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Old 02-25-2009, 04:15 PM
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swap 283 to 327 impala 1967

hy. i drive a 67 impala fastback the car hat a 283 engine with powerglide.
i have byued a old 327 engine for rebuilding.
my question is, would the 327 work better in my car?
i think the 283 is to mild for the heavy impala with powerglide.

i try to built a 327 275hp or 300 hp
do someone know the technical specs for this 327?
which pistons? how much compression? how big are the intake an exhaus valves? what aftermarket heads would by good for this engine?
do someone know the trick flow heads? or are edelbrock better?
do someone run the procomp heads on ebay?

now i have buyed a edelbrock eps performer intake 0-5500 rpm
and the crane cam blueprint 327 300hp
and a barry grand road demon carb 525 cfm vakuum secondaris
speed pro pistons hypereutectic
and scat rods
what heads and how much compression should i use to get 275 -300 hp from the 327?

is balancing from the rotating assembly a must when i rebuilt a engine?
are original factory engines from the 60s balanced?
or is balancing only for racing a must?
can i balance the roating assembly at home in do it yourself??


i want built a mild engine for street use with good fuel milage.
and good torque

should i also swap the transmission and the rear end ratio?
or do the 327 also work with my powerglide an rear end from 283?
do someone know the rear end ratio from my car??
i have a old th 350 would this work better for my car?

iam new here and i hope someone can help me
i want a weekend cruiser with good gas milage. becouse fuel in germany are very expensive.
thanks ricolala

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Old 02-25-2009, 04:26 PM
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Yes a 327 would be better....and for a heavy car like that a 350 would likely be better still.....Both are bolt ins, as the outside block sizes are the same on all of them.
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Old 02-26-2009, 02:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ricolala
hy. i drive a 67 impala fastback the car hat a 283 engine with powerglide.
i have buyed a old 327 engine for rebuilding.
my question is, would the 327 work better in my car?
i think the 283 is to mild for the heavy impala with powerglide.

i try to built a 327 275hp or 300 hp
do someone know the technical specs for this 327?
which pistons? how much compression? how big are the intake an exhaust valves? what aftermarket heads would by good for this engine?
do someone know the trick flow heads? or are edelbrock better?
do someone run the procomp heads on ebay?

now i have buyed a edelbrock eps performer intake 0-5500 rpm
and the crane cam blueprint 327 300hp
and a barry grand road demon carb 525 cfm vakuum secondaris
speed pro pistons hypereutectic
and scat rods
what heads and how much compression should i use to get 275 -300 hp from the 327?

is balancing from the rotating assembly a must when i rebuilt a engine?
are original factory engines from the 60s balanced?
or is balancing only for racing a must?
can i balance the rotating assembly at home in do it yourself??


i want built a mild engine for street use with good fuel mileage.
and good torque

should i also swap the transmission and the rear end ratio?
or do the 327 also work with my powerglide an rear end from 283?
do someone know the rear end ratio from my car??
i have a old th 350 would this work better for my car?

iam new here and i hope someone can help me
i want a weekend cruiser with good gas milage. becouse fuel in germany are very expensive.
thanks ricolala
I agree with Poncho, the 327 will be better & a 350 more so. The TH350 trans will work better also.
The easiest way to determine your cars rear gear ratio would be to remove the housing cover. The large ring gear will have the numbers stamped into it. Such as 41/10 = 4.10, Divide the number of teeth on the ring gear by number of teeth on the pinion gear. Your ratio will be much lower such as 2.73.
Balancing the crankshaft must be done in an automotive shop. The pistons & rods can be balanced at home. Rods must have the Big end and Small end balanced or weight matched. A digital scale that has at least a 1gram readout is best.
The 300HP 327 had around 10:1 Compression ratio in stock form. Make sure your engine will run properly with fuel octane ratings where you live. I'm not sure how it's rated there compared to the U.S.
I'd stay away from the ProComp heads. The other brands are much better.
This site has plenty of Information & Specifications on all the Small Block Chevys. I'm sure someone here has a 327 build they can recommend when they know what type/octane rating fuel you want to use.
http://www.chevytech.com/1c4o9.html
http://www.chevytech.com/
Remember the SBC 327 came with 2 different crankshafts, large & small journal sizes.
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Old 02-26-2009, 12:59 PM
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I drove with a 327 for a long time, they are very strong.
The 350 auto will be good. The rear gear ratio can be found thru a Chevy dealer if you have the code sticker in the glove box.
Good luck!
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Old 02-27-2009, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ricolala
hy. i drive a 67 impala fastback the car hat a 283 engine with powerglide.
i have byued a old 327 engine for rebuilding.
my question is, would the 327 work better in my car?
i think the 283 is to mild for the heavy impala with powerglide.

