Swaped out carb and got rid of spacer engine still has issues. - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2010, 06:13 PM
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Thanks custom10 for the support. I am next week going to get a transmissoin pan put on my truck and ditch the leaking one and will be checking my plug wires for ohm resistance.

I put my vacuum gauge back on and got a hose running inside my truck so I can see how it does during the week. The needle was fluctuating earlier today and now it was holding steady and smooth at 16 inches and engine runs nice and strong though no problem there its just the engine will not want to run smooth at idle and during lower rpm it will drive without issues but you can tell its missing here and there.

I don't have a nice warm garage to work in so working on it soon will kind of be on hold till next spring I just want to get it going good for winter. Take care
Eric

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Old 10-11-2010, 06:16 PM
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Well guys I was thinking today and after yesterday testing with things I am curious it seems my engine does not like anything less then 14 degrees initial timing and at least wants a 800 rpm idle in park.

It seems anything less and the engine is not happy and is very lazy but what I guess has me confused is my cam is only 260/270 212/218 @50 with 510 lift and its a lunati voodoo style with a very fast ramp rate and would that have anything to to with it?

Was talking to my Dad who has built hundreds of chevy motors and he feels it should run with less timing then that and he feels putting full manifold vacuum advance added to it is too much for it.

I respect everyone who has built many engines over the years but it seems from my experience and with my gained knowledge that my engine runs more better at idle with full manifold then without. I also had my stupid throttle cable get stuck on me today and I about had a heart attack there I had to quickly turn it off.

Engine runs the same cruising wise with no difference but I know full or ported work the same off idle.

With only my initial timing I had to crack my primaries open a little more and I opened up my secondary's too to help let some more air in and looking under my butterflies there is a black band around the barrels somewhat and it seems it is running somewhat rich at idle that way.

I had very little of my transfer slot exposed but it was about .040 but I started to have the dieseling again.

From my point of view my engine does better with full manifold vacuum advance added to my initial timing at idle and allows my engine to idle cleaner or am I just dreaming? I have read countless articles on ported vs full and don't want to get into a discussion there. I also had the casting plug sweat gas on the rear bowl so I am getting a new one to replace it.

So what do you guys thinking about the timing? I see people with similar size cams like mine running less with no issues.

He feels like my cam is not that much bigger then a stock and should be around 8 to 10 but engine does not run well there and readjusting my carb for the proper idle speed it runs really crappy and just chugs and revving it causes a very weak response. Thanks guys
Eric
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2010, 07:10 PM
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So what do you guys thinking about the timing? I see people with similar size cams like mine running less with no issues.

He feels like my cam is not that much bigger then a stock and should be around 8 to 10 but engine does not run well there and readjusting my carb for the proper idle speed it runs really crappy and just chugs and revving it causes a very weak response. Thanks guys
Eric
If I am not mistake'n I think you just answered your own question, nothing wrong with that as you know the source real well give it what it wants.
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Old 10-11-2010, 07:18 PM
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Did you installed this cam advanced, and it was it degreed in?
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 10-11-2010, 07:28 PM
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sputter

You could possibly have 1 or so valves jyst a bit to tight, it's real easy to do and will run a bit rough just off idle because it has a very slight vacumn leak or the sputter could be as simple as setting up the accelerator pump a bit but that has nothing to do if it idles a bit rough , I would pull the covers and reset valves at least you can rule it out.
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Old 10-11-2010, 08:17 PM
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My 355 with flat tops and a stock 300 hp camshaft runs best at 14 deg initial timing and manifold vacuum . Gotta give it what it likes .
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Old 10-12-2010, 03:44 PM
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Yeah I know its nothing carb related I just put a different one on and it did the same thing. I am going to check plug wires this coming Sunday and if that does not do anything I will recheck valve lash.

I got a mechanics stethoscope and will listen very closely to my rocker arms and see if some maybe off which can cause the issue I am having. Also yes cam was degreed and its 6 degrees advanced.

I also will be keeping my engine at 14-16 degrees initial and be hooking it back up to manifold vacuum because it runs the best there and allows my carb to work better as well with out having my transfer slot exposed too much and gets rid of the dieseling issue I have on the occasion when I just run initial timing.

I crack open my secondaries as much as I can without exposing the secondary transfer slot and still my primaries will end up open too much for an 800 rpm idle with just running initial timing. The holley carb 1850 600cfm model has a very lean idle circuit.

The carb does work awesome though on my truck. I put in the purple spring and man I can spin my tires clear up to 5000 rpm in first and second gear and will it fly. If I can just get rid of my spit and sputter at idle and lower rpm's I will be doing good. Thanks guys
Eric
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