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Old 01-28-2007, 09:43 PM
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Sway Bar and Wildwood Brake Question

What should have been a very easy install, has turned out to be very frustrating....It appears that the four bolts as pictured in my journal...about 2-1/2 inches in length ( I did not take time to measure) are far too long for the wildwood mounting brackets...

Can anyone tell me what I need? I've got an email in to TCI, but based on recent experience I don't expect an answer....

Also, the sway bar shaft ends are threaded and would appear to be designed for a stop bolt/washer.....Can anyone tell me what's missing. The bracket housing, aluminum arms, heims, and all linkage are in place as you can see in journal pics,,,,but the end of the shaft has a center thread that would seeminly have a stop to keep it from moving in the event an arm got loose.

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Old 01-28-2007, 10:06 PM
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Hi Joe, what exactly are you working on? I see from your journal that the fronts are put together. And it appears that the brackets are already mounted on the rear. Are you looking for the bolt size that mounts the caliper to the bracket? Which calipers are you using?

The wilwood website has some good pics also. Here is a link to a pdf of the big bearing ford dynalite disc installation kit

http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/ds124.pdf

I'm just guessing that is the kit you are using. Let me know which one it is.

IIRC the sway bar is drilled for a bolt that goes in from the end.

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Last edited by powerrodsmike; 01-28-2007 at 10:12 PM.
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Old 01-28-2007, 10:12 PM
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Hope you didn't scar up the Bee's paint too much taking it apart. Looks like the chassis manufacturer doesn't have anybody on staff with the skills to put together simple concise and easy-to-understand well-illustrated instruction sheets for their own mercahndise. I guess that's cause only pros use their parts, huh?

You seem to be doing a great job there so the Grandkids will be happy happy happy in just a while. Don't let 'em down.
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Old 01-28-2007, 11:58 PM
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For the anti-roll bar:
-Remove the end link
-Remove the spherical rod end (aka Heim) from between the axle tabs
-Discard the steel spacer between the axle tabs (it was just there to keep you from burning up the spherical rod end)
-Thread the right hand thread spherical rod end shank into the end link being sure it is in as many turns as the left hand thread one. Don't forget the jam nuts on the shanks of both. A good starting place is all the way in and then 3 turns out. That should give you plenty of room to adjust and also have as much thread engagement as possible.
-Bolt the top of the end link to the outboard side of the anti-roll bar arm with the head of the bolt outboard and the threads pointing inboard
-Bolt the bottom of the end link between the axle tabs
-After having the body on and tires on flat ground adjust the end links so there is no tension in them. Otherwise you will be pre-loading the anti-roll bar...which might be good for the drag strip but should be minimized for a road car.

Did you use the bolts for the calipers in some other location (i.e. mixing up the hardware above)? You might just have to go out and buy some bolts of the proper length.

Last edited by Triaged; 01-29-2007 at 12:21 AM.
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Old 01-29-2007, 12:05 AM
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I didn't notice he had such a good pic of that sway bar link in his journal. Good one, Triaged

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Old 01-29-2007, 08:53 PM
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Caliper Install

Thanks power Mike for the heads up on the caliper bolts....Don't know why I didn't think to check Wildwoods website...

Check out the caliper pics I just posted....

Is it normal on Wildwoods for the cups that push the pads in to be recessed as pictured? I'm used to having to press them out to get the pads over the disc....These just slide right over...Am I lucky or is this just Wildwood?
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Old 01-29-2007, 09:02 PM
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That's how they come, all recessed like that.
When you bleed your brakes they come right up.

Did Triaged get you straightened out with that swaybar?

(He helped me out a great deal with a really short driveshaft in a 34 coupe one time. worked great )

Mikey
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Old 01-29-2007, 09:05 PM
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Anti-Sway Setup

You know I actually started to leave the spacer out as the directions said that they were to be used on a 32....but they seem to fit so nice that I left them in.....I will yield to experience as I'm sure you have a reason.

Also appreciate the setup instructions, as the directions did not offer much help other than saying to make both sides uniform.

Now I'm a little puzzled by the folloiwng, "Bolt the top of the end link to the outboard side of the anti-roll bar arm with the head of the bolt outboard and the threads pointing inboard" Is this not the way you see it installed. As a matter of fact the arms are recessed at the top on the outboard side. I think it's right, unless your seeing something....

As for the caliper bolts, I'm going to check one more time, but I just have not seen where I could have used them elsewhere.

What about the bolt that threads in the end of the sway bar....Is it a hex head type with a large flange or have a washer. It would be useless without something that covers the end of the housing to keep it from shifting. You mentioned a certain brand...perhaps I can find it on the web....Thanks for the help....This being my first build, it seems I can't turn around without having to ask the simple questions....

