to Kirker got me thought that, so I did the frame at home mixing their clear coat with the color to make a good hard finish. Great it came out very good. But now came the body a two tone high metallic with to many hours of preparation to screw up. But I had to do it my self. So I took a class at school knowing they would have good guns,a booth and a instructor if needed. I did the paint job with a good gun, big deference. I started my Kirker clear coat it reacted. The instructor told me dump it and clean the gun, refilled the gun with a good grade of PPG clear coat. Came out great. I have a lot of people ask who did your paint.
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Old 02-05-2009, 10:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 32chevy vett
First off thank you to Poncho 62 for making the move. And I think 51F1 hit the nail on the head all the way. Good preparation,Good clear coat and Good a gun with a little practice. Will give you a good paint job. I did my first metallic paint job with a Kirker kit. I had some problems with the high metallic at first but, a call to Kirker got me thought that, so I did the frame at home mixing their clear coat with the color to make a good hard finish. Great it came out very good. But now came the body a two tone high metallic with to many hours of preparation to screw up. But I had to do it my self. So I took a class at school knowing they would have good guns,a booth and a instructor if needed. I did the paint job with a good gun, big deference. I started my Kirker clear coat it reacted. The instructor told me dump it and clean the gun, refilled the gun with a good grade of PPG clear coat. Came out great. I have a lot of people ask who did your paint.
I think it is Great you took a Class...See No Rocket Science..Just a Little knowledge before you pull the trigger. Every paint job you do from here on out you will learn from..and you will get better and better. I do have a Question...did they teach you to Spray it like it should look ? So you have less color sanding ? I remember being told...Color Sanding is for people who never learned to shoot paint....(normal car not show car)
You should learn to shoot without Orange peel or dry spray.
Too many guys today rely on Sanding to get a good finish.
This is how it should Look..Cut down on the color sanding

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9tsuXTb7Y7I

52F1
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Old 02-06-2009, 12:57 PM
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Summit paint

I've done 5 or 6 one step paint jobs but never a high metallic silver with clear coat. But my roadster was a driver, show car and I wanted it to be the best I could do. I had No orange peel,No runs and No dry spray and you are right the more you do the better they look. I did sand with 1200 and compound to get rid of the surface shine and get a deep shine. It makes more work but I like the looks better. And your right its not rocket science. You can see photos in my photo gallery. That I took at school.
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Old 02-06-2009, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 32chevy vett
I've done 5 or 6 one step paint jobs but never a high metallic silver with clear coat. But my roadster was a driver, show car and I wanted it to be the best I could do. I had No orange peel,No runs and No dry spray and you are right the more you do the better they look. I did sand with 1200 and compound to get rid of the surface shine and get a deep shine. It makes more work but I like the looks better. And your right its not rocket science. You can see photos in my photo gallery. That I took at school.
That Silver you shot looks Great. Silver metallic is one of the hardest paints to get right..Great job!! and the Color Sanding you did was to go BEYOND what most people would accept.

Did you shoot that in a Booth or your Garage?

Maybe it is Rocket Science ???

Great Job...Good Gun Hand
I am Hearing everywere what JUNK water based paint is. The Water base I have shot has been the easiest paint I have shot and covered better than Solvent based paint... Just about eliminates Tiger Stripes...I think it would be Good for beginnners to try as we will be forced to shoot water based soon

You have the Science Down (rocket) Keep up the Good Work

52F1

Last edited by 52F1; 02-06-2009 at 01:43 PM.
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Old 02-06-2009, 04:25 PM
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Hey boys I'll lern ya bout paint check out this post. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/roll...ob-152633.html
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Old 02-07-2009, 10:50 AM
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summit paint

Thank you for the compliment. Yes this was why I spend the money on the school. Was so I could get to use their booth so I could keep it clean and bake the paint job and use real good guns. I had done a class on auto body in the past so I known they had the best tools to work with. Can you tell more about this new water base paint you used. As by the time my 36 ford is ready for paint and the way every thing is going green I would most likely have to use it. Thank you for your input.
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Old 02-07-2009, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 32chevy vett
Thank you for the compliment. Yes this was why I spend the money on the school. Was so I could get to use their booth so I could keep it clean and bake the paint job and use real good guns. I had done a class on auto body in the past so I known they had the best tools to work with. Can you tell more about this new water base paint you used. As by the time my 36 ford is ready for paint and the way every thing is going green I would most likely have to use it. Thank you for your input.
OK here is what I know so far...I am Not an Expert by any means..But I Love to paint and Love to try new things.
The water based paint covers so well and has such good matching qualities that DuPont is teaching to complete a panel and then Move to the next panel. If you did that with Solvent based paint (metallic) nothing would match.
The water based seemed to want a slightly higher fluid volume 1/2 turn out.
It sprays out easier and flows better. It goes on looking really wet but dries to a nice flat finish. I would say it took about 1/5 the paint to do the car..it covers that well. Seems you have NO Tiger Striping problems at all.
(I had no need for a drop coat)

You do need Air movement to get it to dry. IF you don't get Air movement it will take up to 45 min to set..I called PPG about it and the guy told me they sell Air guns to get the air moving (garage Situation) But he asked Why spend the money ? Don't you have Electric Fans ? I did as told and the fans dried the paint in about 5-10 min....you don't blow the air right on the paint..Just Air Movement around the car does the trick.
All in All it is BETTER. ..ONE catch your not going to get away shooting in Cold weather..Below 60 deg. If it is cold you better have a heated booth.
I have only shot 2 cars with it..But it was Better Paint..Once you get over all the Bad Rap (unfounded)
I found the Biggest problem here where I live (California) was the Paint suppliers..ALL the warnings..Got to have a New or Special spray gun...GOT to have the Air movers..won't spray well..All Baloney....They just found a Way to make aother BUCK...Did they forget about the recession
and the little guy
Now the Paint suppliers are coming around though..I think Most of it was to scare you away (waterbased) and be able to Unload their solvent based paint stock...Always about the dollar. Now that most of the solvent based is Off the shelf they have Great things to say about waterbased as well as Most painters .

The guys doing repair/blend jobs all Love the stuff as almost all new cars are water based paint making a match easier now since the paint chemicals match.

I think the best thing you can do is Go Buy I quart of Water based..Shoot it.. Clear it on a old hood..Play with it... get to know it..you just might Like it. For sure it is Safer for you...I cant wait for the water based Clear to be Affordable. Right now Only SIkkens has it available for Automotive Aplications( not fact ...Rumor)

I have used waterbased with my Iwata...My PLUS.....and old Platinum..all worked fine...All these guns have SST needles and stuff.
Just remember you can shoot Water based with ANY spray gun..but if it Does not have SST components through out It won't last in a Shop Environment. I did notice I got the best Finish again with My Iwata LPH 400 Hands down...Perfection as Usual with this gun!!
If you are a Garage painter doing 5 or 6 jobs a year then just take it apart clean and lube it well when done It will last forever.
So No Need to run out and Buy a new gun...I used the plastic cup system I have..as I have been told the paint tends to stick to the aluminum cups
making cleanup harder (suggested by devilbiss)
...Just a couple Box fans..and have plenty of Deionized water to reduce with and clean up with.
Sorry for being so long winded about this Water based stuff..But it is Exciting stuff..and Better

52F1
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Old 02-14-2009, 07:21 PM
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Summit paint

52F1 Thanks all good feed back
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