I usually spray it down with phosphoric acid 1st, what is best after that? I was going to seal it with epoxy primer but there's body work to do 1st. I will DA all I can off but there is places you can't get to. Should I Use high build primer and when it's done seal it with epoxy?
The procedure that we have settled on here is to get the parts cleaned the best that you can and them apply 2 wet coats of epoxy. The parts can them be placed in storage until they are needed. Saves a lot of time and trouble to do it that way.. The epoxy primer will not interfere with future body work at all..
Have you painted right over epoxy primer? Looks like it would make a good sealer. Also, I guess it won't hurt spraying high build or filler primer over it?
Yes paint can be applied to the epoxy primer.. Just need to scuff it if it has been setting for a while.. I use a high build primer such as SPI turbo over the epoxy for the blocking step.. Each to his own though..Marson Platinum for filler if it is needed..
Epoxy is the best thing to put anything over, period, whether it's other primers, paint, filler, etc. You don't want to be putting 2k down on bare metal. It's also the best thing to put base coat over.
phosphric acid works great for removing rust and keeping it rust free while working or storing bare metal ...It can be tricky though it needs good prep before it can be primed theres a few ways to do it properly I suggest you breeze through "the ospho solution" thread before you prime or your primer might not stick well...
After primer and before you start any filler work you need to check for good adheasion by trying to scrape some off,just to be sure its right....
Epoxy primer is BEST over bare metal.
what I like to do is epoxy then do my filler work then epoxy again (like an epoxy sandwich) after thats done you have the option of using a 2k build primer or more epoxy primer...(I like epoxy only) but not all epoxies are the same.SPI is the one I use because it seals the metal and filler work great and it also sands easily it also builds well when you need it to and its a great paint sealer so theres really no need for any other primer...
but I've been at this for many years and my filler work doesnt need much work when I'm done ,when I started out I wasnt so good and build primers came in very handy for getting my filler work looking nice and straight. If you need a 2k build primer think of it as more filler (a spray on bondo) and apply the 2k over the filler but after its all sanded seal it in with the epoxy and continue on....
Thanks, that is helpful. Has anyone ever used just shops paints and primers? They have a bunch of stuff. Flat z colors and such. Sorry this spell ck on this phone changes stuff.
never heard of it but look into SPI (southern polyurathane ?) Exellent primers and paints at a reasonable price...I've been using them exclusively for several years now...They make the best epoxy primer I've ever used many others feel the same way.Just do a search at the top and punch in epoxy primer.before you pull the trigger...
is there a specific epoxy primer they sell? product #? i'm looking to make a purchase and looked on there (spi) site but they have many to choose. I want to keep it simple as well and if I can do it all with one epoxy primer then that is the route I would like to go. thanks in advance
They just have one epoxy primer. However in my opinion if you're inexperienced you won't get the results you want if you just try to use epoxy for everything, and I think it would make things more difficult. And I say that as an amateur myself. It depends on your project and goals.
the part number is 6620-1 black and the 6700 activator.. mixes one to one so for the small user I recommend the quart units as each quart unit makes a half gallon sprayable..
I have the tel # in my phone but I'm not sure if its Barrys personal tel so I cant really post it online but it should be easy enough to get on the forum.
Dont worry its not at all like calling some giant corp. its more like calling a friend I call all the time with stupid little questions...like can I use the Euro clear hardner in the universal clear. but I'm always trying to make it quick because I know hes very busy and in the end its always him that wants to talk longer like old friends that havent talked in a while....So dont worry about calling at all you'll see how he is, especially if your buying something.
Lizer brings up a good point also about the build qualities of the epoxy,if I remember correctly he was having a lot of trouble getting his stang hood straight and thats an unusually hard spot to deal with and if you run into something like that then a qt of his 2k will be like gods gift to you. but generally the epoxy will be all you need.
All that said, we have so many talented guys here that want to help you get your job done right that between SPI and HR there isnt a whole lot more you'll need to get that car done nice...
The tech line for SPI is posted on their website, but it is Barry's cell phone. However it's just like Mike has said. You try to make it quick but Barry has the gift to gab, so he can make for a long conversation. . How often do you find THAT!?
And by the way Mike, here's how that pesky hood turned out...
so much helpful advice here, thanks everyone. VHT, thanks for starting the thread and no intention to thread jack!
I have limited experience being I am a hobbyist and back yard builder, but like to research and use the best possible products.
Had a gallon of epoxy primer DTM from Kustom Shop, but the stuff is a few years old and I was concerned about still using it so I have been shopping around for new stuff and found this. So if I need to do a bit of filler I should go with one of there other filler primers? I like to get the panel as straight as possible before any filler is used so I may be good with just the epoxy as long as it sands as good as I have read...I look forward to trying this product in the near future!
Don't worry about thread jacking, the more questions, the more we learn. I don't claim to be a body man. I've done a lot of it because I couldn't afford to have it done. Used to replace a lot of quarters for a body shop when he would get behind. The way it is now, if you don't do it every day, things and materials change. The only way to know is ask. Thanks everyone.
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