Do you think it possible to build a car over the internet?

Thanks again guys....your help has been phenominal....

And Passedena: I can't give up....My wife will never let me start the 32 highboy, I have dreams about....

ps...Just out of curiosity....Would it be possible or practical to use my old 36 frame on a 32 highboy? It's rusted through in a couple of places which is why I bought a TCI for my coupe, but since the roadster would be more of a rat rod, perhaps the old frame would make a good welding project....

Last edited by joeford; 01-29-2007 at 09:21 PM.
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Old 01-29-2007, 09:24 PM
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Sway bar follow up

Powerrod: I think so, I did post a reply just to make sure I understood some of the instructions....but I can tell...he's been there and knows his stuff....


As for the calipers, I figured they would, I just think it is so neat....The Wildwoods look to be a top shelf product....
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Old 01-29-2007, 09:44 PM
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JoeFord.....as a 2 time owner of TCI chassis ('32) I can tell you 2 things about them, 1st. they make a very, very strong tig welded chassis that will last forever.....2nd. Their customer service is THE WORST !!!!!!
You probably won't get an email answer, its hard enough to get an answer when you talk to them by phone. When I got my new chassis and started putting it together for mock up and inventory I found I had 2 of the rear 4 bars for a '32 and 2 for a 28-31. Also the rear aluminum anti sway bars were too short, they make 9" ones for coil overs and 11 1/4" for Air ride tech. bags that the chassis was made for.
Anyway I called them and splained my problem, Their answer "oh, well send 'em back", I said ...you guys paying for shipping, their answer " hey it was just a mistake". It gets better....I get the parts back and they sent me the same 9" sway bars that I had sent them!!!! Unf------believable !!! If you need to call ask for Sal, he's the VP of operations........Good luck with your car, once done it will be a good driver.........Dave
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Old 01-30-2007, 12:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joeford
...Now I'm a little puzzled by the folloiwng, "Bolt the top of the end link to the outboard side of the anti-roll bar arm with the head of the bolt outboard and the threads pointing inboard" Is this not the way you see it installed. As a matter of fact the arms are recessed at the top on the outboard side. I think it's right, unless your seeing something...
It looks to me like the end links would be at an angle if they were to be put inside the axle end tabs and on the inside of the anti-roll bar arms. Maybe it is just the angle of the picture throwing me off If the arms are made to have the end link on the inside then do it that way; however you might need to move the axle end link tabs inboard to make the end links vertical...then again it might just be my eyes fooling me.
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Old 01-30-2007, 06:26 AM
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A little tip if you have the polished Willwood calipers. What ever you do, do not tighten the bleed screws very tight. All it takes is just a slight snug tighten. Anything else and they will bind and the next time you try and bleed the brakes they will snap off. Ask me how I know this . I now have a spare Willwood polished caliper with a broken off bleed screw to the tune of $175. Yes I tried to use a screw extractor to get it out, all that got me was a broken screw extractor stuck in the broken bleed screw. I did notice that all their other calipers have a brass fitting that actually goes in the caliper first then the steel bleed screw goes into it.

Vince
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Old 01-30-2007, 08:31 PM
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Caliper Bolts

Triaged, Look what I found (see journal)....You were right....I had stored those bolts so I would not mis-place them....I think that's an oxymoron...

Thanks for the help....I'll be checking the sway bar setup before the weekend....you mentioned something about right hand threads versus left hand threads, that has me thinking I may not have paid any attention to this and it may relate to an adjustment issue I was having....
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Old 01-30-2007, 11:06 PM
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The end link tube should have one end tapped right hand and the other left hand. You should then have 2 RH & 2 LH rod ends and jam nuts. That allows you to adjust the length of the end link without having to remove it.
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Old 01-31-2007, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 302/Z28
A little tip if you have the polished Willwood calipers. What ever you do, do not tighten the bleed screws very tight. All it takes is just a slight snug tighten. Anything else and they will bind and the next time you try and bleed the brakes they will snap off. Ask me how I know this . I now have a spare Willwood polished caliper with a broken off bleed screw to the tune of $175. Yes I tried to use a screw extractor to get it out, all that got me was a broken screw extractor stuck in the broken bleed screw. I did notice that all their other calipers have a brass fitting that actually goes in the caliper first then the steel bleed screw goes into it.

Vince
Vince,
While I didn't suffer the same broke bleed screw problem, I do have to agree with you. Wilwood uses a sealer on the bleed screws (Loc-tite). I pulled my bleed screws out to install the one-man EZ Bleeders (NICE STUFF) and thought that I was going to break one. This is dissimilar metal as well. I also think they have a 400 pound gorilla with a 24" breaker bar installing the bleeders. The non polished rears came out as slick as .... you get the picture.

Dave
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