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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2007, 12:25 AM
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supporting vehicle safely

first off i know im not liked here i lied its understandable and im sorry. i need some help with this i dont want to get crushed by my car. give me another chance?

im am needing to lift my car about a foot to a foot and a half off the ground. i am working in a driveway with about a 10 degree slope. can i use jack stands welded to old steel rims that was suggested. also suggested was was to male a triangle frame from angle iron that had plates that would mount to the lug nuts. like this


something like this was also mentioned


car is a 86 monte carlo i am painting the frame with epoxy primer

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Old 10-29-2007, 03:35 AM
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First of all, DON'T LIE!!!

These are good people here and they WILL spot a lie in a heartbeat and they WILL give you the riot act (deservingly)!!! Find someplace level to raise the vehicle! If need be, level the area where you are working. A 10 degree slope is enough to cause an unstable condition for a raised vehicle. Two years ago I had my son's Honda setting on some Wal-Mart 12" jack stands on a smooth level concrete driveway. I lit up a cigarette and leaned against the car and it slipped off one of the stands. Thats all it took, once it started to go that was it... and the car was on the ground. The triangle brackets would work but I would prefer to use very strong/heavy tall 4 leg jack stands. AS LONG AS THE VEHICLE IS ON THE STANDS, NEVER TRUST IT... ALWAYS EXPECT IT TO FALL!!!

Remember, If you want to shoot the crap (lie), bench race/BS, ect. There are other websites available.
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Old 10-29-2007, 03:56 AM
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ya i know i came here and lied hopefully i can get another chance. i was thinking of using the triangle brackets and using a few tapcond (concrete screws to fasten them to the concrete
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Old 10-29-2007, 04:12 AM
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also need a compressor to spray the epoxy primer. can i get a good enough compressor for around 150
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Old 10-29-2007, 06:32 AM
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You really need to be on a level surface not 10 degrees.....that is a accident waiting to happen. Do you have any other place where you can do this? Thats what you need to do.
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Old 10-29-2007, 06:51 AM
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i have the option to rent a 2 car garage for 100 a week.

you think i could pull motor trans suspension, sandblast and paint. in a week max 2.

im not working so i can do like 12 and 14 hour shifts
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Old 10-29-2007, 06:58 AM
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Heaven forbid that you get crushed..................., or your girlfriend will have to post for you again..................... ....kidding

You really want a level surface....if you are pulling front end components, you are going to be reefing on the bolts pretty good and it will move quite easy, whether level or not. On an angle, it is going to move real easy. Get at least 6 ton jackstands too.
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Old 10-29-2007, 07:37 AM
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before i did anything i was going to remove the front clip. to gain better access to the front frame etc etc.

if i have a flat surface i should be fine with just regular jackstands i have that are welded in the inside of steel rims correct?

also any suspension components can be loosed slightly before she is suspended in the air. im still debating whether or not to pull engine and trans or not. i would give better access to trans hump and firewall and less suspended weight. so its sounds good just adds more time to the process
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Old 10-29-2007, 07:44 AM
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If you pull the engine/tranny, you won't have the weight on the frame to help put the front end back together...same with the clip......Just my experience.
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Old 10-29-2007, 08:52 AM
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Find a level surface to work on, it is not worth taking a chance over this. I personally have had vehicles fall off jackstands and that was on level ground. The spot I put the jackstand under looked solid but it wasn't. I was trying to get a rear drum off by tugging on it and the next thing I knew, the jack went through the unitized frame and the car fell to the ground. Make sure you use jackstands on level ground and put them on a solid spot on the car, because rust hides.
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Old 10-29-2007, 09:09 AM
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i plan on 4 jack stand and some sort of frame that will be able to support the weight if it falls or to cushion the blow.
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Old 10-29-2007, 12:50 PM
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For me, it is standard practice to put it up on jack stands and then give the car a really good shake at each jack position to make sure it's sturdy. Any imbalance or shifting can be felt/hear/seen at this point and corrected before I do it while wrenching under the car. I also leave a floor jack underneath if I have the room.
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Old 10-29-2007, 12:57 PM
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Whatever you do, once the car is up, as Arcuden said, do EVERYTHING possible to try to get the vehicle to move off the jacks (with tires on of course).

If you can make the car move with your body, don't be under it.
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Old 10-29-2007, 01:50 PM
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this is one area you don't want to take any chances with. find a level area or put off doing the work until you can find a level area. iam useing the 1 ' square wood blocks and jack stands to hold up my cougar. but i have it supported in 6 places and its on a level concret floor.
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Old 10-29-2007, 04:35 PM
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Working on an angle is not an option in my mind. I wouldn't do it under any conditions.

5 yr ago when I was a newb with the diesel truck I set it up on the front with 2 2 ton jack stands under the front. I didn't realized that it weighs 4500 just for the front end. It was a little unsteady so I gave it a good shove and ...boom one stand bent over and almost immediately the other cast iron top split on the other stand and down she came. .......I stood there shaking a little.

Today I use 2 4 ton jack stands and a 10 ton hyd jack before I even look under the truck. Plus I use at least 4 4x4 wood blocks that I carry in the bed for wheel chocks. You ought to see what a 1 ton dually does to the plastic ramps. haha good for a laugh any day.

Made me rethink the supports under my streetrod too. It only weighs 2600# but it now has 4 4 ton stands and 2 10 ton jacks too. I'm paranoid.
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