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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2004, 11:45 AM
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Ed,
Every engine wants something different. Blown engines like a lot of initial timing (typically). With that said I have mine set at 13* initial and 33* total. I know a lot of guys run 16-18* initial and 34-36* total. I have mine tuned very mild. Once I get my new ignition bow from Crane I will hook up my boost retard and then I will increase the initial timing to about 16-18* and see how that works.

If I were you I would start at 12 and slowly work my way up until you get the best performance as long as you keep your total under control, you shouldn't have a problem. I highly doubt you will want to run more than 38* total. You may have to play with the weights and springs in your distributor to get it where you want it.

The best thing to do is to play around with it.

Royce

Edit: Looks like the car is coming along good. Those rear tires are going to have their work cut out for them huh?

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Old 04-17-2004, 01:40 PM
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Lmao thoose things got to go I can spin through third if I want right now and the tune is nowhere near perfect. LMAO. I plan on mini tubbing it this winter with at least a 12 in tire.
Thanks for the help Royce. also is your battery in the trunk? if so how do you do your timing light hook up? I been using a spare bat. or pulling the truck up close to the car. its a pain.
Ed
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Old 04-17-2004, 08:16 PM
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I didn't think that was enough tire for the engine you have. It will look good mini tubbed. I would like to get ahold of an old diesel cutlass (same body style as yours), we have smog laws here so you can only legally hot rod cars that are 25 years or older. With diesel on the registration there is no smog check. I have thought about doing that for years. I just might have to get serious about that.

Yes, my battery is in the trunk. I hook my timing light to either my alternator (the battery post on it) or to my horn relay on the radiator support.

Royce
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Old 04-17-2004, 09:52 PM
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They are getting hard to find around here, but I live in the rust belt too. The cutlass is different took it out tonight and got a couple of "nice car man what is it" LOL it did run strong tonight I appreciate the help, and I love that 70 you have.
Ed
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Old 04-17-2004, 11:15 PM
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Thanks.

There are a plenty of them to choose from out here (Cutlass) the problem is you can't hot rod them and still drive them on the street. That is why I would have to find a diesel. I don't know why more people don't hot rod them, they are good looking cars fairly light and very plentiful (out here), the only draw back is the smog thing.

Enjoy that car and I am glad I could help a little.

Royce
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Old 04-18-2004, 12:31 AM
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I am definitely asking this as a question, not as an answer to what you have been discussing here. Someone mentioned velocity a few replys back, and I could not help but notice how thick the spacer is under the carbs. Do you think that will hurt velocity at instantaneous wide open throttle?
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Old 04-18-2004, 11:07 AM
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I would think not just based on this , it start before it turns over once, has no other strange actions. The rotors spinning in the blower cuase plenty of downforce for the carbs. And I have run tunnel rams that did cuase a velocity change. But I figure Royce can explain it better.
Ed
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Old 04-18-2004, 11:33 AM
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I am no expert. The spacer might/will have some effect on low speed velocity but, with the supercharger he should easily be able to tune for that. It will not have the same effect on a blown engine as it would on a N/A egnine. The rotors help keep the velocity and atomization at a more efficient level.

I highly doubt the spacer is causing the problem he was having. I know guys that ran edelbrocks on a 6-71 with no additional spacer and they still had to tune out the flat spots.

Ed is on the right track, once he finishes the tune up I don't think it will be an issue.

Royce
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