i try to built a 327 275hp or 300 hp
do someone know the technical specs for this 327?
which pistons? how much compression? how big are the intake an exhaus valves? what aftermarket heads would by good for this engine?
do someone know the trick flow heads? or are edelbrock better?
do someone run the procomp heads on ebay?

now i have buyed a edelbrock eps performer intake 0-5500 rpm
and the crane cam blueprint 327 300hp
and a barry grand road demon carb 525 cfm vakuum secondaris
speed pro pistons hypereutectic
and scat rods
what heads and how much compression should i use to get 275 -300 hp from the 327?

is balancing from the rotating assembly a must when i rebuilt a engine?
are original factory engines from the 60s balanced?
or is balancing only for racing a must?
can i balance the roating assembly at home in do it yourself??


i want built a mild engine for street use with good fuel milage.
and good torque

should i also swap the transmission and the rear end ratio?
or do the 327 also work with my powerglide an rear end from 283?
do someone know the rear end ratio from my car??
i have a old th 350 would this work better for my car?

iam new here and i hope someone can help me
i want a weekend cruiser with good gas milage. becouse fuel in germany are very expensive.
thanks ricolala

The good news is that your goals should be fairly easy to meet. The good mileage is the tricky goal. For your modest power goals you dont need scat rods, nothing wrong with having them though.

Unless Im mistaken the 300 HP 327 was just a basic stock 327, flattop pistons, stock cam, camelhump heads with 194 intake valves. Pretty easy to reproduce. I think they used a Quadrajet.

Whatever you do dont get heads with big combustion chambers or big intake runners. They will kill both your torque and your mileage. The factory fuelie heads work great for a mild 327. You could use a set of aftermarket heads and make 325 hp rather easily and still get decent mileage.

You want heads to have no bigger than 64/65cc chambers. That is important. A Quadrajet or Edelbrock carburetor would work good for your goals. And since you already have an intake you need to use the right kind of heads. If the intake is made for old style heads or Vortec style, they are different.

I have an old Chevelle that Im puting a 327 into. It has a powerglide. A good upgrade is a Turbo 350 transmission because it is an easy upgrade and the extra 1st gear gives a LOT more torque, but it can also help out with mileage because it is more efficient from a stop and you dont have to rev up as much before shifting.

Hope that helps and good luck with your classic car.
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Old 02-27-2009, 02:30 PM
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Oh yea, ballancing. David Vizzard goes into this in his book "how to build hoesepower in a small block Chevy". From the information inside I did my own balancing with the use of a digital scale and a rod ballancing jig. To put it in a nutshell, yes, motors are balanced from the factory and they do need to be ballanced. But that is a generalized statement. Ballancing a motor properly is complicated. It involves weighing pistons, rods, wrist pins, bearings.... The whole rotating assembly. Then it involves ballancing the crankshaft to match the rest of the rotating assembly which requires expensive equipment.

Heres the good news though. There is some built in variation reguarding crankshaft counter ballancing, because it is not matched to the weight of the other parts, but to a "percentage" of the other parts.. and most pistons and wrist pins are commonly weight matched to ballance out close to factory specs. I made a special jig and weighed my rods. The factory ballancing job varied as much as 7 grams. Your scat rods should already be better than that. Pistons are a HUGE part of balancing and are weight matched out of the box. Some high performance parts like rods and pistons are lighter than factory, but they are still weight matched, and a lighter rotating assembly wont really hurt the ballancing job. What all this adds up to, is for what you are doing I would advise just puting it together and rolling with it. And with the scat rods you will probably already have better ballancing than factory. But if you have the funds a good ballancing job from a machine shop is always a good thing to have done.

