[T-bucket23]

Originally Posted by Artemis Entreri

Cant seem to find anything on the magna charger 122 they used in the article. Been thinking about going with another small SC, the weiand 142 or 144.

Anyone use one of these, yay or nay?

I am running a Weiand 142 on a chevy 350 crate engine and it was a very simple installation. The additional power is pretty impressive. Mine is in a 1600 pound t-bucket so it goes pretty good and can fry the tires for miles. It is by far the easiest bolt on HP an TQ you can add. As mentioned above you will need a specially prepared carb also. I paid under 300 for mine from a carb rebuilder and it works mint.

[Artemis Entreri]

Hemmi you said THE supercharging book, is there one I should be reading specifically?
Also, what is the big difference between the 142 and 144? They both say they add the same amount of power I believe..
When I get a game plan together I might just get ahold of you Hemmi.

Tbucket, that is a sweeeeet ride, one day i'll have something like that, lol.

Thanks alot
Steve

[jameskirk1]

Originally Posted by Artemis Entreri

Thanks alot, thats a nice s10, how much does that truck weigh? Approximately 3200lbs with me and alot of stereo in it.

Are blower carbs that much more expensive? Depends...I paid around $525 for mine after alot of trial and error trying to modify a "N/A" carb. (I'm picky about driveability)

Upgrade my fuel system, like a pump upgrade and stuff? You need to keep at least 6psi at the carb under full boost/high RPM situation; stock pump and lines usually won't keep up with a blown engine.

As for exaust I was going with headers right into glasspacks for now, wont be driving the car everyday. Thats fine...Exhaust tuning goes out the window with a supercharger, you just want the least restriction possible...

BTM? Dont want to sound ignorant, but huh? MSD Boost Timing Master
Like what kind of rev limiter? Anykind of aftermarket rev limiter, my foot isn't fast enough to keep from over-revving like it was N/A.

Also, was your cam a off the shelf supercharger cam, or a custom grind?
It was an off the shelf Comp Nitrous HP cam (also ideal for supercharger)

And are those the stock pulleys that come with the 142 you are using with 8.5:1 cr? Yes. It will make around 6lbs on a stock longblock with "mild" exhaust

Sorry for all the questions, but thanks.
Steve

No problem

***Edit: I answered your questions above, inside the quote.

[Richard Ellis]

Yes the roots style is the classic way to go & a blower camgrind is needed, try 'Blower Drive Service' they have full bolt-on kits with the classic GMC style. The 100-150 hp increase is extremely conservative , Forged pistons are a must for the big HP numbers. And yes, intake port flow really doesn't mean much for street engines & exaust flow isn't really relevent either.
With the low CR forged pistons, cam, matching carb & a good ignition 700BHP is very doable...assuming you won't overtax the bottom end.
____________________________________________Rick.. ............

[T-bucket23]

Originally Posted by Artemis Entreri

Hemmi you said THE supercharging book, is there one I should be reading specifically?
Also, what is the big difference between the 142 and 144? They both say they add the same amount of power I believe..
When I get a game plan together I might just get ahold of you Hemmi.

Tbucket, that is a sweeeeet ride, one day i'll have something like that, lol.

Thanks alot
Steve

A 142 and a 144 are very similar, I think the 142 is a little newer design and Weiand only. There are a lot of different 144's, Weiand, B&M and a few others make 144's. The number is actually representitive of the airflow displacement.
There is a lot of good info on the blower drive services website as well as other blower sites. If you stick with the stock setup on a 142 it will be fairly safe on a decent engine. The Weiand site also has a ton of good info.

[Artemis Entreri]

Yea, I think im going to stick with the weiand 142 for my vortec heads.
Cant seem to find any forged pistons that will give me the desired 8:1 or so CR with my 64cc heads though, lowest I can find is 9:1.

And forged pistons are expensive!

[bonzipenguins]

I've always dealt with powerhouse with pistons because they have a machine shop in their shop.I've been there,and had them cut the pistons to get me to my desired cr,according to specs I gave them.Very good work.
www.enginekits.com
they might already have the right pistons

[Artemis Entreri]

Thanks, best I can find there is from probe pistons, 8.75:1 or so.
Are forged pistons needed for a supercharger because of excess psi or from the power?

If im making 5-7 psi and 500 or so HP, are forged pistons absolutely necessary?

[bonzipenguins]

you really should,but there not untirely necessary on a mild build.

[bonzipenguins]

I know people crazier than me that have got by with cast one but i'd never go less than hyperutectic

[Artemis Entreri]

Yea, Ive seen quite a few articles using stock rot assemblies with blowers making in the 500hp range, think im going to stick with hypers at first, canalways upgrade to forged.

I havent taken a engine apart yet, but I can change the pistons without pulling the engine from my car right?
Empty the oil
Pull thepan
Take off main caps
Crank and rot assembly will come out then correct?

[bonzipenguins]

I would think the cross member would get in the way,Plus most of the time the oil pan wont come off without lifting the engine,because the oil pump mostly.if I had to run hypers Id try to keep the engine as cool as possible.

[Artemis Entreri]

I'll probably be running a clutch fan at first, but once the engine is in and tuned one of the first things I will be doing is definantly putting big ol electric fans in.

Other then that, how do I keep the engine cool?
Keep a low temp thermostat in?

[bonzipenguins]

Yeah a 165 thermostat
aluminum radiator(dont forget a tranny cooler)
better oil(thicker)
high flow water pump preferably
high flow oil pump
deeper pan

[camaroman7d]

Yes, You "NEED" forged pistons for anything over 4lbs of boost. Hyper pistons are cast pistons and have no place in a blown engine. It's your money you can pay now or pay more later, either way you will have to pay. Forged pistons are much stronger and can tolerate the higher heat that will be in the combustion chamber due to the added boost/power. With a cast piston if for some reason you ping/detonate the engine one time you will have a shattered piston, What do you think that rod and wrist pin will do to your bore/block? I'm all for getting the most for your money and taking calculated chances but, trying to run cast pistons in a blown engine is not a good idea.

How much power are you trying to make? Why do you want a blower? (for the look or to make power?). If it's for looks then just drop the boost down to 4psi or less and have at it. If you want to make power you need to get the parts to support it.

The best suggestion I have seen so far is to buy the book called Street Supercharging by SA Designs. Before you spend a dime on an engine part you need to buy this book and read up a bit. I always suggest this book to first time blower guys. I have a very old copy of the book that I read for years before I ever started playing with blowers. Once you read that book you will have the basic idea of what's going on and how things work. It does not have all the answers but, will give you the knowledge to ask questions and understand the answers.

I am in no way trying to discourage you, you'll love having a blown engine. You just need to build it right for the application. There's more to it than bolting on the blower, I know catalogs, web sites, ads, try to make it sound like ou just bolt on 250HP but, it doesn't work that way.

Royce