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Old 03-26-2012, 02:42 AM
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T-350 DIY, final qs

I've read alot about the TH350 and now think I understand this.. I'm trying to rebuild my TH350 (blown seal and needs work) to handle my 454.



Here's the plan so far and any questions about them:


H.D direct drum and 36 element sprag. A given..

Dual feed. Thats the inner seal that's removed from the direct drum piston? I read the wiki but he just says the seal seperating the two halfs..

Direct piston machined for extra friction and steel (found a source for one ready to go I think..)

Drill 2nd feed to .125" and 3rd .125"-.140". I could just drill em both .125 and be fine? Or should I go slightly larger for the 3rd feed?

Will be using a front planet for a late model (for the roller instead of washer).

Splitting a low reverse friction and stuffing it into the intermediate piston cavity. Do you do this no matter what? Or just if you find your indermediate clutch clearance loose? I don't see where you would measure that clearance so I'm thinkin its just somethin you should do..


Finally the part I'm most unsure about... The 2-3 accumulator. How do you know how long to cut the pipe? My C6 I just threw a #8 nut on top of the existing spring, kinda pre compressed the spring. What way would be ideal?


Also what about the servo for the band? Is there a certain one I should get? Example is my C6 the one that clamps the most is the R code servo..


Greg

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Last edited by ekacpuc; 03-26-2012 at 02:52 AM.
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Old 03-26-2012, 03:42 PM
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No one huh?
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Old 03-26-2012, 03:55 PM
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The direct seal you remove is the center seal....the one that is IN the drum....you use both seals on the piston....and you also eliminate the wavy cushion plate in the drum,and use a flat steel in its place,if you weren't aware of that.

Last edited by rick 427; 03-26-2012 at 04:03 PM.
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:01 PM
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Is it the only one in the drum itself? Last trans I had open was a C6, seems like there was one seal on each drum.


What's he mean here:

you would have wanted to install additional sun gear bushings, 2 on each end, and re-drilled the lube holes.


Hows he know where to redrill the holes?
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:08 PM
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there are small oil feed holes in the sun gear,just below each bushing..be careful not to put the bushings in too far, as they will block the holes ...adding 2 bushings per side will block the holes and require drilling the holes in the sun gear,and thru the bushing...a single bushing on each side is good enough in my book......and there are 3 seals..2 on the piston,and one in the drum...leave the one in the drum out.
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick 427
and you also eliminate the wavy cushion plate in the drum,and use a flat steel in its place,if you weren't aware of that.


That's what I did for my C6, it let me run an extra friction and steel instead of a silly wave plate. Same thing here? Or is it, wave plate then friction then steel then friction, litterly just swaping a wave plate for a steel?

I've got a DVD that supposedly has this info in it... We'll see.
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:15 PM
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yes,but you still have to machine the piston for an extra clutch...and be sure that the piston isn't machined too much,as it will cause the first steel you put back in the drum to get hung up in the lower lip of the drum......no wave plate...flat steel,clutch,flat steel,clutch...etc.

Last edited by rick 427; 03-26-2012 at 04:21 PM.
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:25 PM
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Got it, just swapping a wave for a steel. I'll prob end up mock assembling with 4 clutches and measure endplay then I'll send my own piston in to be machined for an extra clutch with any slop accounted for.


Last one for now.. 150 PSI relief spring a good idea while I'm in there? That's part of what I did to my C6, wasn't sure if it'd be overkill on the TH350.

Oh one more, I see a front pump with a torington gear instead of a thrust washer. Could I use that (does it matter if mine used a thrust washer originally)?
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:28 PM
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ya lost me...pressure reg spring?
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:35 PM
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Yeah, I see for the valve body a pressure regulator spring that's rated at 150 psi. Would increase line pressure.

http://tsr-racing.com/shop/TH350/val...ies+Components


Greg
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:54 PM
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wow..11 bucks for a spring....sorry,i'm old school...I used to put a 3/8 washer behind the large end of the original spring if I was out of shift kits...the trans didn't care..but yes,you need to get a spring like that one....... .125 holes in the plate are good..you can go .140 in the 2-3....and you could lose the 2-3 accumulater spring also [behind the cover in the case]...I never put them back in,and i've never had one come back with the cover beat out,,altho you could put a blocker rod in place of the spring if you want......and yes,you could put a bearing in place of the pump washer,but just remember that you will prob pull the pump out once or twice to adjust end play.
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:17 PM
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btw...if you are going from a washer to a bearing front planetary,you have to get the bearing type planetary ring gear and hub also....your washer type hub will not work with a bearing planet.
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Old 03-26-2012, 09:50 PM
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So about the pressure reg spring.. Just a little 3/8 washer is enough to boost the pressure? I like...


Had planned on cutting a piece of pipe to slip in place of the 2-3 accumulator spring. Dunno how long to make it though, maybe I could find one pre made.


I'll leave whatever uses a thrust washer alone.

What about splitting and placing a low/reverse friction in the intermediate piston cavity? Says it'll clean up the 1-2 shift. I could do this no worrys?


Also intermediate servos, is there a certain one that applys more than the others?
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Old 03-26-2012, 10:25 PM
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Also the rod inplace of the accum spring right? I'm trying to hold the piston open, not compress the spring right?


Greg
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Old 03-26-2012, 10:54 PM
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I've never done the split friction mod....other guys have tho....I was allways happy with the 1-2 shift with the things I allready mentioned....but see'ing how you haven't built many trans's.. you should get a shift kit for your trans,if for no other reason,to get all the right springs the kit gives you for the right calibration to go with the holes you'll be drilling,which in turn, reduces shift overlap...A 350-1-2 kit from transgo is a good kit, is about 45 bucks,and you also get the pressure reg spring in the kit...think about it....sure, I sometimes used a washer or 2 in the pressure reg,but I have built about 1000 more 350's than you have,and I know by working the PR valve what is the right tension i'm looking for in different apps....I don't recommend anyone else doing it,but i'll leave that up to you.....and yes,the accum spring is in the garbage can,ya don't even need the rod,really....and whatever servo came out of the trans,goes back in.thats keeping it simple.

Last edited by rick 427; 03-26-2012 at 11:01 PM.
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