Last edited by 65smallblock; 02-27-2009 at 02:50 PM.
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Old 02-27-2009, 02:37 PM
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I don't know how hard it is to find a SBC 400 in Germany, that would be the best swap. About 1970 or so GM started installing the 400 in the Impalas
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Old 02-28-2009, 01:56 AM
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Swap

If you are going to swap transmissions go with a 200R4 or 700R4 overdrive this is much better for fuel economy than a Powerglide or 350Turbo And Guys, remember He is in Germany and they have this road called "The Autobahn" no speed limit
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Old 02-28-2009, 05:19 PM
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i have a old stile edelbrock eps intake for old style original heads.
whar heats should i use?
i have the original camel hump heads but the must be restored.
i will go with good aftermaket alu heads

how much intake runners should i use?
is the edelbrock perfomer head to big?
64ccm chamber
2.02 1,60 valves
intake runner 170ccm
exhaust 65ccm

trick flow hat small heads with
56ccm chamber 1.94 1,50 valves
175ccm intake
65ccm exhaust runners.

i have dual exhaust with stock ram horn manifolds
( i will use the 283 ram horn manifold. i there a different to the 327 ram horn manifolds?) i dont like the look of headers

the cam is crane blueprint 327 300 hp lift .390 /.410 duration @.050
195/202 rpm 800-4500

what heads should i use. do someone built a motor like this??
i like to use 10,5 :1 compression .
i use premium fuel 95 octane.
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Old 02-28-2009, 09:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1ownerT
I don't know how hard it is to find a SBC 400 in Germany, that would be the best swap. About 1970 or so GM started installing the 400 in the Impalas
I'll second that and the 200-4R or 700R4 trans with a 3.55 or 3.73 gear. That's a heavy car.

Back when I was a kid a friend had a '67 Impala SS with a 396/325 HP, 4 speed and 3.31 posi. It was a blast and fooled a lot of people. Another kid had a '67 SS with a 327/300HP, Poweglide and 3.31 and it was a roach. Then there was another '67 SS in the next town with a 427/390HP, TH400 and 3.73 posi THAT was another story altogether!!!
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Old 03-01-2009, 04:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ricolala
i have a old stile edelbrock eps intake for old style original heads.
whar heats should i use?
i have the original camel hump heads but the must be restored.
i will go with good aftermaket alu heads

how much intake runners should i use?
is the edelbrock perfomer head to big?
64ccm chamber
2.02 1,60 valves
intake runner 170ccm
exhaust 65ccm

trick flow hat small heads with
56ccm chamber 1.94 1,50 valves
175ccm intake
65ccm exhaust runners.

i have dual exhaust with stock ram horn manifolds
( i will use the 283 ram horn manifold. i there a different to the 327 ram horn manifolds?) i dont like the look of headers

the cam is crane blueprint 327 300 hp lift .390 /.410 duration @.050
195/202 rpm 800-4500

what heads should i use. do someone built a motor like this??
i like to use 10,5 :1 compression .
i use premium fuel 95 octane.
I would use the 56cc Trick Flow heads if you want 10.5Cr, the 64cc heads will give you about 9.5Cr.
Try to keep the Deck height / Piston to Head clearance close to .040"-.045".
Example= (0 Deck & .041" Felpro gasket) or (.025" Deck & .015 " shim gasket) or (.015" Deck & MrGasket .025" gasket) or (.015" Deck & GM .028" gasket)
Some of the Rams Horns manifolds had 2-1/2" outlets, most are smaller. You could get the Ceramic coated headers for better looks & longer life. They will give better performance & fuel mileage compared to the Rams.
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Old 03-03-2009, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ricolala
i have a old stile edelbrock eps intake for old style original heads.
whar heats should i use?
i have the original camel hump heads but the must be restored.
i will go with good aftermaket alu heads

how much intake runners should i use?
is the edelbrock perfomer head to big?
64ccm chamber
2.02 1,60 valves
intake runner 170ccm
exhaust 65ccm

trick flow hat small heads with
56ccm chamber 1.94 1,50 valves
175ccm intake
65ccm exhaust runners.

i have dual exhaust with stock ram horn manifolds
( i will use the 283 ram horn manifold. i there a different to the 327 ram horn manifolds?) i dont like the look of headers

the cam is crane blueprint 327 300 hp lift .390 /.410 duration @.050
195/202 rpm 800-4500

what heads should i use. do someone built a motor like this??
i like to use 10,5 :1 compression .
i use premium fuel 95 octane.
The Edelbrocks are NOT too big. They would work fine. Nothing wrong with a good set of camelhumpers either. If you have them reworked @ a machine shop you could have a good set of heads for about $300.00-400.00 (in the states). You should do some pricing of your own, things could be significantly different in Germany reguarding costs of different heads. ??
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