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Old 09-11-2005, 11:39 AM
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Switching Rearends. Need Driveshaft Information

I'm going to be switching out my rearend in the near future and I want to know what I will need to do (if anything) about switching from a Chevy rearend to a Ford Rearend. Will my current drive shaft just bolt back up to the Ford rearend? Will I need to get anything changed? Thanks for the info ahead of time. I tried searching for the information, but came up empty handed.

Josh

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Old 09-11-2005, 01:47 PM
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NOT ENUFF INFO! What year, model Chev- What model Ford rear????
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Old 09-11-2005, 03:45 PM
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More information.

The truck is a 53 Chevy 3100 Truck with a 350TH Transmission. The rearend in the truck currently is out of a 56 chevy car of some sort according to the casting number.

After searching a little bit about axle lenths, I think that I'll be putting a Ford 9" rearend out of a 73-86 Bronco in the truck.

Sorry to be vague earlier. I should have included the information.
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Old 09-11-2005, 05:04 PM
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Two problems you're going to run into. One is the rear "U" joint and the other is the length.

It's impossible to tell what the length difference is but I suspect that you will have to have your driveshaft lengthened or shortened a bit to fit correctly. I can almost guarantee you'll have to have a Ford "U" joint mount installed at the rear of the shaft as well.
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Old 09-11-2005, 10:02 PM
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That's about what I was thinking

Thanks for the information Centerline. What does it take to change the U joint? Do I just take out the drive shaft and take it in to someplace or can I cut the end off and weld on the new one?

In cutting the original driveshaft, is it hollow or solid? Could I use the end of the driveshaft off the donor vehicle and cut it and weld it on the new one when I have the exact dimensions?

Does someone make custom driveshafts that aren't an arm and a leg? As a student, it's tough to do all this on my meager budget.

Josh
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Old 09-11-2005, 10:09 PM
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I changed one on a 79 Malibu. The drive shaft worked ok as is. It stuck out of the tranny about an inch more than it did before. You do not need to be hacking at your drive shaft. You "simply" buy a Ford-GM combo U joint.
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Old 09-12-2005, 11:56 AM
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U-joint Conversion

Thanks for the information. I don't know why I didn't think about an adapter U-joint. Where might I be able to pick one up? I flipped through Jegs and Summit and didn't see anything. I also didn't pull anything up under Google, but I really don't know the name of the peice I am looking for. Thanks ahead of time for the advice. It is much appreciated.

Josh
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Old 09-12-2005, 03:42 PM
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Just called a local shop...

I just got off the phone with a local driveline shop and they said that they can change out the rear section of the driveshaft for $65 (parts and labor for cutting off the old and welding on the new). That's not a bad price. They said that they can get the adapter U-joint if I would like, but they said that it would take them a little bit to get in and they were around $45 instead of $15 for the standard U-joints. We'll see what I end up with.

Josh
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Old 09-12-2005, 07:34 PM
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Having a professional shop do your driveshaft is the ONLY way to go. They will shorten or lengthen it to the correct dimensions and weld on the new Ford "U" joint as well as balance it when they're done. Usually costs less than $120 and it's worth every penny.
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Old 09-13-2005, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAHamilton
I just got off the phone with a local driveline shop and they said that they can change out the rear section of the driveshaft for $65 (parts and labor for cutting off the old and welding on the new). That's not a bad price. They said that they can get the adapter U-joint if I would like, but they said that it would take them a little bit to get in and they were around $45 instead of $15 for the standard U-joints. We'll see what I end up with.

Josh
$45? That's Rediculous!

Try some circle track stuff I buy em all day at $20 from moog with next day shipping.
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Old 09-13-2005, 11:19 AM
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Looks good....

Johnsongrass:

Thanks for the post. Looks like I might be able to get the rearend in for a lot less money if I just swap over the U-joint from the link you posted.

When I find the rearend I want and can take some measurements, I'll figure out if I can get away with a U-joint swap or if I am going to have to have it lengthened or shortened. I'll cross my fingers and hope that it's about the right length.

Thanks again man.

Josh
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